Wanted: Pics of Lower 4-link Uppers Inboarded on a 40

[Sputnik40]

Thanks Woody. Appreciate you're digging thru your files for the pics.

 

[woody]

my heims are 5/8 bore 3/4 thread QA-1's...EXMR series....haven't replaced one in 4-5 years, tho my lower 1/2" wall links have a bend...

my lowers are splayed more than in those images now, to the outer ends of the axle tube....IIRC, 1/2" rear steer at full travel...

 

[Radd Cruisers]

my heims are 5/8 bore 3/4 thread QA-1's...EXMR series....haven't replaced one in 4-5 years, tho my lower 1/2" wall links have a bend...

my lowers are splayed more than in those images now, to the outer ends of the axle tube....IIRC, 1/2" rear steer at full travel...

Ya, you look at those pics and it looks like you would get a buntch more rear steer than you mentioned.

 

[woody]

pic from early Dec in Attica....you run my numbers thru the 4-link calculator and the results confirm the minimal rear steer

 

[Mace]

The long, flat lowers really do a good job of minimizing rear steer. It is the abrupt angle changes that create most of the issues..


Short lowers like bob has make rear steer a much bigger deal..

 

[Mace]

And sorry amigo, I have been ignoring the 40 for too long. I'll get pics in the daylight this weekend when I am putting the turbo back together

 

[Eskimo]

I'm assuming your rear axle is almost a couple of feet back the stock location?

Also looks like you just triangulated your links with no angling at the mounts.

It's probably not that far back. I can still see where the stock spring hangar riveted to the frame, I could measure it.. but most of my stretch is up front. the centerline of the front axle is basically under where the OEM radiator would be.. (I'm at 110" WB now)

All the frame-side mounts are angled, to minimize the angle on the joints.. The upper brackets are the 22° ones, and the lowers are a little less than that. The axle mounts, being just tabs, were angled as well.

 

[Sputnik40]

Thanks Rich. Yeah - I've ordered those 22 deg upper mounts from RS - and most of the link brackets - and spares so I can explore different options.

Angle I was trying to refer to was - not the triangulated angles as you would imagine from plan (above) viewpoint - but where some folks also rotate the mount to reflect the arc of the movement it makes in relation to one links other end. Sorry - I'm not sure what this is called or how to describe it?

Have been looking at different rod end and joint brands for pricing and value. So far I've found several folks who sell the QA1 heims - same or similar to what Woody referenced, and am also looking at the non-clip style JJ or RE - including those sold by Ballistic (the smaller 9/16 bore versions). Ballistic also sells the link material I want - and with South Florida having stupid silly prices for metal - sometimes it's cheaper to go north or just pay shipping. 2" x 0.375" lowers - and 1.5" x 0.250 uppers, using inserts and 1" shaft heims/or JJ.

Same goes for shocks - but am going to wait until I have everything squared away with all the links first.

No worries - will have tons of questions in a month of so.......

 

[R.K.]

Here's a pic of the my rear crossmember that all 4 links mount to.

Here's another shot that might show the angles a little better.

And this one shows the angle of the links.

 

[Eskimo]

Angle I was trying to refer to was - not the triangulated angles as you would imagine from plan (above) viewpoint - but where some folks also rotate the mount to reflect the arc of the movement it makes in relation to one links other end. Sorry - I'm not sure what this is called or how to describe it?

OOHHH, now I understand what you mean!!

At ride height, my links are basically in the center of their operational range, so that's where they're setup. There's enough misalignment on the joints so that they don't max out.

You mentioned the different joints... one thing to consider... RE's/JJ's have a little "give" to them because of the bushings that surround the ball, and it really helps smooth out the ride. Heims obviously don't have this. I rode in an all-heim rig and it was pretty harsh... mostly the front is what you seemed to feel the worst.

I'm very happy with the forged Johnny Joints, and the price was certainly right when I was buying 20 of 'em. Not sure if I'd bother with LH and RH if I did it again..

 

[Sputnik40]

Thanks R.K. I posted those pics earlier on my NFC thread - my preference would be to copy you - but it's difficult with the offset output hanging down - you're flat and centered. That and you don't have a rear frame - which I'm open to - it's just that with limited time and funds I'm tired of being heckled for missing runs...

Eskimo - thanks, I just didn't know how to describe it and don't think I have a need for that type of angling.

STUPID QUESTION of the Day - I don't like using bushed dom ends (from other experience) - can anyone comment as to how streetable you'd consider a 4-link with JJ/RE/BF type joints at the frame - and the same or heims at the axle??? I'm not talking highway stuff - but I plan to continue driving this to the pub and around town with speed at least up to 55 or more on occasion???

 

[Mace]

It'd be fine..

I have no issue doing that with mine at all.

 

[TURNMEOVER]

Thanks R.K. I posted those pics earlier on my NFC thread - my preference would be to copy you - but it's difficult with the offset output hanging down - you're flat and centered. That and you don't have a rear frame - which I'm open to - it's just that with limited time and funds I'm tired of being heckled for missing runs...

Eskimo - thanks, I just didn't know how to describe it and don't think I have a need for that type of angling.

STUPID QUESTION of the Day - I don't like using bushed dom ends (from other experience) - can anyone comment as to how streetable you'd consider a 4-link with JJ/RE/BF type joints at the frame - and the same or heims at the axle??? I'm not talking highway stuff - but I plan to continue driving this to the pub and around town with speed at least up to 55 or more on occasion???

Yeah dont factor in any more work. You have already missed 6 months of runs and a frame chop would mean another year. Pilot has already concured all of your hills and named some of his own.
come on get it together already.

 

[Sputnik40]

Yeah dont factor in any more work. You have already missed 6 months of runs and a frame chop would mean another year. Pilot has already concured all of your hills and named some of his own.
come on get it together already.

I've been wheeling nonstop since 98 (including a complete 2F rebuild after blowing a piston 5 weeks before GSMTR - didn't miss it) - I've got no problem with a little downtime. It's painful to see ya'all having some good fun, lots o drink around the campsite, etc. but fact of the matter is - I have too many other hobbies. I'll be back eventually - but want this project done right without worrying about rushing things. Maybe I'm getting old .

See you in St. Auggie next weekend. Linda and I are stoked to be able to manage time to get up to party with ya'all, visit my former college roommate and his wife/kids - and hopefully get some better surf than we've had down here these past 4 weeks.

 

[Sputnik40]

It'd be fine..

I have no issue doing that with mine at all.

Thanks for following along and providing feedback. Very much appreciated. Will continue shopping for best prices for joints at all ends. PP or BF is my preferred - and am sticking to non-clip style per prior recommendations.....

 

[Mace]

Cheap is good. Like I said, I went with the forged JJ on my 60 just because I like the threaded shaft and it was stupid cheap..

I actually was looking at my rear suspension today on the 40. There is no way it would work with an offset Tcase. The doubly triangulated links almost hit each other as it is..