vibration after 2-3" lift (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 31, 2018
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Location
California
I recently installed OME lift springs on my 80.

2" inch up front and 3" in the rear so it's level under load. Everything is perfect under load, but when I'm light, I get vibration on the highway decelerating between 60-70 mph. I'm assuming its one of the drive shafts just out of its ideal angle. Also assuming, given that load resolves this, it is the rear shaft. I re-greased both shafts before my last outing, but the issue continues.

Not sure what what I can do to resolve. Unlike larger lifts that include spacers, extensions and adjustable panhard rods, there isn't any equivalent for this small a lift. I did replace the front control arms with ones from Super Pro in AU, that incorporate the 4' caster adjustment, and they're working perfectly.

Any insight would be welcome. I've included a picture in the guise of supporting details, but clearly just vanity.

20201023_102859.jpg
 
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When you did your lift, did you have your driveshafts apart for any reason? If so, the shafts are phased and balanced and have to be put back exactly like they were, with the front and rear u-joints of each shaft in a specific relation to each other.
 
If you have a CDL button, take your front driveshaft off and lock the CDL and drive around with it like that at highway speed. I bet your vibe goes away. You may need to get a double Cardan shaft to solve the vibe. Slee, Tatton, Tom Woods all offer options. You should search the 80 section. This would have received more responses there as well.
 
Thanks Matt, I don't. It's a '96 so the CDL is engaged when placed in Low. Regardless, I'll try isolating the issue by removing the front shaft as you suggest.
Easy enough.
 
There are a couple other ways you can do this. You can plug the hazard switch into the cdl switch location, or you could shift into low, pull the cdl fuse after the cdl is locked, and it will stay locked until you put the fuse back in. Without the cdl locked you won’t be able to go anywhere with either driveshaft removed.
 
I'm grateful for your help, but that's simply not true. I have driven without the front and back impellers on numerous occasion over the years.

Further research revels that this is likely related to the rear castor and resolved with adjustable upper control arms.
 
Ok, I may have overstated it a bit. I’d be concerned about overheating the center diff if driven for an extended period or at high speed/heavy load with a driveshaft missing. I’d rather just lock it and be sure to not be causing any issue.
 
I appreciate you spending the time to help. I'll update after the control arms are installed. Fingers crossed.
 
Replacing the rear upper control arms with adjustable ones completely resolved this. I installed MetalTech 4x4 adjustable and made them 3/8" shorter than factory. I had to remove the locknut to get this done, as they only permitted 3/16" adjustment with it on.
 
Final Post:
I installed sway bar drop shackles in the rear and a panrod drop bracket from Delta
Tracking is a lot better now. No more rear steer!

There was still some vibration up front after I installed the control arms from SuperPro.
I resolved this by purchasing a double-cardan front drive shaft from Tom Woods in UT
I also added drop brackets to my sway bar and new bushings.
It's not perfect, but pert near.

All I wanted was bigger tires! A cautionary tale!

Hope this helps someone else.
 
Final Post:
I installed sway bar drop shackles in the rear and a panrod drop bracket from Delta
Tracking is a lot better now. No more rear steer!

There was still some vibration up front after I installed the control arms from SuperPro.
I resolved this by purchasing a double-cardan front drive shaft from Tom Woods in UT
I also added drop brackets to my sway bar and new bushings.
It's not perfect, but pert near.

All I wanted was bigger tires! A cautionary tale!

Hope this helps someone else.
You should post in the 80 section as an FYI for the guys who insist on lifting their 80 strictly for aesthetics/mall cruising.
 

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