Venturing into rarefied air - 2" body lift

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r2m

r2m

Richard
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Threads
69
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8,435
Location
San Clemente, CA
I'll be attempting a 2" body lift on my Hundy in a couple of weeks, or when ever I finish my reseach.
Here's the plan so far:

1. Material: 2" O.D. UHMW Polyethylene rod.
Supplier: McMaster-Carr; $17.12/ft (10 mounting points X 2" each = 2 feet needed)

2. 2" over stock bolts to replace the existing body mount bolts. Supplier: McMaster-Carr; exact price and length TBD

3. Cut the fan shroud in half, horozintally, re-bracket and move the lower half down 2 inches to allow fan clearance and keep flow.

4. Turn and cut threads (lath) on some stainless steel round rod for a 2" extension for the transfer case shifter and knob.

5. Determine the bolt pattern and length for the steering rod.

So what I'm asking here is:
1. Does anyone has a bolt pattern for the steering shaft to bolt the extension in between? And hope beyond all hope, does any know the length that would be needed fit in there for a 2" lift?

2. Does anyone know the stock length and thread size of the mounting bolts and are all 10 bolts the same in all aspects?

3. Am I missing anything????

I am aware of the notch on the factory bolt washer for self gripping when tighting. I will probably TIG a small bead on a new washer and TIG the washer to the bolt to accomplish the same.

When this is completed I will share, but it'll cost you guys!
Cost to you the MUD community: Some wheeling and storie telling round a camp fire...
 
I guess I just have to ask, why 2in? why not the 1 in setup that Spressoman sells (or you could make)? are you worried about how your bumpers and sliders will fit in relation to the 2in BL?

I am sure that 1in will eliminate all rubbing with 35's.....unless you are going bigger? IF that is the reason, COOL, take some pics....

Good luck with whatever you do with the truck...
 
I believe even Spressoman is/has contemplated a 2" lift to further reduce rubbing in extreme articulation angles. I don't think I plan on running any larger tires than the 35"s.

Spressoman: are you out there? Care to chime in?
 
1" BL + 285/75R18 (GY MT/R; Toyo OC AT;YMMV with different brand/model) + 10mm wheel spacers (front) = No rub

The only thing I'd like to experiment with is raising the motor and tranny to gain precious (at least for the trails I run) 1-1.5" clearance between the axles; however the subsequent steeper driveline angles (rear is my biggest concern) is tempering my enthusiasm for this project...

Somewhere in the 2-3" body lift range might net you the ability to run 37's but this size tire opens up a much larger can o'worms
 
THERE you are Spressomon! I was hoping you'd join in.
Here's the deal:
I have:
- 17x8 wheels with 35" KM2 MT
- 2.5" suspension lift (TB's, springs and shocks) from Just Diff's
- Upper Control Arm, also Just Diff
- BumpIt Offroad diff drop

I'm getting quite a bit of rub, not at lock to lock, but in compression on the fender, and so far just in the front.
 
bamabrock said:
What about opening the fender?
Click to expand...

I've been looking into that also: Eastwood Fender Roller | Fender Roller Tool | Auto Fender ? Eastwood Fender Rollers

Or perhaps making my own fender roller using a skateboard wheel for the roller. But I'm not sure I can flare the fender out far enough to cover my tires per the pics of my rig.

Ok. I was waiting for my entire rig to be finished before posting any pics of it, but here are my new wheels and tires to give an idea of my clearance issues.
Read two posts above for the components I have on now.
This is just a sneak peak mind you...
20120604_123554.webp
20120604_123620.webp
20120604_123528.webp
 
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Spressomon, are your fenders trimmed?
has anyone trimmed their fenders on this site?
If so, any tips and photos of the finished product?

That is another direction I'm thinking of going to gain a little more compresson space.
 
Those tires look huge. I've seen 35s on a 100 but that looks like an Artic truck.... I've wheeled with 100s too and never seen a person have rubbing at the top of the fender. Maybe on some high speed whoops but that's about it. It looks like you will need to take of quite a bit of that pinch weld area behind the tire also...what about the rear? What size bump stops are you using to keep those tires out of the tops of the wheel wells? Those tires look really big!
 
There was one guy on here that trimmed his fender. I believe he was in OZ...

You have several things factoring into your rubbing issues (wheel width, new wheel offset, oem front bumper, etc.). I know you like those wheels, but man they push those way out! With my stock rims, 295 tires, and 1 1/4" spacers I never came close to being that far out.

The easiest solution would be the 1" body lift and then trimming the fender.

Oh here is the fender trimming post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/516514-nates-down-under-build-8.html#post7397294
 
spressomon said:
1" BL + 285/75R18 (GY MT/R; Toyo OC AT;YMMV with different brand/model) + 10mm wheel spacers (front) = No rub

The only thing I'd like to experiment with is raising the motor and tranny to gain precious (at least for the trails I run) 1-1.5" clearance between the axles; however the subsequent steeper driveline angles (rear is my biggest concern) is tempering my enthusiasm for this project...

Somewhere in the 2-3" body lift range might net you the ability to run 37's but this size tire opens up a much larger can o'worms
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, I was on my creeper this weekend rolling around under my rig doing a survey of the situation, and I don't think you can do a drive line lift more than 1/2". There's a crossmember right above the back end of the transfer case and propeller shaft and there's only about a 1" clearance between the propeller shaft and that crossmember.
What might be done is to lift the motor about 1.5" and raise the tranny about .5" - .75". Doing that would also help align the angle of the drive shaft from the rear diff to the tranny, since your tipping the back of the tranny in a downward angle.
 
Last edited:
I can't find the pic right now, but I've seen a Japanese lift kit that includes a stabilizer/brace of sorts that keeps the lift pucks perpendicular to the chassis. It's a brace that spans between two pucks, keeping them upright. Looks like it might be important for a 2" lift as you don't want them to fall like dominoes out from under the body during an extreme maneuver or accident.
 
I would think that as long as the diameter of the puck is greater than the height of the puck, one should be OK.
 
I was supposed to get under my Hundy and do a full suspension compression to see if I really need a 2" lift of if I can get by with less lift (and hopfully not more). But... the the sun was out and the surf was good, so I went surfing all weekend. ;)

I'll post when I do the full suspension compression and see exactly where I'm rubbing and how far till I hit my bump stops. I'd love not to have to go to a 2" body lift if I don't have to.
 
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