Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What you guys do to mount your spare 35" ... ?
Check it last weekend and between 2.5" - 3" was needed to clear the door and bumper .. my rear door will not be happy for sure with the extra weight and extra leverage ..
You can try flipping the tire carrier over, it works for a 33” but I kind of doubt it works for a 35”.
I have a spacer from an FJ Cruiser that will work but that moves the leverage out.
Cheers
Well overdue upgrade ( well upgrade in my books )
I can confirm that our guess / investigation ( yours ? ) @cruiseroutfit was correct, new spindle was required in order to upgrade .. stock spindle it's too short ..
Swap it's pretty much straight forward .. open, replace spindle, and assemble it all again. I use the trail-gear nut-lock washer setup instead of the factory star washer setup. Adjutst it to 28lb-in.
I did this as a peace of mind project since I don't trust in the auto hubs and in the hope to clear my new tire/wheel combo ..
There is ongoing debate on the stud orientation. If putting the long thread into the wheel hub will help clear the wheels, do it. Otherwise I’d get the wheel openings machined.
It is better to have that wheel lip machined.
Regarding the spare tire, flipping the carrier is an option. The inner structure on the rear door is sturdier than it looks. However, it is better to get a Kaymar rear bumper, complete with tire carrier.
Long story short .. they send me a 300 kg spring pack set ( got a Dobinson Sticker on it .. but it's not listed on their site ) which was a 8 leaves spring pack .. crazy. Call them Sunday night ( morning for them ) and Mitchell said, fresh, remove 4th leave.
I got to admit I'm used to the spectacular customer service I usually get in USA - OffRoad world .. maybe I'm used to deal with awesome folks around this forum / community and outside here it's not so good .?
I promise a short story. End with a rear OME med that give me a more leveled stance which it's my target ..
I also stay away from FB. How have you found LCOOL? I imagine that would be the best for VDJ7* info. I used to be there most of the time, but the 70 series forum of what used to be mostly HZ and HDers got overrun with VDers, so it is no longer that useful to me. it also lost many people to FB.
I use these (the 5 and 10 relay types) and a few of the different littlefuse boxes and think they are a great system, practically the best if you like wiring it yourself. For even greater space savings you see those relay-less box and 'one-wire' fancy multi-button displays things now becoming popular, but I still prefer building my own system with switches in different places i can feel in the dark without looking.Little help here .. I'm looking to do electrical add on as clean as possible and what I have in mind it's something like this no more fuses here and relays everywhere ..
appreciate your thoughts about this ..
one thing to bear in mind when dealing with oz from our part of the world, be very conscious of the time you send your emails. try to aim for around 9-10 am their time (6-7 pm our time), otherwise your email gets overtaken at the top of the list overnight and may be never read in busy inboxes. The time difference is an issue, but yes, in general, aussies really aren't big on customer service compared to the USofA... very laid back is another way of saying it.I got to admit I'm used to the spectacular customer service I usually get in USA - OffRoad world .. maybe I'm used to deal with awesome folks around this forum / community and outside here it's not so good .?
Initial very lame flex ..
I think the best way to improve flex is to remove Sway bards/fabricate sway bar disconnects. Not the safest for city/highway driving but can be compensated with good 2.5" adjustable shocks (King, Fox)
Use parabolics rear leaf springs and make sure that all shocks have enough down travel (could be a limiting factor)
congrats on the 76!
I also stay away from FB.
How have you found LCOOL? I imagine that would be the best for VDJ7* info. I used to be there most of the time, but the 70 series forum of what used to be mostly HZ and HDers got overrun with VDers, so it is no longer that useful to me. it also lost many people to FB.
I use these (the 5 and 10 relay types) and a few of the different littlefuse boxes and think they are a great system, practically the best if you like wiring it yourself. For even greater space savings you see those relay-less box and 'one-wire' fancy multi-button displays things now becoming popular, but I still prefer building my own system with switches in different places i can feel in the dark without looking.
one thing to bear in mind when dealing with oz from our part of the world, be very conscious of the time you send your emails. try to aim for around 9-10 am their time (6-7 pm our time), otherwise your email gets overtaken at the top of the list overnight and may be never read in busy inboxes. The time difference is an issue, but yes, in general, aussies really aren't big on customer service compared to the USofA... very laid back is another way of saying it.
Awesome 76!
On your flex, the coil 70 series are notorious for bad flex in the front. Unfortunately, there isn't much that can be done about it. We tend to find that even some of the old leaf sprung trucks have better flex.
Sorry to hear about your problems with superior engineering, they aren't really known for great customer service. However, i wouldn't say that is the case with all aus companies.