Valvecover Bling

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Joined
Jul 12, 2007
Threads
90
Messages
2,104
Location
Gilbert, AZ
I have 99% of the parts needed to get my engine back together. One part has to come from Japan and won't be here until May 11th. What to do?

Boredom + powder coating =

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I like it... I should as I too enjoy what Robbie aka Powderpig named my "Lip Stick Red" valve cover. It's amazing what one does while waiting for pistons, or in your case parts from Japan.


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Actually yours was the inspiration for me to use "fire engine red" for my vc. However, mine is "official" and yours isn't :flipoff2:

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Nice touch... I debated grinding off the red on the raised lettering before I installed mine. After seeing yours, I wish I had. It looks good.
 
Those look great guys. Red seems to suit the mighty 1FZ. I like the oil-pan too, looks schmicko! :cool:
 
LOL, I was just thinking about doing this a few days ago.... same color and all. Looks sweet! nice job.
 
Sometimes is good to be bored!:cheers:
 
Man, That looks good. Super Charger on the other one?
 
Man, That looks good. Super Charger on the other one?

The SC is just for looks. The red valve cover is where the power comes from. Add a "1FZ-FE" sticker and you're pushing 400+ HP. YMMV :hillbilly:
 
pulling this old thread up from the dead. Got my 1fz in parts on my garage floor. Thinking about powdercoating lots of it. Thinking the front timing gear cover, engine mounts (to engine), brackets. How about intake?
 
Any concern that heat from powdercoating will warp it and cause it not to seal properly?
 
Most powdercoating gets parts to 400 degrees. Here is what the interwebz says.....

Powdercoating is a process where a power is electrostatically stuck to metal then baked on. The baking procedure is done at around 390°F, the melting temperature for 6061 is 985°F and the annealing temperature for 6061 is 775°F for 2-3 hours. Unless you drastically mess up the cure cycle on powdercoat, you're not going to even touch the temperature where the aluminum structure changes. You might get into a precipitation hardening temperature, but you'd need to hold 320°F for 12 hours or more to see a difference.
 
We recently had our VC off for repairs, and our son thought we should do a Japanese Rising Sun kind of like what is attached except red backgound with white overlays (opposite color scheme of attached) I think you do the powder coat in a couple layers, then a clear top coat.....Cool idea, just didn't have the time.

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I use pwd coating for work and I recently did my spare wheel.
I asked about annealing and was told oven is 400 degrees for 45 Mins.
I pay $40 per wheel and it's $10 if they have to sandblast.
Thinking of having all mine done in gloss black when I rebuild front axle.
Kinda hate to pay $20, to have a tire removed to have it put back on, but it is what it is.
 

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