Valve Stem Seals. Workbench or Shop?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

IBFJ62

IBFJ62

10 Year
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Threads
33
Messages
457
So, I'm having to follow up on an earlier issue of not getting oil up to the valve train. Problem solved, but it looks like I cooked the valve stem seals when it wasn't oiling up there.

Is replacing the seals a workbench fix, or do I need to drop the head off at a shop and just have them do it. I've got the seals, and would need to pick up a valve spring tool, but getting the head off isn't a big deal. Advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
Actually, for you gasser driving fellas, this isn't too difficult a job. Remove spark plug, insert rope into cylinder, use spring compressor tool to remove valve keepers, remove springs and replace seal. I did my seal using the compressed air into the cylinder method, which isn't terribly difficult but you have to have a good compressor to maintain pressure in cylinder so valve does not drop in when replacing seal. Other than that, I think it's a one banana job, and can be done with engine in car. That's how I did mine. Good luck, hope others chime in.
 
procedure for the compressed air method.
 

Attachments

Mongoose, which spring compressor tool did you buy? I bought a Lisle, nice tool but it didn't work for me, I had to make one. Might save IBFJ62 some trouble.

Also, I was pretty freaked out by using the compressed air method, I imagined one bump and down goes the valve. Well I actually had the pressure go off on my first cylinder while I was reinstalling the spring, and the valve started to slip down (at which time many gray hairs sprouted spontaneously out of my head) but it wasn't like a rabbit down a hole. Reassuring, isn't it?

I would also say that you would do well to take a few measurements and decide how far down the seals should be on the guide when fully seated. I didn't and because at least on the 2F the seals fit tight enough on the guide that you can't really tell when that fragile-looking seal is seated by feel only.

But I only got through 4 of the 12 before I found that my head was cracked. So off it came.:crybaby:

That's my $0.02 HTH and good luck!
 
bugger about the cracked head. the seals on the 2h diesel seat with a snap of sorts. you can feel them when they are properly seated. I was also worried about the compressed air method but it worked out fine. I ended up rebuilding the whole engine and found a slightly bent con-rod in there. re-did the seals then again on the bench.
 
bench job. I can't bring myself to buy a spring compressor, because, levers are easy. dammit. now I have to go build a spring compressor tool...the seal job is easy with the head off...easy with the head on, too, but I'm chicken. just do ONE VALVE AT A TIME, and you shouldn't have more than a couple spare parts left over:hillbilly:
 
oh yeah, make sure to smack the top of the valve stems after reassembly with a ball peen a couple times to make sure the keepers are set. not too hard, but not soft at all, and dead on.
 
This gives me hope. I was wondering if it could be done with the head still on, I just replaced all the damn gaskets a couple months back when I was chasing the no oil thing and had the head off.

Ok mongoose, what's up with 'insert rope into cylinder'??

I've got a decent compressor, so it sounds like this can be done. Sweet. How are you guys getting the compressor hose to fit the spark plug hole?

I'm all ears if anyone has suggestions on how to not give myself more gray hairs, plenty of those already.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
bench job. I can't bring myself to buy a spring compressor, because, levers are easy. dammit. now I have to go build a spring compressor tool...the seal job is easy with the head off...easy with the head on, too, but I'm chicken. just do ONE VALVE AT A TIME, and you shouldn't have more than a couple spare parts left over:hillbilly:
Click to expand...

Damn, I had to go get myself at least one more beer when I was putting the valve rockers back on the rod, I could have sworn I had them all lined up the way they came off...

When I rebuilt my 22R, I had one extra bolt, and one extra nut. Neither fit each other..
 
those little things are full of hidden fasteners! OMG for such a tiny engine, there was alot to learn. I get to do mine over again, cause I forgot to do the bottom the first time around...I got 2 months out of it:doh:
 
IBFJ62 said:
This gives me hope. I was wondering if it could be done with the head still on, I just replaced all the damn gaskets a couple months back when I was chasing the no oil thing and had the head off.

Ok mongoose, what's up with 'insert rope into cylinder'??

I've got a decent compressor, so it sounds like this can be done. Sweet. How are you guys getting the compressor hose to fit the spark plug hole?

I'm all ears if anyone has suggestions on how to not give myself more gray hairs, plenty of those already.
Click to expand...
u buy a compression check gauge from jegs, at least thats what i did. i needed one anyway. it comes with fittings. the rope method is more archaic. you insert the rope inside the cylinder through the spark plug hole and that prevents the valve from falling inside the cylinder.
 
That was good stuff, thanks for posting that. I've collected a spring compressor and the fitting to screw into the spark plug hole for the compressor line, now I just need the time to actually do it.. So pissed with myself that I didn't take the time to do this while I had the head off a couple months back. :bang:
 
CuCruiser said:
I don't know if this is really very helpful or not, but here's a little video I did when I was dissecting my ex-cylinder head. Shows the spring compressor I made and how to do it. Pretty easy really.
Click to expand...








I'm going to link this to the homemade tools thread, if you don't mind. Excellent tech!!!
 
Glad to help. I was kicking myself too for not having a valve job when I replaced the head gasket...until it cracked. Silver lining I guess.
Let us know how it goes!
 
Ok, mission accomplished! No more smoke cloud on start up! My back is still sore from saturday, and I'm still kicking myself that I didn't do this with the head off, but I now know more about my engine than I did last week.

Here's my tips for anyone attempting changing the valve seals with the head still on:

1) Universal Harbor Freight screw down thread compressor worked just fine. I'm sure there are better options, but it worked. $12 on sale

2) Napa had the spark plug adapter for the compressor hose $6 (even though the numbnuts working there said they didn't carry it..) You'll need a thread on nipple end for your compressor hose to attach to.

3) The short intake springs are tougher than the exhaust (they have 2 grooves on the retainer and sit down lower, exhaust has 1)

4) Before you do a set of springs (2 per cylinder as you've got it pressurized), give the top of the spring a rap with a 3/4"-ish socket on an extension to loosen up the retainers. They'll probably be locked up, and this frees everything up so they can be removed when you compress the spring.

I will confess that I pussed out and didn't do the #5 and 6 Intake valves, they were just too much of a bitch on my back leaning back there and trying to add extra compression and dick with the retainers..

Thanks for the tips!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom