Valve spring (1 Viewer)

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The power steering pump is at the front of the engine, immediately adjacent to the timing chain cover. This is most often the source of a ticking sound, due to a nick of the gear teeth on the pump driven gear. This is often a result of poor handling when rebuilding the pump.
 
The power steering pump is at the front of the engine, immediately adjacent to the timing chain cover. This is most often the source of a ticking sound, due to a nick of the gear teeth on the pump driven gear. This is often a result of poor handling when rebuilding the pump.
Wait is the power steering pump on the timing chain? Or are you talking about the internal gears.
But its not the power steering pump because it’s already at the stage of howling on cold start and I can hear the howling and the ticking
 
Wait is the power steering pump on the timing chain? Or are you talking about the internal gears.
But its not the power steering pump because it’s already at the stage of howling on cold start and I can hear the howling and the ticking
The PS pump is driven off the crankshaft, with the oil pump drive acting as an intermediate.

It can howl and still tick. Two different ailments.

Mark...
 
The PS pump is driven off the crankshaft, with the oil pump drive acting as an intermediate.

It can howl and still tick. Two different ailments.

Mark...
That’s a stupid design in my opinion. Makes a simple power steering pump become a job that’s a little more tedious. Can I do the power steering pump without major surgery
 
when you check your valve clearance there is a chart in the fsm that you can use to figure out the new correct shim size. you can still order them from toyota or since i believe it is the same shim diameter for toyotas of that vintage you can go to a pick and pull and get shims from whatever toyotas you find on the yard.
 
That’s a stupid design in my opinion. Makes a simple power steering pump become a job that’s a little more tedious. Can I do the power steering pump without major surgery
Take a look at the FSM... or simply your engine. The merit of the approach is debateable, but not becasue of replacement concerns. It is a very easy job to change out the pump.

Mark...
 
That’s a stupid design in my opinion. Makes a simple power steering pump become a job that’s a little more tedious. Can I do the power steering pump without major surgery
I'll make sure to pass that along, then next time I consult with Toyota engine design.
 
You might want to download the serivce manual from the Resources section, as I suggested before, and familiarize yourself with the truck, especially the engine, before your offer any other pronouncements on the design.
 
There's service manuals you can download in the RESOURCES section in the forum menu.

Take some time to read through it and look at diagrams, get familiar with this engine.

If you've had other engines apart, you should learn a lot by flicking through the FSM, using youtube, and reading here.

I find the toyota manuals pretty detailed on most things.

There's nothing about these vehicles that hasn't been discussed in Ih8mud sometime in the last 20 years.
There's almost always a thread relevant to whatever issue you have, and often good pictures too.
Search, and search again with different keywords. Use google to search within mud too.

You want to learn about these vehicles, all of the above will help
 
Don't insult toyota landcruiser engineers or there engineering lol

Well, Toyota did not get *everything* right. But I am gonna have to give more consideration to how they decided to design things than I will to the opinion of someone who thinks that there are rocker arms in a 1FZ, doesn't know what the oiling paths are and expects to hear grinding from the camshafts. ;)


Sorry, OP, nothing personal, but... seriously? ;)

Mark...
 
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There's service manuals you can download in the RESOURCES section in the forum menu.

Take some time to read through it and look at diagrams, get familiar with this engine.

If you've had other engines apart, you should learn a lot by flicking through the FSM, using youtube, and reading here.

I find the toyota manuals pretty detailed on most things.

There's nothing about these vehicles that hasn't been discussed in Ih8mud sometime in the last 20 years.
There's almost always a thread relevant to whatever issue you have, and often good pictures too.
Search, and search again with different keywords. Use google to search within mud too.

You want to learn about these vehicles, all of the above will help
Alright. I’ll do that. Thank you
 
Does the FSM have all the factory specifications. I have access to mopar service library which should give me it and also snap on shop key pro which will for sure give me specifications.
I have access to micrometers,dial indicators, etc. I’ll be able to check valve out of round and check the clearance of everything.
Also note: generally, wear will create a tighter clearance. Which will then necessitate a thinner shim. Moreover, that tighter clearance is less likely to be the source of a ticking noise - assuming it's somewhat close to specification.

Because of the above, on a rebuild I'd suggest using shims that achieve a touch more gap, while still staying within specification
 
Well, Toyota did not get *everything* right. But I am gonna have to give more consideration to how they decided to design things than I will to the opinion of someone who thinks that there are rocker arms in a 1FZ, doesn't know what the oiling paths are and expects to hear grinding from the camshafts. ;)


Sorry, OP, nothing personal, but... seriously? ;)

Mark...
Yeah. 17 still learning my crap.
I’m not doubting the engine. It’s probably the most bullet proof engine right next to the 3.4, I mean the heads alone are close to the size of a 6.7 Cummins head
And as far as the grinding on a cam, I’m talking about a ceased roller which will cause a grinding noise.
But best way to check and see what could be bad without surgery is to do my oil change look for extensively glitter and send in an oil sample. Will give me an idea if it’s valves, power steering pump, etc.
 
Also note: generally, wear will create a tighter clearance. Which will then necessitate a thinner shim. Moreover, that tighter clearance is less likely to be the source of a ticking noise - assuming it's somewhat close to specification.

Because of the above, on a rebuild I'd suggest using shims that achieve a touch more gap, while still staying within specification
I’m not understanding about how wear will create tighter clearance. Wear on the shims sure. But wear everywhere else will cause a looser clearance which In turn causes noise. Tighter clearance is generally caused by a bad rebuild
 

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