Valve Cover Gasket leak

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Thanks all. I finally got around to cleaning it up and snugging the bolts down. Pretty simple. I got carried away with Purple Power an went on a rampage in there. 3 rolls of paper towels, and a few gallons of water and my engine bay looks a little better. 12 years of road usage and 6 years of heavy duty offroad and deep mud took its toll. Some parts I did not want to clean. I honestly think Toyota designed the wiring and tubing to be Impossible to work with. I have never seen anything like it. Anyways, that's about as clean as its going to get...
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I wonder if mine looks like bad .... I hate that Ga red MUD !
 
yeti in ga said:
I wonder if mine looks like bad .... I hate that Ga red MUD !

Only way to get rid of it is to replace the part... get some pictures up from today.
 
Man, that looks like a bad, really bad engine bay. You might want to put it on some treatment program or else the dirt/grime will haunt you going forward.

Here is a recent response from Robbie at Toyota Trails (re engine cleaning)-
Much of this is common sense, but it's good to start with the basics sometimes...





" I have always felt that low pressure water would not effect most connections in a Land Cruiser. Heck they have been designed to handle water crossings and other such conditions. So one of the best things to use is simple green or the equivlant. I have seen where some of these water based cleaners have discolored Aluminum bits, so it may be best to test your cleaner you choose to use on a small area first to see the results first. All the electronic's under the hood of a cruiser are good to go, except for models with distributors. One would want to make sure these are covered up with a bag before washing(but your 100 does not have a distributor). All the connectors under the hood have a O ring seal and should keep out water (but not high pressure blast, water will pentrate the seal under HP water). Most if not all the sensors are sealed against fluids and air. So I would not worry much about them. Water cleaning out the alternator is not a bad thing, even medium pressure (like out a water gun on a low pressure hose). This can actually have a good effect on the alternator, especially after a muddy encounter of the bad kind(one where the Alternator quites working, this is usually from dirt getting between the brushes and the commutator).
Water washing out the radiator and the condenser is a good thing as well, again I would only use low to medium pressure to get the job done. If you need more pressure, it may be better to remove the radiator to clean it, rather than using high pressure and bending over the fins.
I may also be necessary to remove any belly pans under the ending to aid in cleaning(all depends on what needs and how much stuff needs to be removed).
Any engine that does not have good sealing around the spark plugs and some other vehicles with coils that do not have good sealing, I would cover these with plastic as well.
Then when all done, before moving very far, I would start the engine and allow it to idle for a couple of minutes, then rev the engine to see if all is well. I may even hold a high idle(3-4k rpm) for a minute of so, to blow out all the water from around stuff , this will also allow you to see if all is working well.
In the case of a alternator not working after a mud run. I have taken alternators out of rigs, used bucket of water to clean out small rocks and such from all areas of the alternator after some real bad mud runs. Water will not necessarily ruin a alternator.
Hope that helps. "
Robbie
 
I do plan on cleaning it soon. It's gotten pretty bad. Unfortunately that is what happens when you live in the deep south. If you wheel like a poser you have nothing to worry about. If you wheel hard, this is what your engine bay will look like. I bought "Purple Power" and it will take a heavily caked tube and turn it nice and clean in a matter of minutes. I may spray the entire engine bay in sections and pour warm soapy water on it as well. Then rinse and dry. Thoughts?


(oh, you should see my underside :lol: )


Man, that looks like a bad, really bad engine bay. You might want to put it on some treatment program or else the dirt/grime will haunt you going forward.

Here is a recent response from Robbie at Toyota Trails (re engine cleaning)-
Much of this is common sense, but it's good to start with the basics sometimes...





" I have always felt that low pressure water would not effect most connections in a Land Cruiser. Heck they have been designed to handle water crossings and other such conditions. So one of the best things to use is simple green or the equivlant. I have seen where some of these water based cleaners have discolored Aluminum bits, so it may be best to test your cleaner you choose to use on a small area first to see the results first. All the electronic's under the hood of a cruiser are good to go, except for models with distributors. One would want to make sure these are covered up with a bag before washing(but your 100 does not have a distributor). All the connectors under the hood have a O ring seal and should keep out water (but not high pressure blast, water will pentrate the seal under HP water). Most if not all the sensors are sealed against fluids and air. So I would not worry much about them. Water cleaning out the alternator is not a bad thing, even medium pressure (like out a water gun on a low pressure hose). This can actually have a good effect on the alternator, especially after a muddy encounter of the bad kind(one where the Alternator quites working, this is usually from dirt getting between the brushes and the commutator).
Water washing out the radiator and the condenser is a good thing as well, again I would only use low to medium pressure to get the job done. If you need more pressure, it may be better to remove the radiator to clean it, rather than using high pressure and bending over the fins.
I may also be necessary to remove any belly pans under the ending to aid in cleaning(all depends on what needs and how much stuff needs to be removed).
Any engine that does not have good sealing around the spark plugs and some other vehicles with coils that do not have good sealing, I would cover these with plastic as well.
Then when all done, before moving very far, I would start the engine and allow it to idle for a couple of minutes, then rev the engine to see if all is well. I may even hold a high idle(3-4k rpm) for a minute of so, to blow out all the water from around stuff , this will also allow you to see if all is working well.
In the case of a alternator not working after a mud run. I have taken alternators out of rigs, used bucket of water to clean out small rocks and such from all areas of the alternator after some real bad mud runs. Water will not necessarily ruin a alternator.
Hope that helps. "
Robbie
 
IH8MUD pretty much sums it up:hillbilly:

lol. Do you think my method would work? There will HAVE to be scrubbing and all that. A pressure washer can't get this fu:censor:ng s:censor:t off...

" I may spray the entire engine bay in sections and pour warm soapy water on it as well. Then rinse and dry. Thoughts? "
 
You might just keep hitting it with simple green or the purple stuff you mentioned 1 or 2x per week to see if the dirt will break loose over time.

I am sure there are some more powerful cleaners out on the market, but I am not familar with many.
 
Mine went at 143 and the part was in the $50 range, but could be a bit cheaper. My leak was a bit more rapid and I could definitely notice the oil smell...
If you have a burning oil smell and a slight leak under the front axle, that's your warning.
But it might be wise for us to detail all the possible leak areas on this as it is a common thing for LC's above 120k..
 
Our passenger side gasket started to leak at the rear at 195K miles. I just finger tightened the bolts and all is well.
 
Have the same issue on both sides at 165k. Strangely, I can only get it to drip when the engine is just turned off. I have stared and stared but have only been able to actually see two drips.

With regards to cleaners, simple green is decent, but I am lucky to have a local shop here that makes all their own cleaners and detail supplies for autos.

This is what I use:

http://www.majesticsolutionsinc.com/purchase-page/cleaners-degreasers/red-max

Is stuff is instanely strong, has to be mixed with water. But I like I can make it as strong or as weak as I like. Use this stuff for everything and it seems to last forever because I use so little when mixing.

Back to the VCG, just thought I would mention my leak to not start until I switched from Dyno to synthetic.
 
Thanks all. I finally got around to cleaning it up and snugging the bolts down. Pretty simple. I got carried away with Purple Power an went on a rampage in there. 3 rolls of paper towels, and a few gallons of water and my engine bay looks a little better. 12 years of road usage and 6 years of heavy duty offroad and deep mud took its toll. Some parts I did not want to clean. I honestly think Toyota designed the wiring and tubing to be Impossible to work with. I have never seen anything like it. Anyways, that's about as clean as its going to get...
View attachment 590566View attachment 590567View attachment 590571
A can of spray foam tire cleaner will have that looking like new in short order.


...via IH8MUD app
 
Are all the Vcg bolts easy to get to? I can't find my universal socket drive. Do indeed one or does a straight extension get them all?
 
Are all the Vcg bolts easy to get to? I can't find my universal socket drive. Do indeed one or does a straight extension get them all?
Yep, easy to get to. I found a plain old ring spanner most useful to get to some of the lower row bolts which can be best accessed through the wheel well, just pop off the plastic inner guard trim. If you have AHC stick it in H or jack the front a couple of inches for even more room.
 
Thanks for the report. I had a very similar leak to OP's pictures. I could smell the burning oil as they dripped onto the exhaust manifold.

The valve cover gasket bolts on the passenger side were finger loose! quick tighten before work and no leaks so far 40+ miles later.

this forum rocks!
 
Guys just wondering if the gaskets a gone will they leake towards the bottom of the engine on to the bash plate cover you can remove with bolts .
 

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