Valve Adjustment

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wesintl said:
Drew, If you need some help one day let me know. For a first timer adjusting valves by yourself it can get frustrating trying to get it right with the adjustment and locknut. I's alot easier if you have Stacy willing to help with tighening while you hold the adjustment and feeler.:beer:
Click to expand...



Thanks Wes,

I have done it on my cruiser several times, I was just wondering if I am missing out by not having one of those specific tools.

Thanks man!
 
Update: I now have a couple of pics that show what I've been talking about regarding valve seat recession. Unfortunately for me, they came from my cylinder head, which I had to pull off my 40 earlier today!:eek:

Pics are in this thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=518221

Difference between the high seat and the low seat is over 1/16th inch!:eek:
 
Are those both new valves? Your pictures don't 'document' anything unless both valves are identical and one of yours looks like the victim of too many grindings in an attempt to economize.

It'd be a pretty crappy machine shop to install valve seats in a way that would allow seat "recession" - in fact I can't really imagine it. Seats are not moving parts; they are installed into a ground recess by shrink fit and if correctly done they don't move. Where would they go? If your theory is correct then valve seats should eventually grind themselves right into the water jacket. Absurd.
 
Honk,

Sounds to me like you have better machine shops in your area than most.

I've had trouble with valve seat installations on many occasions over the years with machine shops here in DC, I alluded to that in my earleir post.

In fact, every time I build an engine I find at least one problem, large or small when blue printing.


From:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/eb40332.htm

I
nterference?
The recommended amount of interference between the valve seat insert and head may vary depending on the size of the insert, the type of insert (alloy or powder metal) and type of head (cast iron or aluminum). The best advice is to use the amount of interference recommended by the OEM engine manufacturer.
​
Too much interference runs the risk of cracking the head while too little interference increases the risk of the seat coming loose or falling out. One of the leading causes of seats coming loose, however, is not the amount of interference between the seat and head but elevated operating temperatures. Anything that causes the exhaust valve to run hot may also cause the seat to loosen.​

Same article also refers to seats being difficult to machine as I also refered to.

Good read.

-Stumbaugh
 
Get this, I just ordered the blue (.20mm) and the light green (.35mm) from Wurth and they said the .35 was discontinued due to lack of sales. No .35mm in stock anywhere.
 
Wow...










Guess I am the cheap guy...
Feelergauge02.webp
 
Looking at the Manual on Mike's site

http://www.root45.com/F Engine Repair Manual 1966.pdf

It states 10 for intake and 14 for exhaust.

Are you guys talking about the 2F engine? I am working with a F Engine from 71. The manual is for a 66 F.

Any insight on this would be appreciated. The truck is warm and ready to be tuned.

Also, should you have the timing completely perfect before doing this task? The reason I ask is because I just slapped this engine in and the timing is probably within 5% of being perfect.

Thanks
 
Mikesta said:
Looking at the Manual on Mike's site

http://www.root45.com/F Engine Repair Manual 1966.pdf

It states 10 for intake and 14 for exhaust.

Are you guys talking about the 2F engine? I am working with a F Engine from 71. The manual is for a 66 F.

Any insight on this would be appreciated. The truck is warm and ready to be tuned.

Also, should you have the timing completely perfect before doing this task? The reason I ask is because I just slapped this engine in and the timing is probably within 5% of being perfect.

Thanks
Click to expand...



Mikes site is for the F135....early stuff.


Your 1971 would be .008" and .014" just like all the rest.
 
Poser said:
Mikes site is for the F135....early stuff.


Your 1971 would be .008" and .014" just like all the rest.
Click to expand...

Thanks Poser!
 
Gauge connection...

My 2 cents…

I used to set valves with the engine running, only problem was the feller gauges would get beat down and you needed to frequently replace them. Not to mention you need to be on level ground or there would be some oil drip off of the head. The adjustment with the engine off is much easier and cleaner.

A question, where would be the best place to attach a hose for a vacuum gauge???

Thanks,
Jerry D.
 
German Engineering

Gents - good thread,
I did my valve clearances last weekend and the rockers are a bit noisy. It was actually quieter before I adjusted them, but I know none of them are too tight.
Will do it again.
Meanwhile, a fellow cruiser owner who happens to be a German engineer and long experienced with cruisers (not limited to the 2F engine) started a discussion.
He maintains that each valve needs to be adjusted independently - the TDC mark on the flywheel is not necessarily the "sweet spot" for all valves.
He also mentioned this is inherant to 2F's only.
He is an international guy and said he picked up this tidbit from the best cruiser mechanic he ever knew.
It takes considerable more time to check the clearances at, before and after the TDC mark to verify.
I didn't do it the last time, but I thought I would mention his theory.
 
I just adjusted a friends valves on his 82 FJ40 today.
Brought the rig to operating temp, pulled the cover and set engine to TDC. Adjusted appropriate valves, rotated engine 360* and adjusted those valves.
Started engine and checked, while running, all valve lashes. Some were real good some were real needy to be reset. I re-adjusted em while the motor was running and she really smoothed out good. I then set to adjust the fuel mixture and this rig was saying thanks! She purrs like a kitten and roars down the highway like no other :D
I didn't break any fingers, tools, or even have to cuss :cool:
Next is my 40. It is noisy :crybaby:
Just thought I would share my experience here.
Thanks for all the tips and other real info shared here.
Happy New Year to all!
Danny
 
Finally got to the 40 today. The valves were in need of adjusting. Rig runs smoother now and there is still valve train noise. I know the valves are adjusted right so no worries here. Calico, here we come. I need a stencil like Marks now! :D
Danny
 
so..... since it's been run 5,000 miles since I got my junk a year ago, and it now sounds like a diesel I should get this done.

What does an engine that needs a valve adjustment sound like?

Mine, at idle, no kidding sounds like a diesel. running 15/40 rotella.

I will try to get to it this weekend, but as usual, this site has me concerned over something I probably shouldn't be.
 
I've only adjusted valves one time so far...and w/the engine hot but off. How do you do it w/it running? I can't imagine getting the feelers in there w/the valves clicking away...I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but, to me, it seems difficult. And, once you get the gauge in there, how can you accurately determine the "pull" of the feeler while it's moving?
Thanks in advance for setting me straight!
 
1phrogguy said:
so..... since it's been run 5,000 miles since I got my junk a year ago, and it now sounds like a diesel I should get this done.

What does an engine that needs a valve adjustment sound like?

Mine, at idle, no kidding sounds like a diesel. running 15/40 rotella.

I will try to get to it this weekend, but as usual, this site has me concerned over something I probably shouldn't be.
Click to expand...

Anyone?
 
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