valve adjust running or not (1 Viewer)

[forestdan7]

I've never adjusted valves before, so mainly I'm looking for moral support. You all make it sound easy enough that I can't justify paying somebody to do it.

I searched and read a lot of threads on this topic.

It looks like the consensus is to adjust the valves with the engine off. That's also what the Haynes manual says to do.

But I just got a copy of the Toyota 1985 Maintenance Procedures manual ($10 from SOR), and it says to adjust 'em at idle. The Chilton manual says the same thing.

It does seem like doing it with the engine idling would be easier, since you wouldn't have to find TDC and all that.

But am I going to get oil everywhere, and get my shirt caught in the belts?

Any help appreciated.

Oh, and should I use gasket sealer on the new valve cover gasket, or go dry?

Thanks.

 

[sportbiker929]

engine off. you would have to have some pretty fast hands to do it running.

Mitch

 

[brian]

it depends, are you smogged or de-smogged?
if you're de-smogged, then engine running.
if your idle is set right there will be very little mess.
the rockers do not get that much oil, just a little trickle.
you do need help though, one to run the wrenchs and one to run the feeler gauges.
doing it running gives you better results.....or so i feel. it does however beat up your gauges.
a 2f cools off so quick.
there for awhile i was doing them running, the last few times with it shut off. the adjustment does'nt seem to last as long for me when done shut off.


and if you don't wear loose fitting clothing when working on/around machines, you won't have anything to get caught in stuff.

 

[Tinker]

If you've never done this before on any car, OFF.

If you're a throwback masochist, ON.

Being the latter, you know what I did. Hardest valve adjustment I've ever done (by myself, I might add).

 

[RIQUE]

Hey Forest Dan,

It seems this is your absolute first time. You can never adjust
the valves with the engine on on any engine period.

The 2f and 3F engine valve adjustment is a pain in the ass.
I would really advise you get a pall to help out. You will need
you partner to either drive the fealer gauge or adjust the nut.

Engine must be warm so mechanic glove help a lot. I use a
a spaner on the crank nut and remove all plugs to turn the
engine easier. I also use a bend-a-lite flash light to look into
spark plug hole to check when piston is at TDC.

Let me know if you need more info. Rique

​

 

[cruiser88]

ive done mine running and shut off.just did my 62 running.what ive found in doing it was i do a cold setting.but i always go 2 thousands over on the cold.then i do a hot while running with a partner of course.i might check it hot 2 or 3 times to make sure i have it right.do your self a favor duck tape your sleeves to keep them out if you wear long sleeves.and when your done throw away the feeler guage.its not accurate anymore.ive spoke with alot of master mech. about doing this while running and they laugh in my face.saying there is not difference,well the same one also burnt my valves,did not take my advice and had to eat the money.ive done my own ever sence

 

[Cruzerman]

No way would I try it with the engine running. I like my fingers too much.
__________________
Cruzerman
'85 FJ60
'78 FJ40

 

[cruiser88]

if memory serves me right the shop manual on 1970 fj40 even says do it running.but that is second hand information from my father

 

[cruiser88]

No way would I try it with the engine running. I like my fingers too much.
__________________
Cruzerman
'85 FJ60
'78 FJ40

it is a bitch

 

[PAFJ]

Here's a good write up by JimC on adjusting valves..




http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/valves.html

 

[FJ40Jim]

I know I shouldn't allow myself to get sucked into this debate.

Of course the valves are adjusted with the engine off. RTFM.

2F engine manual
Pub #98126
Page 3-17

"Set #1 cyl. to TDC, align timing mark.

Adj. clearances indicated by arrows (picture indicates 1,2,3,5,7,9).
Clearance (HOT)
intake .20mm
exhaust .35mm

Turn crankshaft 360deg and align timing mark.
adjust remaining valves indicated by arrows (picture indicates 4,6,8,10,11,12)."

The Chevrolet manual from 1955 truck 235CID 6cyl. says the same thing.

 

[forestdan7]

Thanks everybody.

I don't have TFM yet. Next paycheck.

Based on what you all say, I'll be doing this engine off.

I'm hoping this'll cure the slight stumble and the dieseling. PO says it got a complete tune-up 11,000 miles ago. I wouldn't think the valves would be this loud that quick.

But then he also said he'd have it detailed before I picked it up.
I'd rather have it running good than clean.

 

[PAFJ]

I know I shouldn't allow myself to get sucked into this debate.

LOL My bad Jim, I threw you under the bus!! I used your write-up the first time I did my valves, it made more sense of it then the manual did.

 

[FJ40Jim]

LOL My bad Jim, I threw you under the bus!! I used your write-up the first time I did my valves, it made more sense of it then the manual did.

I was Pushed!

 

[sportbiker929]

Master Jim has spoken, It now should be a dead issue.

Thanks again for your qualified input.

Mitch

I know I shouldn't allow myself to get sucked into this debate.

Of course the valves are adjusted with the engine off. RTFM.

2F engine manual
Pub #98126
Page 3-17

"Set #1 cyl. to TDC, align timing mark.

Adj. clearances indicated by arrows (picture indicates 1,2,3,5,7,9).
Clearance (HOT)
intake .20mm
exhaust .35mm

Turn crankshaft 360deg and align timing mark.
adjust remaining valves indicated by arrows (picture indicates 4,6,8,10,11,12)."

The Chevrolet manual from 1955 truck 235CID 6cyl. says the same thing.