Valuing a modified 470 (1 Viewer)

[OverlandSoon]

I’ve spent months lurking and looking at stock 470s but a modified 2005 with 145k miles kind of fell in my lap from a relative of a co-worker in Texas. They’re asking $14,900. It has a few mods I don’t care for(no-name bumpers and winch along with a jerry-rigged shelf system that I will definitely ditch) and some that I'll keep like sliders(BudBuilt or MetalTech), Fox suspension, control arms. It has 285/70R17 KO2s with about 60% tread so they should be good for now but was planning on swapping them ASAP anyways.

The mods I don’t like don’t bother me too much. Replacing the bumpers wouldn’t substantially change what I’d do as I’d have to trim additional material off anyways. The suspension seemed amazing during the test drive but is it a liability since it’s probably 5+ years old and has upwards of 25k miles on it? All the mods initially made me think the owners had been up to no good but I dug around on their social media and it seems like they mostly towed a small boat and took it on trails in west Texas and part of the New Mexico BDR but nothing too crazy. Supposedly the last couple of years it was driven solely by one of their high school kids and no telling what shenanigans they got up to. All in all, it seems like a fair price but I just wanted to get the opinion of more knowledgeable people about the mods.

TL;DR: Probably way too many variables for feedback on this specific vehicle but, in general, how are mods valued? I assume it would increase the value unless there’s obviously something wrong(defect, Pokemon wrap, etc.) but, generally, how are they viewed by other people who have been through this?

 

[jiggletits]

You can find a clean stock one for that price. If you don't like the mods, don't buy them. $14.9 for one with undesirable mods is nothing to write home about. People who buy s***ty parts also do s***ty work in my experience and you may find gremlins.

That being said, don't be afraid of mileage on these trucks. They all need leather replacement, they all have exhaust manifold leaks, and a few other things... even with low miles (I have owned several). Most parts will last/run forever. 2005+ has more power. Just be sure timing belts were done on time. The exhaust manifold is a good negotiating point, listen for a ticking sound on cold start. $2k to replace minimum. My main bitch has 278k and aside from a little paint fade... has zero issues.

 

[OverlandSoon]

You can find a clean stock one for that price. If you don't like the mods, don't buy them. $14.9 for one with undesirable mods is nothing to write home about. People who buy s***ty parts also do s***ty work in my experience and you may find gremlins.

That being said, don't be afraid of mileage on these trucks. They all need leather replacement, they all have exhaust manifold leaks, and a few other things... even with low miles (I have owned several). Most parts will last/run forever. 2005+ has more power. Just be sure timing belts were done on time. The exhaust manifold is a good negotiating point, listen for a ticking sound on cold start. $2k to replace minimum. My main bitch has 278k and aside from a little paint fade... has zero issues.

Thanks. Yeah, the bumpers threw me for a loop. Go all out on the suspension and weld-on sliders then toss on some janky bumpers? Though to be fair I haven't researched them since they looked so out of place and there's zero chance I'd keep them regardless. They could be quality like the other mods.

 

[G-Cat]

Suspensions last far longer than 25K miles.

If the suspension is top shelf, and the sliders are high quality, and the wheel tire combo works…I’d rather have to work with bumpers I don’t like than to pay same money for stock and add suspension, wheels, tires, sliders…unless money isn’t an issue.

 

[iamacrestkid]

IMO...that's a pretty good deal. I mean its hard to find a stock 05+ GX470 right now with lower miles at that price. Add another ~4-5k in additional parts and looks like a hell of a deal especially if its in TX. Bumpers can be changed out easily and cheaply if you want to go to stock. Even if it had stock suspension it would be time to replace them anyway so having premium suspension w/ 25k miles shouldn't be an issue.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

In SoCal, that rig goes for $25k. Get it before someone else offers them more than your low ball offer!

For prices, Check out this SoCal dealer that specializes in flipping basic built overland gx470s and Toyotas #1 Dealer for Used Toyota's | San Diego | Miramar Motorsports - https://www.mmsportinc.com/

 

[OverlandSoon]

Thanks, all. Good points and feeling better about buying it.

In SoCal, that rig goes for $25k. Get it before someone else offers them more than your low ball offer!

For prices, Check out this SoCal dealer that specializes in flipping basic built overland gx470s and Toyotas #1 Dealer for Used Toyota's | San Diego | Miramar Motorsports - https://www.mmsportinc.com/

I didn't even make an offer. I'm in Washington and was in Texas visiting family when the co-worker brought up his relative with the GX. They're from the boonies in West Texas so I guess they tried for a few months to sell locally without success and low balled themselves apparently. Kind of wanted a reason to not buy it as I'm dreading that long drive back but it looks like it might be too good to pass up.

 

[OverlandSoon]

Just an update. The Texas one fell through but I lucked out and found another '05 closer to home(Bellingham, WA). Swore I'd never get a white GX after reading all the horror stories but this one has good paint with only slight peeling on the lower lip of the gas door. Miles were slightly higher at 150k but the price was slightly lower. And no flight and 35+ hour drive from Texas(gas $$$)....

Have only had it a few weeks so the to-do list is almost untouched. Oil change and a Fumoto valve were first. Did the LED swaps on the interior and license plate lights. A bit of prep on the undercarriage for some Surface Shield. Not really worthy of a build thread yet but I am logging everything just in case.

Have taken a few trips(SR20, Baker Lake dam, Diablo Lake) and planning a bunch more. First trip, though, was to the local CAT scales(only $12.50) and it weighed in at 5,324 lbs so about 450 lbs over stock. The goal is to keep it as close to the original 4,871 as possible. Doing the usual stuff(2nd/3rd row seat removal, ditching spare for daily driving, winch removal, etc.) netted me about 300 lbs so already over halfway to target. First big change will be the wheels and tires switching from the stock rims and 285/70r17 KO2s to probably SCS Gen5s and same sized Nokian Outpost ATs(49.4 lbs vs 58.11 lbs for the KO2s, per Kal Tire). Haven't seen much on the tires but the weight difference for the package, approximately 50 lbs, is too good to pass up. After that I'll be back under 5,000 lbs and ready to dump in more recovery gear and a sleeping platform for the WABDR trip(sections 5 & 6).

It's easily already the best hobby I've ever had.

 

[platypus]

My LX 470 is at 320,000 miles and everything works and drives well.
As a precaution at 250,000 miles have changed timing belt, spark plugs, coils, fuel and exhaust sensors.
Also changed out fan bearing and idler bearings.
Timing belt tensioner failed and was replaced with a new timing belt. As a precaution I also changed oil pump.
At 300,000 miles flushed suspension which is still in great condition.
Modified transfer case to be 2/4 wheel drive and installed Unichip and have increased HP as well as improved fuel economy.
Towing a 3 ton caravan is now far more economical and even quicker. Especially climbing in hilly country.

 

[jiggletits]

FYI stock weight is dry. Second you fill the fuel tank you add 6 lbs per gallon of fuel.

‘Changed oil pump as a precaution’ this isn’t a ford, it’s a million mile motor. You never have to change the oil pump.

 

[OllieChristopher]

I would run away from that vehicle or any other modified rig. Miles are a big concern for anything mechanical. Unless you know the persons driving habits you are purchasing it from, you don't know how it's been treated. 145k is a lot of miles on anything used.

 

[VSPro9]

I would run away from that vehicle or any other modified rig. Miles are a big concern for anything mechanical. Unless you know the persons driving habits you are purchasing it from, you don't know how it's been treated. 145k is a lot of miles on anything used.

145k is nothing for a gx.

I’m at 480k original engine transmission diffs etc and i beat the living snot out of my rig. What matters with GXs is the maintenance history.

Mine had a garbage maintenance history and it’s still going strong

 

[jiggletits]

290k here, shines like new

 

[Jlemmond]

Just rolled 247k on my way to work this morning. Other than a Manifold leak...shes solid. No hesitation in driving 100's of miles at the drop of a hat.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Naturally you will get a few examples of high mileage rigs. However I call BS on trouble free miles on any vehicle that is not taken care of or beat on in off highway and everyday driving. All my 300K+ vehicles had meticulous maintenance schedules and repairs made when needed.

I will assure anyone here that has a 150K mile plus GX, they have at the very least worn ball joints and many other components worn beyond being serviceable and needing replacement. I get that this is a Toyota and reliable but simply stating it has high miles in not telling the whole story.

I stand by my assertion that 145K is a lot of miles and not to be taken lightly when you are plunking down serious money. Every single manufactured vehicle regardless of brand has costly wearable parts that need replacement as the miles increase.

 

[jiggletits]

My Dad’s 96 3.4 4Runner had 480k miles when the odometer stopped working 5 years ago. He’s had it since 2004 when it has 150k. I remember going with him to pick it up. He’s never changed the trans fluid, but has done timing belts every 100k (late) . Nothing ‘meticolulous’ about his maintenance, I assure you. Leather is gone, paint is shot, but every god damn thing on that truck works. Last time I visitted it ate a spark plug. Sounded like rod knock. We thought the motor finally gave out, nope. Eventually it stopped, ran like s*** until we figured it out and replaced the plug and he’s been driving it since (over a year ago). I told him to pull the cats and get the chunks out, but he didn’t want to.

I’ve bought so many old 300-400k mile Toyotas that had ZERO maintenance records that all looked like hell. Every one of them ran great. Every one of them shined up and sold for more than I paid.

Don’t over think it. It’s a Toyota, not some american made pile of rusty garbage.

 

[VSPro9]

Yea. O

Naturally you will get a few examples of high mileage rigs. However I call BS on trouble free miles on any vehicle that is not taken care of or beat on in off highway and everyday driving. All my 300K+ vehicles had meticulous maintenance schedules and repairs made when needed.

I will assure anyone here that has a 150K mile plus GX, they have at the very least worn ball joints and many other components worn beyond being serviceable and needing replacement. I get that this is a Toyota and reliable but simply stating it has high miles in not telling the whole story.

I stand by my assertion that 145K is a lot of miles and not to be taken lightly when you are plunking down serious money. Every single manufactured vehicle regardless of brand has costly wearable parts that need replacement as the miles increase

Uhhh worn wear and tear parts are worn wear and tear parts. That’s not a reliability issue.

Really the only major issues are sais pump in vvti 4.7s and the 8” rear end blowing up off road. No other systematic issues.

 

[OllieChristopher]

I’ve bought so many old 300-400k mile Toyotas that had ZERO maintenance records that all looked like hell. Every one of them ran great.

"Ran great" is very subjective. To some people anything that starts up and goes "runs great". My description of running great means almost every part of the vehicle from power train to chassis is within specifications as outlined in the service manual. Anything less is not acceptable for road worthiness.

When I was a teenager I drove those clunkers. As I got older and learned how to work on vehicles my priorities changed. I would not spend over $20,000 on any vehicle with over 100,000 miles unless I knew the history of who and how it was driven and every single receipt and proof of all service. After a full inspection I start subtracting parts and labor on everything needing to put it within spec.

Uhhh worn wear and tear parts are worn wear and tear parts. That’s not a reliability issue.

It's a huge issue if they are not replaced or serviced in a timely manor. A broken ball joint, tie rod end, U joint or failed hub bearing can leave you just as stranded as a failed transmission or engine.

 

[VSPro9]

"Ran great" is very subjective. To some people anything that starts up and goes "runs great". My description of running great means almost every part of the vehicle from power train to chassis is within specifications as outlined in the service manual. Anything less is not acceptable for road worthiness.

When I was a teenager I drove those clunkers. As I got older and learned how to work on vehicles my priorities changed. I would not spend over $20,000 on any vehicle with over 100,000 miles unless I knew the history of who and how it was driven and every single receipt and proof of all service. After a full inspection I start subtracting parts and labor on everything needing to put it within spec.


It's a huge issue if they are not replaced or serviced in a timely manor. A broken ball joint, tie rod end, U joint or failed hub bearing can leave you just as stranded as a failed transmission or engine.

Parts can fail on anything, which is why we maintain our rigs. But calling a 150k mile GX unreliable is silliness, it’s plain wrong.

Your ocd and reality don’t quite meet here.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Parts can fail on anything, which is why we maintain our rigs. But calling a 150k mile GX unreliable is silliness, it’s plain wrong.

Your ocd and reality don’t quite meet here.

Where is that comment coming from? I never once suggested these GX's are unreliable. I'm confident that my suggesting using specifications and wearable limits of parts as a hard guide to determine road worthiness is far from me being ocd as you say.

I find no harm in recommending to thoroughly inspect and look for issues on a 150K mile vehicle. That being said, we all have our risk to reward ratio. Mine is to reduce the price and risk of a high dollar purchase of anything used (or new) as much as possible.

I do applaud you for squeezing close to a half a million miles out of your rig.