v8 fender well headers (1 Viewer)

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idus25 said:
To CLear things up a bit. I have re-enforced the bottom of the mounts with 1/4 steal because I was afraid of just that. My headers are ceramic coated and have no heat issues. I bought copper gaskets from the local speed shop and have not had to retorque them since the first 250 miles or so. There is also a summit racing heat plate/muffler guard over each Hushpower II muffler thus keeping heat to the floor board to a minimum.

I am running a 700r4/Orion HD. It was getting pretty crowded between the frame rails with the fuel pump, tranny cooler + fan, Battery isolater and what have you. OUtsied the fender was the only way to go for me.

To each there own.
Click to expand...

Idus....................did you steel that steal?:D


Ed
 
I kept one of mine and have it hanging on my 'wall of shame' with some other broken parts and tributes to all things of woe. Thanks for the offer though. Again, no attack, to each their own and good luck.
 
Miss Spelling

For those of you that have been reading this thread:

Believe it or not I do know the difference between there and their as well as steel and steal.

I am a college graduate however not even the excuse of "I rely on computers to correct my grammer" could save me.

Please have pity on me and hope that I can get it turned around.

Oh yea. Tech this and Tech that. I felt I needed to put that in there so my post will not get thrown out.

Good luck to all.
 
We offer both, and both have their own attributes, so pick your poison. Wheel well Headers get you into a location where adding an exhaust system becomes fast, simple, cheap, but vulnerable. Most block huggers are not block huggers at all (stick out 3-4", and drop straight down, not snug against the block). Block huggers normally require the engine be shifted towards passengers side, and that's where the trouble starts. Trouble with T.C. clearence at tranny tunnel, trouble with T.C. clearence at passengers side frame, trouble with exhaust routing around T.C. and front drive shaft on passengers side. Block huggers are definitely do'able, and probably alot cleaner if you do it right, but for sure, get our Ultra Block Huggers (stick out 2.75"), not run-of-the-mill, econo city, poo-poo Block Huggers. And by all means, try to keep your V8 as close to the drivers side as Toyota had your 6Cyl.
 
idus25 said:
For those of you that have been reading this thread:

Believe it or not I do know the difference between there and their as well as steel and steal.
Click to expand...


Just futzing wit you:D I am really NOT "Conan, the Grammarian":beer:


Ed
 
Downey said:
We offer both, and both have their own attributes, so pick your poison. Wheel well Headers get you into a location where adding an exhaust system becomes fast, simple, cheap, but vulnerable. Most block huggers are not block huggers at all (stick out 3-4", and drop straight down, not snug against the block). Block huggers normally require the engine be shifted towards passengers side, and that's where the trouble starts. Trouble with T.C. clearence at tranny tunnel, trouble with T.C. clearence at passengers side frame, trouble with exhaust routing around T.C. and front drive shaft on passengers side. Block huggers are definitely do'able, and probably alot cleaner if you do it right, but for sure, get our Ultra Block Huggers (stick out 2.75"), not run-of-the-mill, econo city, poo-poo Block Huggers. And by all means, try to keep your V8 as close to the drivers side as Toyota had your 6Cyl.
Click to expand...

while I am sure your ultra block huggers are very nice, the best, cleanest solution I have seen are some standard rams horn manifolds coated for heat resistance. This is what I plan to do on my 40 when it goes through it's next phase. The headers I have work well but the rams horns are cleaner for sure.
 
1973Guppie said:
while I am sure your ultra block huggers are very nice, the best, cleanest solution I have seen are some standard rams horn manifolds coated for heat resistance. This is what I plan to do on my 40 when it goes through it's next phase. The headers I have work well but the rams horns are cleaner for sure.
Click to expand...

Ram horns will be my solution for my current round. Anyone have a cheep pair?
 
Look on ebay. If you are patient and flexible, they can be found for next to nothing. Be carefull though as many are junk/repaired. There are aftermarket sources for new as well.

http://tinyurl.com/3cp8m8
http://tinyurl.com/2j633d

Here's a set of what many deem to be the most desirable 60's 'Vette w/ 2.5" outlets with bidding currently at a mere $71/set. Jump on 'em.

http://tinyurl.com/3922ka
 
I would also check with your local speedshop or hotrod club for a used set. I was lucky as hell when I dropped by to see Rich at Smokey's (our local speed shop) and he had a hot rod customer who was selling exactly what I needed for $75 (just unloading them). They were used center dump ramshorns coated and planed that had not been re-installed. :grinpimp: I was stoked, the guy was stoked, and after dropping a finders fee on Rich, he was stoked.
 
1973Guppie said:
while I am sure your ultra block huggers are very nice, the best, cleanest solution I have seen are some standard rams horn manifolds coated for heat resistance. This is what I plan to do on my 40 when it goes through it's next phase. The headers I have work well but the rams horns are cleaner for sure.
Click to expand...

I agree that manifolds fit much better than Headers. The only problem we've seen with Ram Horns is they do not fit with the Sept. 1972-older steering gear boxes (yea, I imagine someone still has one of those). For those models we always recommend the 3/4 dumps (dumps between center and rear, manifold routes below spark plugs, not above)
 
Ram Horns

I have an old set of ram horns oe Chev I assume ,And I cant find a good way to mount my alternator .As there is no holes in the manifold and no bracket to be found to accommodate this style of manifold .
Any Ideas
Sam
 
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