V band clamp problem
- Thread starter fzjadam
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Only fix I know is to get both flanges machined, then it should seal right up. Unfortunately, that's a huge pain in the ass.
Vibrant Exhaust Fabrication - V-Band Flange Assemblies - ANCLA MOTORSPORTS - Performance Tuning 2 WIN
seems like Viton would not hold the heat tho...
Cometic 3 Inch Vband Gasket for 3" exhaust, didn't find any other sizes...
or something from Spiral wound gaskets, Thermiculite, Style CG, CGI, LS & LSI, M, MC & MCS
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Viton-Orings-Exhaust-flange-Steel-Pipes-2pcs-/200415283527 non-US (silly shipping) but maybe Viton will work...hhmm
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Bevel-Seat-G...aultDomain_0&hash=item3f01bb8208#ht_906wt_905
seems like Viton would not hold the heat tho...
Cometic 3 Inch Vband Gasket for 3" exhaust, didn't find any other sizes...
or something from Spiral wound gaskets, Thermiculite, Style CG, CGI, LS & LSI, M, MC & MCS
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Viton-Orings-Exhaust-flange-Steel-Pipes-2pcs-/200415283527 non-US (silly shipping) but maybe Viton will work...hhmm
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Bevel-Seat-G...aultDomain_0&hash=item3f01bb8208#ht_906wt_905
my EMS Powered exhaust trick:
Step 1> remove the mounting bolt just aft of the catalytic
Step 2> Loosen the clamp just ahead of the muffler
Step 3> Ditch the stupid nylock nut on the V-Band clamp (or, as I did, try and loosen/tighten it, only to have it break the bolt off...) replace with a normal 5/16" fine thread nut...and if you break it off like me, remove entirely, spread the clamp until the bolt is free, and grind down the bolt sleeve 3/8" or so
Step 4> Adjust, rubber mallet/etc the over-frame pipe to get it to slide as far forward as possible..
Step 5> Assemble the V-Band clamp...tighten...more....yep, more...I pulled mine a bunch
Step 6> Tighten the pre-muffler clamp...when I tightened this clamp, you could see where it had pulled the exhaust over 1/4" forward...
Step 7> Leak test... If you have a leak at the v-band, you will most likely feel it at the clamp gap...
Step 8> if your mounting is like mine, the post-cat mounting strap is now 1/8" or so ahead of the factory mounting hole...so, out comes an old 5/16" drill bit and a small cordless drill...at an angle, I got the drill bit thru both holes and at an angle (with a 1/2" gap between the mount and the strap)...start drilling...you are "side" loading the bit and ovaling the holes...do a little, rest, check, etc....when I was done, I had two ovalish holes and the 1/4" mounting bolt fit easily...add in a couple widish washers so the bolt doesn't pull thru, and yer done...
Mine is now leak free
Course, the transfercase damper rubs, so a 14mm ratcheting combo was used to pull those two bolts, and the offending area was ground down...at least 3/8" clearance there now...
Step 1> remove the mounting bolt just aft of the catalytic
Step 2> Loosen the clamp just ahead of the muffler
Step 3> Ditch the stupid nylock nut on the V-Band clamp (or, as I did, try and loosen/tighten it, only to have it break the bolt off...) replace with a normal 5/16" fine thread nut...and if you break it off like me, remove entirely, spread the clamp until the bolt is free, and grind down the bolt sleeve 3/8" or so
Step 4> Adjust, rubber mallet/etc the over-frame pipe to get it to slide as far forward as possible..
Step 5> Assemble the V-Band clamp...tighten...more....yep, more...I pulled mine a bunch
Step 6> Tighten the pre-muffler clamp...when I tightened this clamp, you could see where it had pulled the exhaust over 1/4" forward...
Step 7> Leak test... If you have a leak at the v-band, you will most likely feel it at the clamp gap...
Step 8> if your mounting is like mine, the post-cat mounting strap is now 1/8" or so ahead of the factory mounting hole...so, out comes an old 5/16" drill bit and a small cordless drill...at an angle, I got the drill bit thru both holes and at an angle (with a 1/2" gap between the mount and the strap)...start drilling...you are "side" loading the bit and ovaling the holes...do a little, rest, check, etc....when I was done, I had two ovalish holes and the 1/4" mounting bolt fit easily...add in a couple widish washers so the bolt doesn't pull thru, and yer done...
Mine is now leak free
Course, the transfercase damper rubs, so a 14mm ratcheting combo was used to pull those two bolts, and the offending area was ground down...at least 3/8" clearance there now...
Thanks for the notes guys, this will help others with the current exhaust and help us to continually improve the design. Seems like some people have perfect fitment with the hangers and some people end up with the hanger mounting holes being off by a little bit. We may need to just drill multiple holes in the hangers to allow for some more adjustment. We'll add that to the jig and drill additional mounting holes in the hangers going forward. On the over-the frame pipe it is pushed as far forward as we can take it without moving a lot of other components, but it seems like a few people still have contact between it and the rubber transmission dampener. We'll go over the layout next week and see if we can push it further towards the rear of the truck to make more room.
The v-band clamps generally come with the high temperature locking nuts so that they don't come loose. If they are tightened too fast, or with a power tool the locking material inside the nut heats up during tightening and will sometimes snap the threaded stud. If you do replace it with a standard non-locking nut make sure to use some red loctite on the threads to ensure it doesn't loosen up over time and heat-cycles.
On the over-the-frame pipe, it is easiest to get in in position by removing the heatshield above it and then re-installing the heatshield after the pipe is in place.
I've taken a bunch of photos of the last install we did and will have a detailed instruction page on the website by later tonight to help with many of the install questions people have.
Let me know if you have any questions.
The v-band clamps generally come with the high temperature locking nuts so that they don't come loose. If they are tightened too fast, or with a power tool the locking material inside the nut heats up during tightening and will sometimes snap the threaded stud. If you do replace it with a standard non-locking nut make sure to use some red loctite on the threads to ensure it doesn't loosen up over time and heat-cycles.
On the over-the-frame pipe, it is easiest to get in in position by removing the heatshield above it and then re-installing the heatshield after the pipe is in place.
I've taken a bunch of photos of the last install we did and will have a detailed instruction page on the website by later tonight to help with many of the install questions people have.
Let me know if you have any questions.