Builds UWdave's Build - Mods & Chop (18 Viewers)
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- #42
We took a midnight run for some reason I decided to let all my friends drive...
He slid the driver corner up on a tree. While backing, the corner of the bumper caught the tree and bent in forward at a ~30deg angle. My trail fix was to gently run into a different tree to move it back and this is when the tube tore and the bottom weld tore out.
I still love my MetalTech bumper. It has survived many hard hits in the past without budging. This failure was not the bumpers fault. If you go bouncing off trees on a night run, things are bound to break.
He slid the driver corner up on a tree. While backing, the corner of the bumper caught the tree and bent in forward at a ~30deg angle. My trail fix was to gently run into a different tree to move it back and this is when the tube tore and the bottom weld tore out.
I still love my MetalTech bumper. It has survived many hard hits in the past without budging. This failure was not the bumpers fault. If you go bouncing off trees on a night run, things are bound to break.
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- #44
So I finally got around to dealing with the last of the Tahuya night run carnage.
I don't normally fix any of my dents, but this one caused my 1/4 panel to rub the door and hood when opening/closing. Also, I was a little worried that all the mud would fly right into the door hinge cavity.
Anybody know any tricks that will make welding up these 3/8" holes any easier?
I don't normally fix any of my dents, but this one caused my 1/4 panel to rub the door and hood when opening/closing. Also, I was a little worried that all the mud would fly right into the door hinge cavity.
Anybody know any tricks that will make welding up these 3/8" holes any easier?
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- #46
When I did the chop I used a brass hammer, I just don't have much access in this area.
Looking nice! Love to see people wheel these things with no regard to the body... It's amazing how well they preform when you're not worried about the paint
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- #48
Made a trip to Elbe Hills ORV.
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- #49
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- #50
Chopped the top ring off of my 2863J springs to make her sit level:
UWDave,
I saw you said you didn't have access to copper in your area. Having a copper backing bar makes sheet metal welding EASY. All of your welds will look like they were professionally done by a tig welder with decades under his belt if you use one. Hell, I have one in particular that's almost 20 pounds and 1" thick I use for high amp welding. My normal one is around 1/4" thick. Do you have a torch (oxy/ace, oxy/propane)?
In a pinch, you can get copper pipe, hammer it flat, and go to town. You can also braze a coating over a piece of steel and make a spatula heat sink. Both help immensely. It's a literal night and day difference. Spot welding / filling holes with 100% penetration, without any lack of fusion, and without a 1/4" blob hanging out both ends takes 3 seconds to do, with your eyes closed. It also makes welding gaps on sheet metal child's play. Just weld directly to the copper in the gap, then wash the puddle over the sheet.
Call up a metal recycler in your area. That's where I've bought my copper blocks/scrap from. I think I paid around $4.50 a pound. It's worth 10 times that to a welder, and probably twice that if you do sheet metal work!!
Otherwise, looks amazing!
I saw you said you didn't have access to copper in your area. Having a copper backing bar makes sheet metal welding EASY. All of your welds will look like they were professionally done by a tig welder with decades under his belt if you use one. Hell, I have one in particular that's almost 20 pounds and 1" thick I use for high amp welding. My normal one is around 1/4" thick. Do you have a torch (oxy/ace, oxy/propane)?
In a pinch, you can get copper pipe, hammer it flat, and go to town. You can also braze a coating over a piece of steel and make a spatula heat sink. Both help immensely. It's a literal night and day difference. Spot welding / filling holes with 100% penetration, without any lack of fusion, and without a 1/4" blob hanging out both ends takes 3 seconds to do, with your eyes closed. It also makes welding gaps on sheet metal child's play. Just weld directly to the copper in the gap, then wash the puddle over the sheet.
Call up a metal recycler in your area. That's where I've bought my copper blocks/scrap from. I think I paid around $4.50 a pound. It's worth 10 times that to a welder, and probably twice that if you do sheet metal work!!
Otherwise, looks amazing!
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- #52
More wheeling, more damage.
Decided to follow a buggy and got high centered. All 4 tires barely touching the ground.
Bent the skid up a little and it was touching the TC, so I had to improvise.
Also added some MetalTech lower control arms:
Decided to follow a buggy and got high centered. All 4 tires barely touching the ground.
Bent the skid up a little and it was touching the TC, so I had to improvise.
Also added some MetalTech lower control arms:
