US GVM upgrade? (1 Viewer)

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prwillard2

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I know the Aussies have a GVM upgrade to our cruisers, but even putting the same parts on our trucks here in the states won't legally allow us to change our GVM right?

Trying to determine if I want to build out my cruiser as an long range overlander vs daily driver as she is now.

Other option is I try and import a troopy and build that out.
 
I know the Aussies have a GVM upgrade to our cruisers, but even putting the same parts on our trucks here in the states won't legally allow us to change our GVM right?

Correct. Only the vehicle manufacturer can certify a change in GVWR.

HTH
 
Separating out legality, as there's generally no practical method here in the states.

There's lots of parts to do this. Generally it's the suspension that's the major limitation.

I'd still recommend to watch the weight no-matter your goals. It can add up real quick and ultimately will effect the performance and satisfaction of the overall vehicle.
 
While we have no method in the US to legally change the certified GVWR there is also no regulatory obligation of a private, non-commercial vehicle to conform. What I find as a joke of the Australian method is that the government's pure focus seems to be aimed at the suspension upgrades without consideration of VCG vs Roll Center or of braking capacity.
 
While we have no method in the US to legally change the certified GVWR there is also no regulatory obligation of a private, non-commercial vehicle to conform. What I find as a joke of the Australian method is that the government's pure focus seems to be aimed at the suspension upgrades without consideration of VCG vs Roll Center or of braking capacity.
That's not true. The Australian GVM upgrade kits have been tested for braking and handling performance. They also have restrictions on lift height and increases in tire diameter.
 
What I would do is go ahead and weigh the axle weights of your truck. A majority truck stop can do this and charge around $8.

Once your have the axle weights compare what your weight is now to your GVWR. That’s how much payload the truck is rated for. I’m still learning 200 series but for example if you have a 2012 LC and you notice the 2017 has a higher GVWR it could be due to the bigger brakes. Also take into account option equipment installed such as third row seats.

Don’t forget the difference between sprung and Usprung weight
 
That's not true. The Australian GVM upgrade kits have been tested for braking and handling performance. They also have restrictions on lift height and increases in tire diameter.
They may well be tested, but the systems are not upgraded thus such performance is degraded from OEM levels.
 
@Julian73 Anybody going the route of uprated GVM will understand the compromise. Add 1000 lbs of weight and no amount of money in brake upgrades will allow you to brake as well as stock trim and GVM. Many full sized 3/4 T and their respective 1 Ton trucks will have different suspension but the same brakes on both models.
 
@Julian73 Anybody going the route of uprated GVM will understand the compromise. Add 1000 lbs of weight and no amount of money in brake upgrades will allow you to brake as well as stock trim and GVM. Many full sized 3/4 T and their respective 1 Ton trucks will have different suspension but the same brakes on both models.
I'm sorry but any engineer would understand that adding 1000 lbs of weight above original GVM will definitely degrade braking performance due to the increase in kinetic energy.... =1/2 (m+madded)*v**2 or roughly an additional 17% in your example. While for an adequate braking system, the distance is technically the same due to an equal increase in the friction level, what is not considered in that assumption is that the 17% extra energy can be put into the brakes and tires without overheating one or both. Brakes are not sized with massive heat sinks or reserves for overload, a 17% increase in stopping engird will quickly overheat the pads and fluid.
 
What are you going to add?

Lots of plus sized girls on here pushing 8k# and over fully loaded.

I think you’ll find that Toyota has been EXTREMELY conservative in their calculations. It appears the Big 3 US companies push their stated maximums to the absolute limit.

Everything on a 200 series is beefier than an F150 yet one can haul and tow significantly more……
 
@Julian73 These GVM upgrades have been out for the LC200 for over 10 years in Australia. The stock braking system is clearly adequate for their terrain, driving style and uprated GVM.
 
What are you going to add?

Lots of plus sized girls on here pushing 8k# and over fully loaded.

I think you’ll find that Toyota has been EXTREMELY conservative in their calculations. It appears the Big 3 US companies push their stated maximums to the absolute limit.

Everything on a 200 series is beefier than an F150 yet one can haul and tow significantly more……
Long range tank, front and rear bumpers, winch, swing outs, roof rack, RTT, trekboxx system alpha, fridge, gear, etc.
 
@Julian73 Anybody going the route of uprated GVM will understand the compromise. Add 1000 lbs of weight and no amount of money in brake upgrades will allow you to brake as well as stock trim and GVM. Many full sized 3/4 T and their respective 1 Ton trucks will have different suspension but the same brakes on both models.

That is not true. Some may but not in general.

Many people with 3/4 tons will swap out to 1 ton brakes when they over size the tires. Ask me how I know this.
 
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I didn't say "majority." I said "many"..... as in many manufacturers have done it over the years. Ford and GM come to mind. The additional registration/tax fees of a 1 Ton vs a 3/4 Ton make it a consideration for some, in some States.
 
Long range tank, front and rear bumpers, winch, swing outs, roof rack, RTT, trekboxx system alpha, fridge, gear, etc.
Just weighed mine today.

2013 LC, front/rear bumpers w/ swingouts, winch, sliders, BB SS full skids plus all other available underside armor options like lower shock guards, RLCA skids, RLCA frame mount skids, etc, 24 gal LRA, and 34" tires. No drawers or roof rack. Deleted third row seats. Weighed in at 7360 lb with both fuel tanks full and my normal tools, parts, recovery gear. No people or other gear.

GVMR is 7385 is minus 13 lb for something dealer or at least post factory installed (that makes me laugh). GAWR is 7895. Loaded up with typical road trip/camping gear and two humans I'll add another 700 to 800 lbs for a total of 8060 to 8160. When my build is finished adding drawers and maybe a roof rack (no RTT) I'll be in the 8400 lb zip code. My rig won't be the only one that heavy either. That is 1000 lbs more than GVMR and 500 lbs more than the combined axle ratings. While that is a lot, it is only about 14% over GVMR. I'm not worried about anything frame related needing reinforcement. In fact, I'd say all of the steel I've bolted to the frame has more than compensated for the weight I've added in terms of strength. I pretty much have a box steel tubing/steel plate torsion box now. My suspension sure seems to handle the weight just fine with heavier springs and shocks up to the task. I do wonder about brakes though and will be looking into options there. While the OEM brakes may be OK, it seems to stand to reason that my stopping distance is more than it was with the extra 1000 lbs.
 
In the USA they do not adjust the GVMR and GAWR like they do down under.

Changing springs shocks and suspension part you are adjusting the GVMR and GAMR. Example I run ARB 2724 rear springs rated at +400kg.

This is exactly the difference between a 2500 Pickup HD vs a Light Duty, the suspension is different.

That is with stock springs and all that weight, yes you would be over the GVWR but when you change springs etc.. who knows. Mind you the LEO would just look at the sticker.
 

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