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sorry, newbie here again. What's a MC4 connector? Something I need?No MC4 connector?
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sorry, newbie here again. What's a MC4 connector? Something I need?No MC4 connector?
sorry, newbie here again. What's a MC4 connector? Something I need?
Definitely have considered that option quite a few times in the past. The portability and price are great too. Can easily just bring it inside and avoid the whole AZ heat issue when not using it. Would save a TON of money going that route too.Have you considered not using an AGM or LFP battery at all, but instead getting one of the larger "solar generator" (I hate that term) battery packs?
Something like this: Amazon product ASIN B07SM5HBK1
For some reason the Amazon links aren't showing for me, so here's the picture instead:
And then using a lightweight flexible 100w panel to charge it? The flexible panels are light weight enough you could put them in a Land Cruiser attic (the net thing that creates a storage area under the roof).
I’ve missed mud lately. Many great options and opinions. I though lithium vs AGM Was the extent of it when I made this thread. Completely forgot about Solar Generator and Single Battery setups. I’m soaking it all in. Definitely more than 1 path to this power quest.So, I have a setup that would meet your needs. People get downright nasty picking sides on the fight of whether to put an AGM under the hood, but thats what I did and almost two years in, I wouldn't do it differently. Here it is.
ARB Drawers with roller tops on both sides. In hindsight, i would have only one roller top for the fridge
Upgraded main battery with the SLEE tray and an Optima extreme hybrid battery (100 amp/hr)
Added the fuse to increase alternator charge voltage (now that i have solar, may remove)
100 watt rigid solar on the roof. This addresses staying put and also charging the AGM at higher voltages.
Everything is a give and take. I have never needed to use my lithium jumper, but carry one in the glove box just in case. No extra battery, no DC/DC charging. Highly recommended.
Here is a pic of my 100 watt panel that i mounted to my Dissent rack. It is recessed, so i Still have full rack usage when needed. Do i sometimes have to park in the sun? Maybe. But most of the time I am moving daily, or at least a small day trip from base camp which tops off the battery. One campground trip I had to idle the car a bit to charge, but that was more due to no sun at all. With the super efficient fridges these days, I would do 2 nighters fine without solar and power the fridge and whatever I charged via usb.View attachment 2545079
Talked to the shop doing the install again about the solar. Being no shortage of sun in AZ, where most of the camping takes place, I think I'm gonna hold off on the expensive foldable option, and just do a fixed Renogy 160W to start. See how it goes, realistically as much as I'd like to park in the shade, the majority of spots I camp have no shadeAnybody went this route?
Bugout 130™ Solar Charger
Made in Boise, Idaho, see why the BugOut™ has become the standard for vehicle-based expeditions, military units, and others seeking high-output solar power in a rugged, portable package.www.overlandsolar.com
Was recommended by the shop that's doing the install as an alternative to the Nomad. I mentioned I didn't want the proprietary connection of the Goal Zero.
130W+ with 20ft anderson or SAE extension. $595
Thanks for the tip @NoClue . For the Renogy panel, it'll go straight into the RedArc BCDC which takes place of needing a separate solar charger. If i do end up adding a flexible solar panel in the future, I'll probably want a charge controller of its own for that to just charge the house battery. I'll check those outI have heard good things about this solar charger for AGM batteries :
BatteryMINDer® Model SCC-180: 12V 180 Watt (12V 180W) Solar Charger-Maintainer-Desulfator
BatteryMINDer’s SCC-180 12 volt solar battery charger maintainer adjusts its output several times a second to correctly charge your battery without ever overcharging.www.batteryminders.com
The input is always appreciated. The Trailer (Moab Fort XL) has a 75W AGM and a small inverter. Really for us, it's just to power the water pump in the trailer. I never use the inverter even. I'm sure the portable "solar generator" option could totally make sense and work for me. I think mainly I want to go the built-in route just so I have more options to expand if needs grow in the future. Already having the wiring, mounts, and ports galore, along with the rigid solar panel, BCDC and Switch-Pro should suit most future expansion.Not trying to convince you, but it's not a bad strategy to consider.
I know you said you have an off-road trailer. Does that have its own onboard batts and inverter to support high power draws? I do use a solar generator (hate that term) / AKA Goal Zero batt. I find it handy to move between the car and also my travel trailer. Or onto the camping table for example.
It's also lithium which is light, high power, and flexible.
These the ones you are talking about?I use one of those Green Lithium batteries. That and a Renogy 100 on the roof. It keeps the 63 qrt arb running in the Florida heat endlessly without starting the vehicle.
We camp for 3 to 5 days at a time and it has been working well.
PM me if you are interest in one of these green batteries, they are 1/2 the price of the battle one. The lithium charges up faster than the AGM ones, so if you have limited solar time it works better.
Does that really work? I've tried similar in the past to charge a camper battery and it seemed to take a very long time to recharge.Ditch the solar and run the truck for 30 minutes each day at camp to charge the battery.
Getting back to drawer talk for a bit if you don't mind. Thanks again for the info on this. I reached out to Matt like you'd suggested and he responded in detail. I'd also like to start by saying sometimes I wish I'd never heard of Drifta. Man what a shame they are so hard to get. Such awesome configuration options, at a pretty reasonable price. Basically spent 1/4 of my day watching the youtube videos from Drifta and by the end was completely convinced I must have them...whatever it takes. Love this configuration:Yes, that is the distributor and they were very responsive by email. I was referred to them by Drifter in Australia when I inquired about shipping to the US. Drop Matt Broadbent a line: matt@kakaducamping.com
@Taco2Cruiser spoke very highly of Drifta, and I respect Rob's opinion a great deal, so that was why I started looking at them.
The Drifta drawers are custom built per your needs.
Landshark Reef uses a similar Ultra-Wear Resistant Ultra-High Molecular Weight (UWRUHMW) slide, but they aren't a turnkey setup, and I don't think they're configurable to meet your fridge needs without lots of customization. I haven't had any issues with my Reef drawer slides.
I think Matt said they do about 4 containers a year, so it depends on both production time, and when a container is ready, plus transit time.
Have you seen the MSA drop slides? They're pretty cool too.
MSA 4X4
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