Running Wires thru the rear hatch (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Threads
40
Messages
780
Location
San Clemente, CA
Currently setting up solar on the roof and was planning on running the wires thru the rear hatch. I have been running the cable for my magnetic antenna like this for some time and haven't noticed any water intrusion or other adverse affects. However these cables are larger and there is two of them. I've seen people mention this method over the last year but my search came up dry looking for examples or other methods. Any comments or suggestions welcome, just wanted to ask those who have gone this routes for some feedback before putting the side panels back on.

IMG_5023.jpg



IMG_5021.jpg
 
On my 100 I ran all the way down the channel you started in, behind the bumper and then up in the floor on the rear quarter using a firewall grommet. Just watch for rear ac lines. On the 100 it’s on the passenger side. Not sure of the 200. Haven’t done this on mine yet
 
Seems like a recipe for leaks. Also, I'd consider adding some chafe protection: for example, to that red wire where it passes behind the seatbelt mount bolt and over the sharp edges. Years ago I had a wire wear through and bad things happened.

Edit: the post above sounds like a safer way to do it. You can use the existing grommet on the floor (I just used this grommet for running wires to my rear LED light.).
 
Seems like a recipe for leaks. Also, I'd consider adding some chafe protection: for example, to that red wire where it passes behind the seatbelt mount bolt and over the sharp edges. Years ago I had a wire wear through and bad things happened.

Edit: the post above sounds like a safer way to do it. You can use the existing grommet on the floor (I just used this grommet for running wires to my rear LED light.).

Found the grommet, seems simple enough. Did you just unwrap what i perceive to be electrical tape around the current wire being passed thru a, run the wires thru and then tape it back up?

Good call on the chafing, was yet to really secure it and protect it as i wasn't sold on the location yet.

IMG_5025.jpg
 

Thanks Eric! As i was running my rear hatch light thru the pass throughs right next to that, I thought that might be possible, but didn’t know of that part, so thanks for that. Probably the cleanest but most involved solution. It seemed like it was a tight fit from the hatch into the cabin pass thru as it was, but might be able to get two more cables through it. Or use the one that seemed like it had the washer fluid in it.

What is the protective sleeve you have on that cable? Looks nicer than most.
 
Thanks Eric! As i was running my rear hatch light thru the pass throughs right next to that, I thought that might be possible, but didn’t know of that part, so thanks for that. Probably the cleanest but most involved solution. It seemed like it was a tight fit from the hatch into the cabin pass thru as it was, but might be able to get two more cables through it. Or use the one that seemed like it had the washer fluid in it.

What is the protective sleeve you have on that cable? Looks nicer than most.
There are some really nice looms at www.cabletiesandmore.com I like SKU: 2209-SF-18
 
Found the grommet, seems simple enough. Did you just unwrap what i perceive to be electrical tape around the current wire being passed thru a, run the wires thru and then tape it back up?

Good call on the chafing, was yet to really secure it and protect it as i wasn't sold on the location yet.

View attachment 2252287
Yes, that is exactly what I did. I removed the existing wrap, slit the sleeve, fed the wires through, and carefully re-wrapped it.
 
Thanks for all the tips, after mulling it over, going to use the firewall entrance by the rear passenger tire. I'm actually having Dissent put on a rear bumper in two days, which is why i had to remove my drawers and figured I'd take the opportunity to tackle some electrical in the rear. I'm pretty sure they have to go thru that port anyways to wire up the rear lights and camera extension, so hopefully can just have it opened up and released once.

Still need to get the wires covered in a loom (projects are now harder without 2 day delivery!), but here is the plan for any others interested or those that stumble upon this thread via search.

IMG_5026.jpg
IMG_5027.jpg
IMG_5028.jpg


I'm going to look into if anyone makes magnetic cable tie solutions to make sure the cable stays out of the way in the hatch. but there is actually plenty of clearance for operation.
 
There is an existing hole with a grommet behind the rear bumper "skin" on the passenger side, below the gas fill hose.

I used this wiring up my rear bumper lights.

That skin just pops off and it easy access right there. Then you can run behind that interior panel to where you want to go.
 
going to use the firewall entrance by the rear passenger tire

I used that same path on my 100 to run some coax for roof mounted antennas. Worked well. On the 100 there was a removable plastic cover plate behind the rear bumper, not a grommet. I drilled a couple holes in the cover the same size of the cable to prevent water / exhaust intrusion. From there you could route up into the cargo area next to the rear AC. Just protect the cables from chaffing as there are some sharp edges in that area.

Originally I had the cables routed like you show in the first post, except towards the bottom of the tailgate. Even with a drip loop I was worried about water intrusion.
 
There is an existing hole with a grommet behind the rear bumper "skin" on the passenger side, below the gas fill hose.

I used this wiring up my rear bumper lights.

That skin just pops off and it easy access right there. Then you can run behind that interior panel to where you want to go.

Is that one different than the pic above? The one i had a picture of is pretty much right below the gas fill location. Struggling to find what you are referring to. Any other tips on the location?
 
There is another rubber body plug (no wires passing through) under the side of the bumper skin on the vertical surface that he may be referring to? You need to take the bumper skin off to see it well.
 
There is another rubber body plug (no wires passing through) under the side of the bumper skin on the vertical surface that he may be referring to? You need to take the bumper skin off to see it well.
Ok, probably what he is talking about. I'll take another look
 
I'm going to look into if anyone makes magnetic cable tie solutions to make sure the cable stays out of the way in the hatch. but there is actually plenty of clearance for operation.
You might search for Mag Daddy. They make a bunch of magnetic wire management things. My friend who works for an electrical supply distributor gave me a bunch of his samples and they are exactly what you need for those cables. I would suggest something like MZD0.00BKMag Daddy - Mini Zip Daddy, BlackPrice/Ea: $0.72
Good luck,
Robert
 
You might search for Mag Daddy. They make a bunch of magnetic wire management things. My friend who works for an electrical supply distributor gave me a bunch of his samples and they are exactly what you need for those cables. I would suggest something like MZD0.00BKMag Daddy - Mini Zip Daddy, BlackPrice/Ea: $0.72
Good luck,
Robert
Hey thanks for the link, I'll probably go crazy at that place.
 
I wrapped my cables in the braided wrap and just used gorilla tape every 6 inches down the channel. Been there for years...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom