Updated the Update Over Heat***. Engine bay heat

[dannyvp]

My engine bay gets really hot. Plenty of coolent, while driving the temp stays about half way up the dial, but the engine bay will get so hot, you can’t even hold the vacuum tubing.
The heat caused me problems with the way the truck was running this afternoon I think.

Does anyone have extra vents to add air flow?
Radiator flush maybe to lower temps?

It is 100deg outside so that doesn’t help, but you can’t let outside temps hold up the cruiser.

 

[Hojack]

If your water temp is good and your not overheating your alright. Heat in the engine bay is normal. Motors generate a lot of heat. With it 100F outside there’s nothing to cool it off. Make sure your fan is blowing good.

 

[Hojack]

When I had my 2F my carb would act up after the motor was hot on hot days. I bagged that motor so I’m sure others will be more helpful in that area.

 

[dannyvp]

If your water temp is good and your not overheating your alright. Heat in the engine bay is normal. Motors generate a lot of heat. With it 100F outside there’s nothing to cool it off. Make sure your fan is blowing good.

The engine bay got so hot that the truck started running bad, would not go over 60 MPH and started hammering at that speed.

I’m going to drive it later to see if it does it once it cools down. The vac lines you litterly could not hold them.

 

[Hojack]

Do you have access to a heat gun?
You may be getting vapor lock.
How’s your fuel filter?

 

[dannyvp]

Do you have access to a heat gun?
You may be getting vapor lock.
How’s your fuel filter?

Fuel filter is new. Less than 2 or 3 tanks of fuel.
I have a heat gun that produces heat, not one that monitors heat.

 

[Hojack]

FJ60 vapor lock or over heating??

forum.ih8mud.com

Check this thread and see if your symptoms are similar.
I meant temp. gun

 

[dannyvp]

FJ60 vapor lock or over heating??

forum.ih8mud.com

Check this thread and see if your symptoms are similar.
I meant temp. gun

That’s what it sounds like. Pretty much the same issues.

 

[OSS]

If it's 100° F outside and you've been driving it— there's no way you're going to be able to touch anything inside the engine bay

 

[dannyvp]

So if it vapor lock, will a 4 row radiator help keep everything cooler?
I’ve noticed that when it’s hot and running the AC the temp rises on the gauge.

Top half of engine is rebuilt, new fugi carb, new water pump and t stat, new fluid.

 

[micruz60]

Is the carburetor cooling fan working? You would hear it after shutting down the engine.

You could remove the rubber flaps at the wheelwells, allowing more airflow below- venting out the heat?

 

[Hojack]

X2 on the carb cooling fan.

 

[Hojack]

So if it vapor lock, will a 4 row radiator help keep everything cooler?
I’ve noticed that when it’s hot and running the AC the temp rises on the gauge.

Top half of engine is rebuilt, new fugi carb, new water pump and t stat, new fluid.

The motor will run hotter with AC as its working harder.

 

[dannyvp]

The carb fans runs when the truck shuts off.

 

[Gretsch]

I’ve noticed that when it’s hot and running the AC the temp rises on the gauge.

How's your radiator fan and fan clutch assembly? Can you hear the fan clutch engage while driving? Is the WP belt tensioned properly? As @OSS mentioned, I think its pretty normal for the ambient temp in the engine bay to be crazy hot. I know mine is.

The engine bay got so hot that the truck started running bad, would not go over 60 MPH and started hammering at that speed.

What does "hammering at that speed" mean? Like bucking? How do you know the truck running bad is to do with the engine bay temps? As @Hojack says I would check the head/block temps with a temp gun just to make sure you are getting a good reading from your temp gauge. At least will tell you that you are not doing damage by driving it around.

I know when I replaced my fan clutch it made a world of difference in the trucks ability to cool itself down. I am not sure how much the radiator fan is actually designed to cool off the ambient temp in the engine bay, but it does create quite a flow of air throughout the bay on mine. Enough to move hair around all the way behind where the carb is positioned at higher RPM. Its been over 100 degrees here in Texas for days at a time and no issues with my truck. The thread @Hojack posted ends with the typical ICS grounding issue. If 'hammering' refers to the truck bucking at highway speeds like hitting a wall repeatedly while driving, then I would check there for issues. HTH.

 

[dannyvp]

How's your radiator fan and fan clutch assembly? Can you hear the fan clutch engage while driving? Is the WP belt tensioned properly? As @@OSS mentioned, I think its pretty normal for the ambient temp in the engine bay to be crazy hot. I know mine is.

I assume it works as it should, I know the fan works from working on the engine with the hood up all the time.

What does "hammering at that speed" mean? Like bucking?

Yes Bucking

How do you know the truck running bad is to do with the engine bay temps?

Just a guess, to start the troubleshooting process

then I would check there for issues. HTH.

How do you check the ground? Its a new ics with dual wires.

 

[Gretsch]

I found on mine it was hard to 'check' them. Just make sure the wires are good and not broken anywhere. Folks say to turn off engine, and with key on, unplug/plug in the ICS plug to hear for a click, which tells you it works. My experience was that it would always click even when it would sometimes not work. I ended up doing the ICS ground bypass and grounded the ICS direct to the carb. I ran this way for 3-4 months to see if my problem was fixed and/or returned. If the issue went away then I knew it was the ICS grounds causing my issues. I then returned the plug back to stock, removed the jumpers, and re-flowed the solder on the emissions computer circuit board to permanently fix it. Basically, you crack open the plug and fashion some jumper wires to bridge between the two plug halves. See below:

you got it!

to bypass the computer(where the ICS grounds)

pic of what to do(without hacking up wiring). In short, you just need to jumper wires, one will ground to the carb.

unplug the ICS, get 2 pieces of wire(16guage or so) and a few normal male and female spade terminals(I think .25") 1 wire will have a male end and a female end, this goes just goes between the 2 plugs and is the postive(power) . Other will have a male(or maybe female) spade, other end a ring terminal. One end goes to the ICS, other will go to a screw on the carb(grounding it out)

When troubleshooting this my main issue was rough idle and dying at stoplights. But periodically the truck would buck wildly at highway speeds. Felt like the truck was gonna leave the engine on the ground somewhere. Really violent. The ICS is grounded at the emissions computer so that circuit board controls the activation of the ICS itself on the ground side. I think one of the functions is preventing unburned fuel from entering the exhaust system on decel among other things. There are some drawbacks to running this way long term, so I would just use this to rule out if this is your issue or not. This is good illustration on what the ICS system does:




The ICS can fail mechanically as well. O-Ring can get broken and cause the ICS to stick. Yours is new so thats prolly not the case. Don't want to lead you down a rabbit hole here but thought it was easy enough to try. If you are not getting rough idle then your issue might be something else entirely. HTH.

 

[dannyvp]

It runs like a dream right now, until yesterday at 65 mph after it had been running for 20 minutes already. Then it started bucking with no power at 65. I slowed to 60 and it drove fine then it did it at 60 then 55, so I drove home on backroads at 45 with no issues.

I did check my ICS not long ago while tuning the carb.

 

[Gretsch]

I assume it works as it should, I know the fan works from working on the engine with the hood up all the time.

When you say 'works', you mean its actually creating airflow? These fans spin all the time with engine running, but without the clutch engaging it wouldn't generate actual real airflow. There is a distinct roar when the clutch engages. You should be able to even hear the sound change as you are driving at highway speeds. Pretty unmistakable when it engages. I always test it by goosing the engine at the carb with the hood up, and feeling for the rush of air coming at me from the fan.

 

[Gretsch]

It runs like a dream right now, until yesterday at 65 mph after it had been running for 20 minutes already. Then it started bucking with no power at 65. I slowed to 60 and it drove fine then it did it at 60 then 55, so I drove home on backroads at 45 with no issues.

I did check my ICS not long ago while tuning the carb.

Yeah that was my experience. Pretty frustrating thing to track down. So intermittent. I would spend hours checking ICS and it always worked. Until it didn't. Never seem to have any rhyme or reason to it. No way I could force it to happen. Bypassed the grounds and it never did it again. Truck would run great and I would think its all fixed and just had some quirky issue, then it would come back. Maddening. I was skeptical the ICS was my issue as it did not make sense to me that this little thing could do all that was happening. For me at least it was. I checked and replaced all manner of bits on my truck before centering on what was actually the first suggestion in my troubleshooting thread: the ICS. Again not sure this is your issue but the ground bypass is easy enough to try. Maybe before that just let it roll and see if it happens again.