undercoating (1 Viewer)

[185]

talking to a couple of FF undercoating places and the pricing is all over the place and the biggest difference is application areas. im leaning towards FF black cause of the factory fresh look and understand its from the addition of graphene powder.

Door jambs, door drains, barn door etc seem to be optional on the lower end, while everyone is going at the frame and the underbody?

Has anyone regretted doing the optional door drains etc or regretted not getting those done?

 

[Rednexus]

GXs don't really have body rust problems. I'd just get the frame and undercarriage done.

It's also not hard to DIY the application with a Kellsport gun and small air compressor.

 

[jonshonda]

I live in Wisconsin and body rust is very very rare on Lexus and most Toyotas. But the same can't be said for the frames and undercarriage. I used Woolwax black and really spent a lot of time with the hoses (WW pro gun comes with 360* and straight nozzle hoses) reaching into all the tight places and cavities vs just blasting everything with the wide nozzle. I pulled every body plug I could, but this winter will be pulling the running boards to access the body plugs they block as well.

My 07 GX was never treated and had rust issues at the mounting locations for the running boards on the body, and hoping that won't happen with the 17 we just picked up last year. Applying undercoating does involve a lot of prep and labor to do it right, and I assume you get what you pay for as there are likely many ways to cut corners with the application.

 

[prez1967]

Fluid Film Black, get the DIY Kit and a small pancake air compressor and go to town.

Dont use multiple spray rattle cans. Not the same application.

Save money and get as deep into it as youd like!

 

[Rednexus]

FWIW, I actually use Woolwax Black on the outside of the frame/undercarriage and Fluid Film inside the frame. This combination has worked very very well over the past 3 years on my GX. Particularly the rear inner fenders/framerails have build up a nice layer of the undercoating with a bit of dirt, as I occasionally touch them up after washing the rig.

 

[185]

Thanks folks. Im going to detail the rig and hit it with a undercarriage washer. Then let it air dry for a couple of days before taking it to a shop that seems to know what they are doing. The rear door is I guess my primary concern because it traps alot of moisture and debris in its channels. Also seeing a couple of specks of rust forming on the hinge, which was my area of concern.

I originally planned on diying this with case of surface shield, but life had other plans, so ill keep those as touchups.

Finally, one shop mentioned undercoating is best followed by driving through a dusty road. I dont know if Ill be able to get that part done, but any harm skipping that step?

 

[Cold Iron]

Thanks folks. Im going to detail the rig and hit it with a undercarriage washer. Then let it air dry for a couple of days before taking it to a shop that seems to know what they are doing. The rear door is I guess my primary concern because it traps alot of moisture and debris in its channels. Also seeing a couple of specks of rust forming on the hinge, which was my area of concern.

I originally planned on diying this with case of surface shield, but life had other plans, so ill keep those as touchups.

Finally, one shop mentioned undercoating is best followed by driving through a dusty road. I dont know if Ill be able to get that part done, but any harm skipping that step?

Make sure to drop the spare first of course. Wrong time of year IMO I always do mine in the fall and yes to driving on dusty roads after treating to add another layer of protection.

My local 4x4 shop specializes in frame section replacement for Jeeps and Toyotas. The threat is real depending on where you live of course and where you drive in the winter.

For 11 years I climbed under my Taco and treated it with FF. When I sold it this Spring one person pointed out some rust around the door sills, and a few other places underneath. But nothing really serious especially if you qualified that statement for saying for an 11 year old rig. When I bought my 19 GX in November it had spent winters in Texas so the frame was spotless. This time I paid a pro to have it done with NH Oil Undercoating which is FF on steroids. Dupont modified FF to add more adhesive capabilities and creep to create NHOU.

After watching him do it I will never do it myself again, he got into places I never dreamed of. And changed nozzle tips and air pressure depending on where he was spraying.

6 months later the stuff is still creeping out in places especially at the bottom of the barn door. The creep reminds me of Kroil penetrating fluid it is that much. And can still smell oil burning off the exhaust when I turn it off on occasion. FF would drip for a few days in the driveway then stop but this stuff, and I had him use clear, still occasionally drips on my driveway. Which is paver brick and stains the bricks. Getting ripped up and replaced with cement soon anyhow but imagine it will stain concrete as well.

Woolwax is supposed to be as good from what people have said. For 6 weeks in the Fall I run my rigs hard off road hunting in Mn. and Canada with a lot of water crossings. FF pretty much got washed off by the time snow flies which is why I wait until then to coat it. Plus that is when it gets exposed to everything from Magnesium to Sodium chloride. Fine line with a window of only a couple of weeks at best but want fresh protection before the roads get treated. FF was an annual thing. With NHOU or maybe Woolwax I am thinking I can get by every other year. As long as a pro does it.

If you already have rust starting then yeah you may not want to wait for Fall but if using FF I would want to do another treatment then as well.

 

[Rednexus]

Regarding the dirt road - yes you do need it. Otherwise the FF may wash off if you drive in the rain or through a big puddle. The dirt will make it from a more sticky "crust" that won't really come off unless you scrape it.

I do think Woolwax is a better product for exterior frame coatings. It's thicker and less stinky. Fluid Film is great for inside the frame, under the hood and other things as well...I use it as a surface lubricant on my tractor hitch components and various moving parts on our camper. I like it better then a petroleum product. If you get it on your hands it's basically a lotion and completely non-toxic.

 

[volklflip88]

Depending on where you live, Krown undercoating is a great option. Canadian company but they have shops in the northeast.

 

[r2m]

Living less than a hundred yards from the Pacific, my wife's '07 Taco rusted out along the top right edge of the windshield. She loves her truck so a couple of Christmas's ago had all the cancer cleaned up and repainted the same factory fire engine red. So far it's been fine.
But for Lexus you right, never heard of rust through yet on this forum.
Maybe check the GX470 forum since they are getting a little long in tooth and may be coming up on rust issues.
See what they're doing.

 

[snowGX460]

Is it suggested to no longer use car washes that do undercarriage washes once this stuff is applied?

A friend recommended Waxoyl for underbody treatment. He said it lasts much longer than the other solutions.

 

[Rednexus]

Undercarriage washes are usually kind of ineffective and probably won't harm undercoating that is mixed with a layer of dirt.

 

[Cold Iron]

Is it suggested to no longer use car washes that do undercarriage washes once this stuff is applied?

A friend recommended Waxoyl for underbody treatment. He said it lasts much longer than the other solutions.

Correct do not use undercarriage wash after applying underbody coating. Even Waxoyl and NH Oil will wash off eventually and Dupont recommends you do not do an underbody wash after application.

Waxoyl and NH Oil are about the same from what I have read for wash resistance. And much better resistance than FF, PB Blaster, Corrosion Free 3000, etc.

Car washes recycle water. They filter out sediment and particulate matter and the better more expensive ones use fresh water for the final rinse. But that recycled water is concentrated brine in the winter. I only wash the body of my vehicles ~once a month in the winter when they get so bad I can't take it anymore. Most washes here close at 10° and below so there are long periods of time where they aren't open anyways.

I have a heated garage but park outside. Heat is a catalyst for rust when it is cold enough rust can't form.

Control piece of oil free steel wool (cabinet grade) sitting in 40° temps in my garage 4 weeks after spraying with salt water.

Same but treated with FF

This was years ago and the other pictures have gone missing. CF 3000 did the best of all but not by much. If I would had thought of it would put another control piece outside but didn't. Unless you count my vehicles and it seems to have worked well over the years for them.