Undercoating sealant thing for rust protection?

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L

Lantec

Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Threads
28
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303
Location
Coquitlam, BC
Does this sound like a bad idea?

It just seems a lot more lasting than an annual spray of oil.

It seems pretty easy to apply, it comes in a can or a spray.

The only thing I can think of as being as bad is perhaps it might melt near the engine areas.
 
Lantec said:
How long does the rustcheck usually last? It looks pretty easy to apply.
Click to expand...

Do it twice a year. Spring, and fall (before snow flies and they salt the road).
You can do it yourself if you buy the sprayer. Just make sure when you drill holes for the plugs that you paint all the metal. Would kinda defeat the purposes of spraying if you left it bare.

Cheers,
Nick
 
I agree with Goldboy.
Dont use a plastic undercoat.
It chips and peals off. Then allows water to get underneath.
Now your undercoat is worsing the problem, because its holding the water next to the bare metal.

You are better off to:
Pressure wash
Sand or wire wheel down the rust
Spray with rust converter
The coat with Tremclad rust protection spray enamal.
Then put the spray on rustproofing wax/oil stuff

Then when the rust starts coming back, do it again.

Also, in the winter (and summer) I pressure wash my truck once a week at the car wash (not as often in summer. only when dirty).
I always spend lots of time spraying underneath and in the frame rails.
Then when I use the spray wax, I wax the underneat too.
For the body, I hand buff wax in twice a year.
Spring and fall.

Cheers,
Nick
 
Last edited:
No advocates of POR15 reading this?

I plan on using this on my frame after I re-enforce the bad areas.

I've heard nothing but great reviews for a properly applied coating. I beleive there are a few old threads regarding it already.
 
Sorry I should add.....

oiling should still be done to protect the inside bits and peices (i.e. inside of frame rails, inside doors, door sills, etc). This will also lubricate the various buried mechanisms in the doors.
 
nickw said:
Do it twice a year. Spring, and fall (before snow flies and they salt the road).
You can do it yourself if you buy the sprayer. Just make sure when you drill holes for the plugs that you paint all the metal. Would kinda defeat the purposes of spraying if you left it bare.

Cheers,
Nick
Click to expand...

Wait. drilling for the plugs??? What plugs?
 
Lantec said:
Wait. drilling for the plugs??? What plugs?
Click to expand...

In order to get the spray wand inside all the panels, it requires some holes being drilled for access. Not a huge deal. They do them on the door sills, then paint and use a plug.

Cheers.
Nick
 
Here once they have finished spraying they put a special grease around the plug hole then put the plug in.
 
i used to be (a long time ago) a supporter of POR then i saw the error of my ways..
any where you want to keep a unit rust free apply a coating that you can see through and correct. POR does not allow this. a wax based oil will help big time to making a unit last longer IF APPLIED CORRECTLY and at least once a year perferably twice a year.
if it is a unit that you just want toextend the life for a couple years then do what you wish. personally i never keep a unit long enough to worry about it.

i watched the crown guys in Ontario go to work, big job, very few holes but in the right spots.
what type of unit are you prepping? if it is a 70 series there are lots of rust buckets around to figure out where the weak spots are same with 60s but not too many 80s.
personally if you don't want rust then don't drive the unit in winter, buy a civic and drive that as a winter beater and put the baby back on the road after they sweep the streets in the spring...
cheers
 
crushers said:
i used to be (a long time ago) a supporter of POR then i saw the error of my ways..
any where you want to keep a unit rust free apply a coating that you can see through and correct. POR does not allow this. a wax based oil will help big time to making a unit last longer IF APPLIED CORRECTLY and at least once a year perferably twice a year.
if it is a unit that you just want toextend the life for a couple years then do what you wish. personally i never keep a unit long enough to worry about it.

i watched the crown guys in Ontario go to work, big job, very few holes but in the right spots.
what type of unit are you prepping? if it is a 70 series there are lots of rust buckets around to figure out where the weak spots are same with 60s but not too many 80s.
personally if you don't want rust then don't drive the unit in winter, buy a civic and drive that as a winter beater and put the baby back on the road after they sweep the streets in the spring...
cheers
Click to expand...

The truck at hand is a BJ73

See, here's the thing, the truck officially belongs to my dad but he wants me to alternate the truck and my WRX so I can keep the mileage lower on the newer car. At first, I didn't care much about the truck, since well, I wasn't used to the diesel and it just seems really slow. As I drove it more, I've grown onto it a lot and now I don't know if I should drive my WRX in the winter or the truck since I don't want the salt on either of them. Plus whenever my dad comes back to Canada (3-4 times a year), he'll be driving the truck, which means if it does snow this year, he will be out and about in it. So I do want some protection on it.

I'll go to a Lordco and look for some waxes and spray the undercarriage with water once a week like Nick.
 
Has anyone tired a sacraficail zinc anode ? Some of the guys around Calgary have them on the frames of hot rods. They are also used to protect pipelines as well as steel hulls and boat motors from rust. All out board motors have one.
 
mjohn7 said:
Has anyone tired a sacraficail zinc anode ? Some of the guys around Calgary have them on the frames of hot rods. They are also used to protect pipelines as well as steel hulls and boat motors from rust. All out board motors have one.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the ones that send electrical currents through the frame?

Apparently some people have them but can't tell the difference whether they work or not.
 
No. They / it is bolted to the frame or attched to the body. you don't have to have an electrical current running through it. Some cars have zinc gaskets in the whele arches to protect from rust .
 
I just talked to a guy at Crappy Tire about the zinc anode thing that they sell there, and he said that as far as he knew it only worked when the vehicle was running. Doesn't seem possible that it could be true, otherwise what would be the point of having it? Anybody else heard this?

Also, are the Krown and Rustcheck products/procedures the same? One better than the other? I have both available nearby so looking for good feedback on either.
 
Endless I thought I had sesponed to this thread..
Guess I was dreaming..

The procedures are the same for both krown and rust check.
Not sure though of the differences in the stuff they spray..

The place I go to (Krown) here is great..
I kinda got to know the guy that dose the spraying due to the truck..
In the end he asked me if I wanted it soaked.. Of course I said yes please..
And he did exactly that ..I was there 2 1/2 hrs. He really did a number on the truck.. I will be going back there in a week or so..
Total cost about $126.00.

I have had cars rust checked as well but you know I can not say one is better than the other.. It all depends on who sprays your vehicle, how good it will be in the end..

Hope this helps.
 
Sounds like your on the right wave length.
The technique is everything when it comes to the application of the product..

Good luck and let us know how you feel you made out with which ever product you choose..
 
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