Undercoating and Paint recommendations

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What are you all using for undercoating and paint protection?

I am looking into Valugard for undercoating now offered by linex. Is anyone familiar with this brand of undercoating? Apparently it also helps dampen noise. Can anyone verify this claim?


For paint protection, expel wrap and ceramic Pro. Any better recommendations would be welcomed.
 
 

Does this need to be (re)applied annually, just like Fluid Film or Wookwax?
 
Does this need to be (re)applied annually, just like Fluid Film or Wookwax?
website says:

How often should NH Oil Undercoating ® be applied?

While driving habits may vary, we recommend an annual application in order to maintain adequate protection.

price starts at $650 for SUVs, and that includes up to 2hrs prep
 
I am having my local LineX do the undercoating with valugard 7yr. warranty. Total cost $599. I’ll take before and after photos with a 6mo. and 1yr follow up. This is not a yearly treatment process to maintain the warranty.
 
I am having my local LineX do the undercoating with valugard 7yr. warranty. Total cost $599. I’ll take before and after photos with a 6mo. and 1yr follow up. This is not a yearly treatment process to maintain the warranty.

also in search for the best possible anti-corrosion solution. Since my 100 didn’t show signs of rust until about year 12, will the 7-year warranty be renewed if the undercoating is reapplied after 7 years?
 
also in search for the best possible anti-corrosion solution. Since my 100 didn’t show signs of rust until about year 12, will the 7-year warranty be renewed if the undercoating is reapplied after 7 years?
I’m not sure, so let me ask when I take it in on Monday but I believe so. It would have been a longer warranty had I taken it in when it was brand new
 
Does this need to be (re)applied annually, just like Fluid Film or Wookwax?

I had my 200 done just before Thanksgiving, it was $279 for the treatment. I actually had it done at a shop that is much closer to me (Auto+Medics), they use the NH Undercoating product. Yes, they recommend a re-treat annually, but it's a lot cheaper. They also recommend if the vehicle is new, to give it a year or 2 for some minor surface rust to start forming prior to treatment, this gives the material a place to "grab" onto the undercarraige. I was worried my truck was starting to get a little crusty, but it's all shiny new looking now.

I still smell it occasionally when I get out after driving.
 
I would not recommend any kind of undercoating treatment that attracts dirt and road debris, so make sure it’s the type that cures. Having to do it yearly is more expensive vs a one and done for 7yrs. If rust starts to develop before the 7yr mark, they will do the process all over again and no charge. You can’t beat that 😉
 
There is no one local to me so I do Fluid Film. So far so good!
 
I know there a many threads with undercoating info on Mud, but I'll chime in here with a couple thoughts. Undercoatings that cure are critical to apply correctly. Make sure you have an experienced, skilled technician who will take the time to do the job right. Adhesion is the key, because any areas that don't adhere well, or get damaged with a rock chip, create a place where rust will be MUCH worse. The water/salt/whatever will get under the coating and not dry out and rot the steel in places that can't be seen until it's too late. Incorrectly applied cured undercoating can also be a big problem with fasteners, both the plastic clips and bolts. For example, a thick layer of hard undercoating in the KDSS bolts would be a challenge to dig out to use an allen key. I use Fluid Film and would rather deal with that than worry about loose cured "paint" corroding underneath.
 
I have tried just about every type and style of undercoating out there, and here's what I've found:

I would never use a rigid rubberized undercoating, ie: Ziebart. Dunno about the LineX material, but if it's anything like the bedliner, that is a hard NO. Eventually water WILL get under it, and then by the time you figure this out, it's too late. Here's a good video that shows you why:



The BEST material/method I've found so far is cheap 90W gear lube with some paraffin wax. Heat up a big can of it on the gas grille, chuck in a few bricks of paraffin so they melt. Then pour this into a metal garden sprayer and go to town. When you're done spraying, take it for a quick ride down a dirt road. Yup, the fine dirt mixes in and makes a goopy but very flexible coating. But do this for a few years, and eventually you get this awesome coating that water can't penetrate, and unless you are using a pressure washer and a degreaser, it won't wash off. The downside is that it makes a huge mess, it stinks, and that stuff gets all over you when you are working under the truck. The PO of my '87 Xcab pickup did this religiously, and when I pulled that truck apart many years and miles later, every bolt came right out, and there was NOTHING to repair. It took me awhile to get it all off with the pressure washer, but the frame looked pristine, still had the factory paint, and the sandblaster was even shocked at how nice it looked.

I use Fluid Film quite a bit, but I do know it washes off. The underside of my Miata is marinating it in now, but that car never gets driven in foul winter weather, and rarely even in the rain. Stinks for a few days (smells like wet socks).

Amsoil Metal Protector is great stuff!! I keep a few cans in the garage, I like to use it on things that are exposed or will need to be handled. The ex's '04 Highlander (230K miles) has many coats of it on the trailer hitch, and it looks new. But it's expensive, and hard to find (unless you have a Preferred account).

The stuff under the Cruiser now is gradually curing, I think it will be very effective as I add coats annually. But... I'm not doing it. It's such a messy job, I'm at a point now that I'd rather pay someone else to do it.
 
I have tried just about every type and style of undercoating out there, and here's what I've found:

I would never use a rigid rubberized undercoating, ie: Ziebart. Dunno about the LineX material, but if it's anything like the bedliner, that is a hard NO. Eventually water WILL get under it, and then by the time you figure this out, it's too late. Here's a good video that shows you why:



The BEST material/method I've found so far is cheap 90W gear lube with some paraffin wax. Heat up a big can of it on the gas grille, chuck in a few bricks of paraffin so they melt. Then pour this into a metal garden sprayer and go to town. When you're done spraying, take it for a quick ride down a dirt road. Yup, the fine dirt mixes in and makes a goopy but very flexible coating. But do this for a few years, and eventually you get this awesome coating that water can't penetrate, and unless you are using a pressure washer and a degreaser, it won't wash off. The downside is that it makes a huge mess, it stinks, and that stuff gets all over you when you are working under the truck. The PO of my '87 Xcab pickup did this religiously, and when I pulled that truck apart many years and miles later, every bolt came right out, and there was NOTHING to repair. It took me awhile to get it all off with the pressure washer, but the frame looked pristine, still had the factory paint, and the sandblaster was even shocked at how nice it looked.

I use Fluid Film quite a bit, but I do know it washes off. The underside of my Miata is marinating it in now, but that car never gets driven in foul winter weather, and rarely even in the rain. Stinks for a few days (smells like wet socks).

Amsoil Metal Protector is great stuff!! I keep a few cans in the garage, I like to use it on things that are exposed or will need to be handled. The ex's '04 Highlander (230K miles) has many coats of it on the trailer hitch, and it looks new. But it's expensive, and hard to find (unless you have a Preferred account).

The stuff under the Cruiser now is gradually curing, I think it will be very effective as I add coats annually. But... I'm not doing it. It's such a messy job, I'm at a point now that I'd rather pay someone else to do it.


LINE-X does not use linex for undercoating. They partnered with Valugard and it is similar to a wax base. Look it up, it’s seems pretty good.
 
also in search for the best possible anti-corrosion solution. Since my 100 didn’t show signs of rust until about year 12, will the 7-year warranty be renewed if the undercoating is reapplied after 7 years?
Hey Angelo...I'm interested in doing this as well. Do you know if the Valugard treats the existing rust and protects? I bought my LC with moderate rust. I'm not overly concerned about future rust but would like to treat it from getting worse.
 
Hey Angelo...I'm interested in doing this as well. Do you know if the Valugard treats the existing rust and protects? I bought my LC with moderate rust. I'm not overly concerned about future rust but would like to treat it from getting worse.

Valugard does not treat existing rust but the LINE-X(at least mine nearby) uses a different product that he spot treats converting the rust before applying the Valugard. He also makes sure to avoid the wheel wells and other others of frame where Toyota uses a special black coating over some of the welds.
 
Many thanks..I'll talk to the local dealer here in memphis and see what they can do and how much of this they've done.
 
Well, local Linex dealer doesn't do undercoating spray due to lack of demand here. In fact, he doesn't think anyone in Memphis does this b/c of our climate. What kind of auto shops might offer FF spraying? I need to do something about this rust to stop from getting worse and clean it up.
 
What kind of auto shops might offer FF spraying?

You can buy spray cans of FF/Woolwax and DIY, which ought to serve you well in your mild climate - especially if you can't find someone to apply it.
 
Use ff/Woolwax if you like an oily mess.

Use cosmoline (rp342) if you want a permanent dry solution
 

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