- Location
- United States
Would appreciate some advise please. The asking price is $12K.
For Sale Undercarriage rust - 2000 LC 108K miles - the experts say?
- Thread starter Magicncq
- Start date
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Would appreciate some advise please. The asking price is $12K.
- Thread starter
- #3
I was going to walk at $10K. provided the corrosion isn't a show stopper. The guy clearly has put a premium on the low mileage
That's probably good. Low mileage on a truck that goes for 100's of thousands of miles isn't necessarily that important. As far as the rust, it's not great and everyone in the north will say "not that bad" and everyone in the south with say "run, run fast, wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole." Wish I could be more helpful.
- Thread starter
- #5
4Beast, I like your perspective. I often get laser focused on one vehicle and don't know when to live and fight another day. Getting a vehicle with 40K miles less really doesn't matter when I will be driving the LC well past 400K.
I'm in SoCal, so we don't see rust. I just don't know how big of a deal it is. What is the real fear? That it will corrode so much the car falls apart? Is it a maintenance issue, meaning all the bolts, connectors, etc will need to be replaced? Is it a saftey issue? I honestly don't know why the rust is bad, and if only a lot of rust is bad, some rust is OK, etc.
^^^What he said, if you're concerned about what you can see, drop the skids and check places like front sway bar mounting brackets, etc.
I have lived in the rust belt my whole life and I do feel like this site is very alarmist about rust. It takes a whole lot of time and an awful lot of neglect to cause mechanical issues - and when it does, it's not all that hard to fix. There are plenty of late 90's/early 2000 Dodge pickups on the road around here still and they've gotta take the cake for rot.....but they get plenty of people to work every day.
There are owners in my area who bought their rigs here in Iowa, never crawl underneath for anything, and they're still going down the road same as mine is, some after 15 midwest winters, FWIW.
I have lived in the rust belt my whole life and I do feel like this site is very alarmist about rust. It takes a whole lot of time and an awful lot of neglect to cause mechanical issues - and when it does, it's not all that hard to fix. There are plenty of late 90's/early 2000 Dodge pickups on the road around here still and they've gotta take the cake for rot.....but they get plenty of people to work every day.
There are owners in my area who bought their rigs here in Iowa, never crawl underneath for anything, and they're still going down the road same as mine is, some after 15 midwest winters, FWIW.
NicaNorth
Supporting Vendor
It doesn’t look terrible. Every chassis has its weak spot. You just need to know what to look for and where to find it.
For example, nearly every GM truck in New England with rot issues can be found in one of two places:
- The Passenger side frame rail where the body mount point is welded to the frame - just as the rail starts to curve upward toward the engine
- The crossmember mid-way down the chassis that goes over the fuel tank. The inner section always gives was and it’s where you’ll find patch welds
In terms of the 100 Series Land Cruiser, I’ve seen super clean frames and then fully corroded examples Where there is no trace of factory paint. Rarely have I seen a fully compromised frame, but the couple I have seen were rotted through the rear trailing arm mounting point on the chassis.
Usually, the main frame rails will remain solid even in the rustbelt. The first places to start a frame inspection is at every single mounting point (body mounts, crossmembers, suspension mounts etc). Anything welded to the main rails should be thouroghly inspected, which means poking questionable areas with a hard, blunt object like a brass punch or something similar.
I feel like people see rust and run without even inspecting it and very often run away from a really good deal.
For example, nearly every GM truck in New England with rot issues can be found in one of two places:
- The Passenger side frame rail where the body mount point is welded to the frame - just as the rail starts to curve upward toward the engine
- The crossmember mid-way down the chassis that goes over the fuel tank. The inner section always gives was and it’s where you’ll find patch welds
In terms of the 100 Series Land Cruiser, I’ve seen super clean frames and then fully corroded examples Where there is no trace of factory paint. Rarely have I seen a fully compromised frame, but the couple I have seen were rotted through the rear trailing arm mounting point on the chassis.
Usually, the main frame rails will remain solid even in the rustbelt. The first places to start a frame inspection is at every single mounting point (body mounts, crossmembers, suspension mounts etc). Anything welded to the main rails should be thouroghly inspected, which means poking questionable areas with a hard, blunt object like a brass punch or something similar.
I feel like people see rust and run without even inspecting it and very often run away from a really good deal.
sammybones
Study in Moppishness
Too many out there with no rust. Find one of those.
