UCA’s needed? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dalt103
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I have the Dobinson 2.5 mrr kit with similar tire and have the UCA works very well and allows for better articulation with the larger tire and lift.
re_guderian
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I'm also on a 2" lift, 275/70/17, 17x7.5 +10 wheels, and no rub (with heat gun fender mod). My caster is just barely under the lower spec with the OEM UCAs, but the truck handles acceptably well, not squirrelly at all. While I'd like another 1.5-2° of caster, given the current handling, I'm not quite ready to drop a thousand bucks to get it right now. I'd rather do front bumper with that money. I did run SPC's on my 100 series with over 4° of caster and loved the way the rig drove, so will likely eventual get there, but at 2", with sliders, skids, and front bumper planned (which will make lift likely a tad bit lower) not going to pull the trigger unless I win the lottery... 
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re_guderian
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Along those lines, one other thing you might consider is rolling under your truck and looking at the position of your lower control arm eccentric bolts. Mine are not "maxed out" in terms of moving the LCA all the way forward (rear LCA bolt outboard, forward LCA bolt inboard = move the knuckle forward as far as possible - I think
). If you're going to get a front bumper anyway, you'll likely want to do this to get clearance for the body mount, you won't have to worry about rubbing the fender liner at the front of the wheel well anyway, AND it should improve your caster (give you more negative caster). I might could eke out a bit more caster from the OEM arms by having a good alignment shop play with it some more. But as you say, the cash adds up quick! $500 per degree of extra caster for UCA's, vs a hundred bucks or so for an alignment... - Thread starter
- #8
So went ahead and tried the fit without aftermarket UCA’s. Eventually will spend $ for some but not at this time. Looking into sliders-like RSG at the moment. Searching daily tho so anyone that likes some enough to mention let me know. Had some rubbing on the fender. Heat gun and some maneuvering and all is well.
Keep in mind, the caster adjustment with UCAs is not just wheel clearance, it can help greatly help with highway driving characteristics.
When driving highway speeds, the caster without UCAs can cause a more "darty" feel in steering, so UCAs can fix that at well...ask me how I know (last vehicle, not the GX).
When driving highway speeds, the caster without UCAs can cause a more "darty" feel in steering, so UCAs can fix that at well...ask me how I know (last vehicle, not the GX).
WTITW
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I came for the exact same question today. I don't wheel hard, mostly just forrest roads. Does it feel like it's more squirrel at all since the lift? Did the alignment shop tell you how much the caster was out/how much adjustment was left with the stock UCA's?
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No he just said he had no trouble with alignment. I asked him about UCA’s-said I didn’t need them but would help more so Offroad. Honestly I was expecting a different feel altogether with everything I changed. The ride and steering response is pretty much the same as it was before. The only thing I would have changed was the lift (2.5” front and 2” back). To level out a little better. I did 2”front with front arb bumper and 2”back. So front dips just enough to bug me! I had nitto grappler G2’s (18”)and went to cooper at3 xlt’s (17”)also.
WTITW
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Great. I don't think I really need them either. You could adjust the pre-load on the struts for that extra .5" you're looking for couldn't you? Thanks for the info!
short answer, aftermarkets will provide greater options to move the caster to prevent rubbing. as per which aftermarket has the most versatility, it is SPC UCA which also makes you future proof if you wanted to go 35s
WTITW
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Ah, I assumed you went with IMS. I just checked out their IMS page and it says they recommend UCS's with 2.5" lift or more. I assume it's the same for other lines like the twin tube as well.
People swore that I wouldn't need UCAs for my 4Runner lifting it only 1.75"
The truck didnt have near enough caster and wandered all over the highway. It was totally drivable but felt significantly worse to drive, especially at speed.
So no, you dont NEED them but it will drive much better if you do get them.
The truck didnt have near enough caster and wandered all over the highway. It was totally drivable but felt significantly worse to drive, especially at speed.
So no, you dont NEED them but it will drive much better if you do get them.
Pretty sure the IMS and MRR shocks are the same, the MRR just comes with a revivor. My IMS has a port that looks to be the same as what is on the MRR.
I have a 2" lift on Dob IMS with heavy springs and running 265/70r17 tires with - 12 offset wheels, using stock UCAs. Im also running a front bumper, sliders, double drawers and a roof rack. Before I got my setup I searched to see if the suspension setup would work well and I couldn't find a clear answer.
I was able to get a good alignment with the stock UCAs and the car drives great, much better than stock but that could be because my stock shocks were worn at 75k miles. Plus, before I got my suspension and wheels, I had the bumper and sliders installed so that didn't help matters with the added weight on stock suspension. However, with the wheel/tire setup I did have rubbing on the liners and on the notorious bolt. I used a heat gun on the liners and trimmed down the bolt head to stop the rubbing.
I don't notice anything "off" with the handling until I hit higher speeds north of 80mph but even then it's not what I would call squirrely. But I do plan on getting UCAs in the future when I go bigger on tires. I think you should get UCAs when you need them but it all depends on your plans and use for your car.
I was able to get a good alignment with the stock UCAs and the car drives great, much better than stock but that could be because my stock shocks were worn at 75k miles. Plus, before I got my suspension and wheels, I had the bumper and sliders installed so that didn't help matters with the added weight on stock suspension. However, with the wheel/tire setup I did have rubbing on the liners and on the notorious bolt. I used a heat gun on the liners and trimmed down the bolt head to stop the rubbing.
I don't notice anything "off" with the handling until I hit higher speeds north of 80mph but even then it's not what I would call squirrely. But I do plan on getting UCAs in the future when I go bigger on tires. I think you should get UCAs when you need them but it all depends on your plans and use for your car.
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