Two Shareable Discount Codes for FatMat (1 Viewer)

[Old Nick]

Hi, All,

I'm having very a good experience installing FatMat (don't work for them, have no association with them whatsoever). My order came with two discount codes, which say "Don't be greedy share us with your friends". They're meant to be shared, so here are the codes:
5% off $100 or more: GETFAT5
8% off of $250 or more: GETFAT8
If you're thinking about sound deadening/insulation, you can save a few bucks.

All the best,
O.N.

 

[Spike Strip]

Which one did you buy, the 80-mil and how much of it.

Thanks for the codes, btw.

 

[Miloslavich]

Thanks for the codes! how much did you go with to line a 60?

anyone know if you can put their "floor Liner" on top of the fatmat? seems like the way to go

 

[Old Nick]

Which one did you buy, the 80-mil and how much of it.

Thanks for the codes, btw.

No worries re: the codes. Glad to help. I ordered the Mega Mat Butyl Bulk Pack. It's 70-mils. Ordered 100 sq. ft. kit that came with the roller and knife. I've only got the cargo cards lined now, but will be doing the floor (x2 over the wheel wells and transmission/gear selector, etc.). If there is any left over, I'll do the doors. Haven't considered doing doing the roof, but may do, but that will likely require more square footage. It's been a very easy to use product.
Hope that this helps.
All the best,
O.N.

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks for the codes! how much did you go with to line a 60?

anyone know if you can put their "floor Liner" on top of the fatmat? seems like the way to go

No worries, man, glad to help. 100 sq. ft. I'm redoing my carpet with @dnp 's 6 piece kit. It comes with backer installed. The only pieces that need to be glued down per his instructions are the wheel wells and tailgate. The fat mat is thin, but heavy duty. Adding liner above it shouldn't be any problem as far as I can tell.
All the best,
O.N.

 

[Miloslavich]

Megamat, RattleTrap or Fatmat?

looks like RattleTrap is the thickest at 80mil, but Megamat is their "true butyl" product, at 70mil.

How important is true butyl vs. their other products?

rattle trap is advertised as "3X's more effective than leading sound deadeners!"

 

[Old Nick]

Megamat, RattleTrap or Fatmat?

looks like RattleTrap is the thickest at 80mil, but Megamat is their "true butyl" product, at 70mil.

How important is true butyl vs. their other products?

rattle trap is advertised as "3X's more effective than leading sound deadeners!"

Sorry, Milosavich, I used Meg Mat. The 70 mil thickness was just right for the new cargo cards that I made. I've attached the Mega Mat to the front/interior of the cards, and will put the original carpet back over them. When I finish getting the interior out of my truck, the plan is to line the floor with a double application over the wheel wells and hump.

I did a lot of research on "butyl vs. asphalt" ,"butyl vs. foam", "butyl vs. spray on" and the general consensus (at least what I was able to find) is that butyl products, even though they are often thinner than asphalt and other foam applications tend to be better for sound deadening, but there are some very good spray on products, which can be as good, or better than butyl. There is a ton of debate about this. I chose the Mega Mat because it fit what I was looking for.

I'll post up some pics of the cards that I made with the Mega Mat attached - a little later today.

All the best,
O.N.

 

[MoaByte]

Sorry, Milosavich, I used Meg Mat. The 70 mil thickness was just right for the new cargo cards that I made. I've attached the Mega Mat to the front/interior of the cards, and will put the original carpet back over them. When I finish getting the interior out of my truck, the plan is to line the floor with a double application over the wheel wells and hump.

I did a lot of research on "butyl vs. asphalt" ,"butyl vs. foam", "butyl vs. spray on" and the general consensus (at least what I was able to find) is that butyl products, even though they are often thinner than asphalt and other foam applications tend to be better for sound deadening, but there are some very good spray on products, which can be as good, or better than butyl. There is a ton of debate about this. I chose the Mega Mat because it fit what I was looking for.

I'll post up some pics of the cards that I made with the Mega Mat attached - a little later today.

All the best,
O.N.

It certainly couldn't hurt to put it on the cards, but I would want it on the inside of the quarter panel and door skins. I only got one door done while replacing the door handle and it made a huge difference. I forgot the brand, but it's the thin butyl stuff with aluminum foil. I learned that I wanted the thicker stuff for the cargo area.
Thanks for the codes

 

[NMC_EXP]

My career was in rubber technology. For me the use of butyl rubber in this application is interesting.

For most rubber components the property called "resilience" is important. Think how much it would bounce or stretch and snap back.

The only common use butyl rubber I'm aware of was for inner tubes and tubeless tire inner liners. Reason being is butyl rubber resists permeation by pressurized gas better than all other types.

For most apps the downside of butyl is its very low resilience - not very rubber like. In the R&D lab we had a mold to make rubber balls. Just for giggles we made balls with butyl and with polybutadiene rubber.

The polybutadiene balls had about 75% rebound - if you dropped one from 100 inches it would bounce 75 inches. In other words it gives back 75% of energy imposed on it.

When you dropped a butyl ball it seemed like it stuck to the floor - almost no bounce. For a home comparison take a piece of inner tube, stretch it and notice it does not stretch much and how it does not "snap back" the way a rubber band does.

The take-away is that butyl rubber absorbs and holds almost all of the energy that is imposed on it.

For that reason butyl rubber might make a very good sound deadener.

p.s. In case its not obvious, I enjoyed my career screwing around with rubber and am likely to bore the rest of you with Rubber Tech 101 class.

 

[Old Nick]

My career was in rubber technology. For me the use of butyl rubber in this application is interesting.

For most rubber components the property called "resilience" is important. Think how much it would bounce or stretch and snap back.

The only common use butyl rubber I'm aware of was for inner tubes and tubeless tire inner liners. Reason is butyl rubber resists permeation by pressurized gas better than all other types.

For most apps the downside of butyl is its very low resilience - not very rubber like. In the R&D lab we had a mold to make rubber balls. Just for giggles we made balls with butyl and with polybutadiene rubber.

The polybutadiene balls had about 75% resilience - if you dropped one from 100 inches it would bounce 75 inches. In other words it gives back 75% of energy imposed on it.

When you dropped a butyl ball it seemed like it stuck to the floor - almost no bounce. For a home comparison take a piece of inner tube, stretch it and notice how it does not "snap back" the way a rubber band does.

The take-away is that butyl rubber absorbs and holds almost all of the energy that is imposed on it.

For that reason butyl rubber might make a very good sound deadener.

p.s. In case its not obvious, I enjoyed my career screwing around with rubber.

This is fascinating. I really appreciate you sharing the science behind the butyl. I have no experience with it, but after doing research, it seemed like a good option. In all honesty, I don't mind the sounds that my truck makes (including that little chirp from the tail gate), but spending a little time adding some modernizing conveniences has been lots of fun. I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Old Nick]

It certainly couldn't hurt to put it on the cards, but I would want it on the inside of the quarter panel and door skins. I only got one door done while replacing the door handle and it made a huge difference. I forgot the brand, but it's the thin butyl stuff with aluminum foil. I learned that I wanted the thicker stuff for the cargo area.
Thanks for the codes

If I have any of the Mega Mat left, I will put in on the interior skins and quarters. (only ordered 100 sq. ft. Doing the whole truck would probably take 150 or so) Putting it on the cards won't make a huge difference, but I thought heck, while I making new ones, it would be fun , and the butyl ought to help with insulation too.
No worries on the codes.
Take it easy.

 

[NMC_EXP]

I don't mind the sounds that my truck makes (including that little chirp from the tail gate), but spending a little time adding some modernizing conveniences has been lots of fun. I will let you know how it goes.

My FJ60 makes a lot of noise. Like you it does not bother me.

I listen to it all the time - waiting to hear some new or different noise. Sort of an early warning system of a pending failure. I'm to old to hike out of the mountains.

 

[MoaByte]

I find it funny how I can hardly hear the stereo until I pull off the highway and Deep Purple is cranked to "11". I too enjoy listening to the beast as I drive. The drone of the drivetrain is comfort as long as it sounds normal.

 

[Old Nick]

My FJ60 makes a lot of noise. Like you it does not bother me.

I listen to it all the time - waiting to hear some new or different or different noise. Sort of an early warning system of a pending failure. I'm to old to hike out of the mountains.

Yes, there is something special about the mechanical noises that our trucks make. I haven't had a new noise in a little while (knock on wood!).

 

[Old Nick]

I find it funny how I can hardly hear the stereo until I pull off the highway and Deep Purple is cranked to "11". I too enjoy listening to the beast as I drive. The drone of the drivetrain is comfort as long as it sounds normal.

Totally agree with you and dig the Spinal Tap reference . I've only got one functioning speaker at the moment... the stereo is on my list. The speaker I do have is in the front passenger door. So, if I try to listen to music a highway speeds, my right ear takes a beating. I've decided not to ruin my hearing and only turn on the tunes when in town taking it easy.

 

[Spook50]

No worries, man, glad to help. 100 sq. ft. I'm redoing my carpet with @dnp 's 6 piece kit. It comes with backer installed. The only pieces that need to be glued down per his instructions are the wheel wells and tailgate. The fat mat is thin, but heavy duty. Adding liner above it shouldn't be any problem as far as I can tell.
All the best,
O.N.

By backer are you referring to the jute backing? If yes are you planning on doing FatMat on the floor and just laying the carpet over that? It's what I was considering doing, depending on how effectively it insulates heat versus a dedicated full thermally stable carpet pad/liner underneath. I REALLY want carpet back in my 62!

 

[MarkBC]

My concern with putting on sound deadener is rust creep underneath. From what I've seen in videos it is super sticky. I have rust bubbles at various locations that you can never truly get rid of if they are at a seam etc. So what happens if I put this stuff on and the rust grows under there for the next 10 years unknown? It looks like it would be a nightmare to get off. What if you only removed the plastic backing at a few small locations on each sheet? Then you won't have sticky goop everywhere and would only have a few spots to clean up if you did want to remove it. But then it won't be sticking to the whole surface of metal, so might not give effective sound deadening?

 

[MoaByte]

My concern with putting on sound deadener is rust creep underneath. From what I've seen in videos it is super sticky. I have rust bubbles at various locations that you can never truly get rid of if they are at a seam etc. So what happens if I put this stuff on and the rust grows under there for the next 10 years unknown? It looks like it would be a nightmare to get off. What if you only removed the plastic backing at a few small locations on each sheet? Then you won't have sticky goop everywhere and would only have a few spots to clean up if you did want to remove it. But then it won't be sticking to the whole surface of metal, so might not give effective sound deadening?

I think you are right. Instead of leaving the backing on, just cut it to leave those areas open. I understand that if you can only apply it to the tinny sounding areas (nuckle tap test) it still helps a bunch. When I did my passenger door I only applied it to areas where I could roll it and avoided the bottom 4 inches. It made an amazing difference. Closing that one door gives a satisfying thud. My interior is due for gutting, but has taken a backseat to all the other things that are wearing out after 34 years if faithful service. Carpet, door panels, seats are all in need of TLC.v

 

[Old Nick]

By backer are you referring to the jute backing? If yes are you planning on doing FatMat on the floor and just laying the carpet over that? It's what I was considering doing, depending on how effectively it insulates heat versus a dedicated full thermally stable carpet pad/liner underneath. I REALLY want carpet back in my 62!

Sorry, yes, referring to the jute. FatMat (Mega Mat) on the floor and carpet directly over it. David @dnp has been very helpful. My six piece carpet set arrived on Friday. Installed the new tailgate carpet on the new card that I cut - it fit like a glove, and it looks amazing. He recommended that I only use glue on the tailgate carpet/card and on the wheel well carpet (I'll follow his advice on that). I'm going to play around with the latter. My OEM covers are in good shape. Might/might not install carpet over the wells.

My original carpet wasn't completely trashed, but it was very faded. The new carpet from David looks OEM, and it is lovely dark brown. Getting excited to install carpet in the whole truck.

All the best,
O.N.

 

[Old Nick]

I think you are right. Instead of leaving the backing on, just cut it to leave those areas open. I understand that if you can only apply it to the tinny sounding areas (nuckle tap test) it still helps a bunch. When I did my passenger door I only applied it to areas where I could roll it and avoided the bottom 4 inches. It made an amazing difference. Closing that one door gives a satisfying thud. My interior is due for gutting, but has taken a backseat to all the other things that are wearing out after 34 years if faithful service. Carpet, door panels, seats are all in need of TLC.v

I've been debating this too. I've gone over the cargo area and found almost not rust. What I little I did find, I scuffed to expose it and treated with "Black Star". Planning to treat the entire undercarriage with it too.

The Mega Mat is VERY sticky. Getting it up would be difficult to say the least. But, at this point at least, I'm planning to line the entire floor and wells. In five years, I might regret it, but hopefully the pre-work that I'm putting in will help a good deal.

All the best,
O.N.