Two questions I'm not finding answers to.. (brakes)

[whodkne]

Searched and searched.. printed out the stoptech brake removal instructions (they do good writeups!) and have new rotors and pads. I wanted to confirm on a few things.

1. Fluid.. I thought someone mentioned it was a dot-3 fluid, is that correct? If so, can I use any standard off the shelf fluid?

2. Seals.. cruiserdan got the pads and rotors for me, I asked him in PM about the seals, waiting on that reply. Are they just the hub seeals and just on the front? So in essence two pieces I need in total?

3. Bearings.. 80k miles on the LC so I am guessing I should just repack the bearings? If so, what kind of lube, grease, etc do I need? And is the repacking just putting some grease in your hand and pushing it into the bearing or is the more to it?

Thanks!

 

[LXPearl]

On my 2001 the brake fluid is DOT 3, but I would not use just any DOT 3 off the shelf. My past experience with rust in brake lines has given me respect for the additives in the Toyota brake fluid. I have not had rust in the brake lines of my Toyotas where I have faithfully used the Toyota brake fluid.

I also like the Toyota brake pads, so I think you have done well there.

I have not done the seals and bearings on an LC/LX, so I will be interested in what others say there.

 

[spressomon]

I can't argue the finer more technical points of brake fluid but I am currently using Valvoline Syn brake fluid ("exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4")...tastes great; less filling.

OK...on to what you will want to refresh when you have your front hubs apart for the rotor install. If the current bearings have been maintained and the grease around the bearings (and maybe less than 100k on odometer) is relatively clean when you get it apart I would just re-use the bearings. Make sure you keep the bearings matched to DS and PS. Clean them really well; remove all the old grease inside the hub; invest the $20 for a Lisle (get it at Sears) bearing greaser tool (purges the old bearing grease while replenishing the bearing with new, clean grease).

I would recommend replacing:

Keyed outer lock washer (1-each per DS/PS).
Hub flange gasket.
Snap ring.
Grease cap (you could get by without replacing this if yours comes off in good shape).
Cone washers (I think you could get by without replacing these if yours are in good shape and not rusty/corroded.
Inner bearing/hub oil seal.

FYI: The FSM states to replace all of the above with a brake job PLUS inner/outer bearings and races; Dust cover gasket with oil seal and gasket (this is the oil seal that is bolted to the brake rotor Dust Cover).

 

[Jim_Chow]

I've also noticed that the FSM specs to replace the cone washer (the nuts I think, not sure about the cones themselves). Funny that the 4runner doesn't. I've reused mine multiple times, also on the original Koyo bearings at 200K mi. I've used both Valvoline moly MP grease and (last time) Amsoil red MP grease. I've also reused the lock washer w/o issues, but now I just replace them (use a large screwdriver to bend the tabs back in/out). You might want to buy a spare axle locknut, as those things are soft compared to the spindle. First time I repacked, I stripped out a nut. Of course it was on a weekend, but only 1 hr before closing, and the dealer had one in stock. If you don't drive in water, the bearings can go a longer than 30K before repacking.

In 2 of my cars, I use the Valvoline dot 4 fluid. In the 100, I've yet to flush the brakes (will do that before the summer). One thing I do notice about the Valvoline is in hot weather (AZ), it tends to turn tan by the end of the summer (starts out clear). Anyone have similar/different experiences w/ Toyota fluid? No idea if the valvoline has any additives. If you have the dealer do the work, I'd specify to use Toyota fluid. Reason is, one time I was at the local toy dealer and an autoparts truck made a delivery of a case of el cheapo dot 3 brake fluid! (not brand name) This implies to me that this is what they use there.

 

[whodkne]

Thanks for the input.. guess I need to go get the grease gun and some grease. I'll give cruiserdan the list of parts and go from there. This should be a fun maint day. I've done brakes on my miata and I'm gonna on my TT but nothing on the LC before and it seems WAY more involved, so should be a good learning experience.

 

[spressomon]

Thanks for the input.. guess I need to go get the grease gun and some grease. I'll give cruiserdan the list of parts and go from there. This should be a fun maint day. I've done brakes on my miata and I'm gonna on my TT but nothing on the LC before and it seems WAY more involved, so should be a good learning experience.

The rear's are easy...

 

[whodkne]

Another quick question... can I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease for the repacking or do I need to get a "MP" multipurpose grease for bearings?

 

[spressomon]

Another quick question... can I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease for the repacking or do I need to get a "MP" multipurpose grease for bearings?

I would like input on this as well...FYI: I have successfully used StaLube Boat Trailer bearing grease in the past when extreme water resistant grease was needed. It really works great if you are doing any kinda water work...but the down side is it's relatively high freezing point...so no good in our winter climate here.

 

[whodkne]

So any input on the two open items? Is it ok to use Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease and is regular Dot-3 fluid ok, or do you have to use the Toyota stuff?