FWIW - The Hygrade kit 791B I used had the needle Jim C. is referencing. I purchased the Hygrade 791B from Rockauto.com for my '76 Aisan carb, but I also used part of a Keyster kit for the needed primary & secondary jets.
Two Questions If I May - 2F Engine
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GA, big thanks, I will check the website out.
My only concern is with any type of rubber/cork product such as a rubber tipped needle is the possibilities of failure due to cracking/swelling caused by alcohol based Ethanol. I'm sure that most US based manufactures may have fixed the issue, its the others imports the concern me.
Again thanks
Merry X Mas
My only concern is with any type of rubber/cork product such as a rubber tipped needle is the possibilities of failure due to cracking/swelling caused by alcohol based Ethanol. I'm sure that most US based manufactures may have fixed the issue, its the others imports the concern me.
Again thanks
Merry X Mas
And a Merry Christmas as well..........As for the viton tip on the needle in the Hygrade 791B kit, it is the route you want to go, no concerns.
My $.02 worth - There are words of wisdom posted by some very knowledgeable Land Cruiser mechanics on here. (Note, I'm and in no shape, form, fashion, or even remotely close to being in that group; but the "Underhood Janitor" is.)
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- #44
Been looking at the kit 791B, it does not incorporate my Toyota carburetor part number but does include the years 87-81 US which is good. I am pretty sure that the needle and seat maybe the same but I think I will post a picture of what I have in size (tall) for comparison before shelling out the $50 (after shipping) just in case since I have a non US carb.
Your $.02 worth is now worth $50, hey thanks much.
Your $.02 worth is now worth $50, hey thanks much.
That's Cruiser Inflation for ya.....Been looking at the kit 791B, it does not incorporate my Toyota carburetor part number but does include the years 87-81 US which is good. I am pretty sure that the needle and seat maybe the same but I think I will post a picture of what I have in size (tall) for comparison before shelling out the $50 (after shipping) just in case since I have a non US carb.
Your $.02 worth is now worth $50, hey thanks much.
Only if my savings or money market accounts would do that!
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The needle is the same, 1970-1990sumthin. The seat is same 75-90sumthin.
Not sure why Toyota shows a different PN for needle & seat in ROW carbs. There is no visible difference. Been using the same rebuild kit on all US and ROW carbs forever.
Not sure why Toyota shows a different PN for needle & seat in ROW carbs. There is no visible difference. Been using the same rebuild kit on all US and ROW carbs forever.
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- #47
Well as this is pretty much a daily driver so I tossed in a new needle and seat that my friend had from over the years of working on LC. Looked to be a good candidate until my new kit arrives next week with the better needle tip as suggested. Only differences was the one on right (going to temp use) has four holes in the body and the old (left) one has two small holes. The other was the one on the right was a hair bit taller. Nothing the float adjust cant handle. Set to 6mm, fuel line shows just at the top of the window while running. Shut down, the only fuel found was dribbling out the small brass tube located in the carb throat next to the plunger side. Not to sure why maybe due to the float is a bit high?
Jim, I am learning more and more about this carb thing from you and others so I hope this posting with information and photos with be of a use to others also. I do wish that there was not so many confusing part numbers for the same dang items.
Thanks
Jim, I am learning more and more about this carb thing from you and others so I hope this posting with information and photos with be of a use to others also. I do wish that there was not so many confusing part numbers for the same dang items.
Thanks
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Both the needle/seat assemblies in the pic are aftermarket and metal tipped. Aftmkt stuff will vary in size, shape & effectiveness.
Fuel should not be dribbling out of the booster nozzle or the AP jet. Lower the float setting, see if that eliminates it.
Fuel should not be dribbling out of the booster nozzle or the AP jet. Lower the float setting, see if that eliminates it.
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Okay-noticed what was most likely causing the dribbling after shutdown, seems as the Throttle Positioning (setting) arm was making contact constantly on the shaft keeping enough pressure to were it would dribble in the throat of the carb.
The TP was set to book specs but something went wrong? Backed off for now.
The TP was set to book specs but something went wrong? Backed off for now.
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What you mean is: after shutdown, the TP was applying the throttle slightly i.e. 'positioning the throttle' and forcing a squirt out of the AP.
That's normal op. The TP is unimportant, especially on a non-smog engine. Feel free to remove & discard the TP adjust screw. Keep the rest of the linkage intact, since it's primary job is choke breaker, which is useful.
That's normal op. The TP is unimportant, especially on a non-smog engine. Feel free to remove & discard the TP adjust screw. Keep the rest of the linkage intact, since it's primary job is choke breaker, which is useful.
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- #53
Well if anything I need to post a follow up to this posting of the latest outcome.
Received the new carburetor kit #791B yesterday and today did install the new seat and valve for the float and also installed a new float that I decided wouldn't hurt.
Long story short, no change. Set the float 3 times,
1. @ 6mm- 1.1
2. set float @ 7.5-1.1
3. set to float @ 6.5mm -1.1, same.
Fuel bowl sight window when idling, barely can see the top line of the fuel level when one shakes the truck side to side. This is the same for all the adjustments mentioned.
Under load (high RPM) still the same. Adjusted speed and mixture with vacuum gauge and RPM gauge,runs good just afraid its running rich if the fuel float is high. Will check the plugs in a few days.
Good side it the leak down seems to of halted, dry shaft's, so far.
Changed the oil just incase of fuel contamination from raw fuel dripping into the intake.
Going to inspect the fuel pump to see if it may have internal problems. Also the heat valve seems a bit slow but it opens.
Last but not least get a new carb from Jim or Trollhole.
Non US, two vacuum ports.
Thanks, Merry Xmas
Received the new carburetor kit #791B yesterday and today did install the new seat and valve for the float and also installed a new float that I decided wouldn't hurt.
Long story short, no change. Set the float 3 times,
1. @ 6mm- 1.1
2. set float @ 7.5-1.1
3. set to float @ 6.5mm -1.1, same.
Fuel bowl sight window when idling, barely can see the top line of the fuel level when one shakes the truck side to side. This is the same for all the adjustments mentioned.
Under load (high RPM) still the same. Adjusted speed and mixture with vacuum gauge and RPM gauge,runs good just afraid its running rich if the fuel float is high. Will check the plugs in a few days.
Good side it the leak down seems to of halted, dry shaft's, so far.
Changed the oil just incase of fuel contamination from raw fuel dripping into the intake.
Going to inspect the fuel pump to see if it may have internal problems. Also the heat valve seems a bit slow but it opens.
Last but not least get a new carb from Jim or Trollhole.
Non US, two vacuum ports.
Thanks, Merry Xmas
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- #54
Well still fighting the carb high float issue and now fighting the flu-it doesn't get any better. So now on sick leave I decided to re-build my rebuild carburetor for therapy (right).
Plugs looking on the rich, still gapped @ 39 as per US electronic ignition dizzy installed.
When tearing down parts for the carb cleaner bucket, when removing the main 132mm jet it came out with what you see on the end of the treads. Even if this was not the culprit still needs a cleaning.
Also if someone can chime in with an answer to this question.
I know that maybe 1974 and earlier carbs venture were a bit different (triple and duel) but did they change the newer carbs with what appears too be the same venturi's for the main and secondary sides? One stamped 1 the other stamped 3. Maybe nothing.
Thanks
Plugs looking on the rich, still gapped @ 39 as per US electronic ignition dizzy installed.
When tearing down parts for the carb cleaner bucket, when removing the main 132mm jet it came out with what you see on the end of the treads. Even if this was not the culprit still needs a cleaning.
Also if someone can chime in with an answer to this question.
I know that maybe 1974 and earlier carbs venture were a bit different (triple and duel) but did they change the newer carbs with what appears too be the same venturi's for the main and secondary sides? One stamped 1 the other stamped 3. Maybe nothing.
Thanks
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- #55
Wow we have stabilization. Now that the carb has been rebuilt again and test run the findings are that there is no more leak down (drainage) from the carb bowl into the manifold and shafts. The kit required the float setting @ 7.5mm which put the fuel level while running just at the top of the sight glass. It will settle after an two or so hours to the center mark. Still a bit on the rich side. I am now working on the dizzy side of things as the coil rested out just below standards. So a weak coil maybe not helping in the spark area.
Still wondering about that venture, anyone know?
Still wondering about that venture, anyone know?
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After 76, the pri & sec boosters are the same casting. They are different in calibration in some models. Usually the pri booster has the bigger air correction jet and/or smaller discharge nozzle. The numbers on them are just mold number.
Now that the bowl level is at least stabilized, it's easy to adjust for final float level. To lower float level by 2mm on the glass, lower the static float level by 2 mm. If it is 7.5, measure & set to 9.5 to get it down 2mm.
Set the plug gap to whatever the dissy recommends. Points dissy, ~.030, full electronic dissy ~.040. Larger plug gaps just increase the risk of failure for plug wires, cap & rotor, coil.
Now that the bowl level is at least stabilized, it's easy to adjust for final float level. To lower float level by 2mm on the glass, lower the static float level by 2 mm. If it is 7.5, measure & set to 9.5 to get it down 2mm.
Set the plug gap to whatever the dissy recommends. Points dissy, ~.030, full electronic dissy ~.040. Larger plug gaps just increase the risk of failure for plug wires, cap & rotor, coil.
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- #57
Jim if I could buy you a beer I would will this do? - good information on the boosters I will sleep better tonight well maybe not I have a midnight shift to fill, weekend shifts are just wrong.
I will give the float setting a bit of a try as you suggest. I did not realize one could move about with float the setting so much. So as the photo shows it should be in the middle of the glass when idling. I was thinking it was somewhere between the lines, glad you stopped in.
Is that 9.5 mm a 22R engine carb setting?
I believe the electronic dizzy settings said .039 USA, would .032-35 for non USA with full electronic work ?
Again Jim thanks for your support information.
will this do? - good information on the boosters I will sleep better tonight well maybe not I have a midnight shift to fill, weekend shifts are just wrong.I will give the float setting a bit of a try as you suggest. I did not realize one could move about with float the setting so much. So as the photo shows it should be in the middle of the glass when idling. I was thinking it was somewhere between the lines, glad you stopped in.
Is that 9.5 mm a 22R engine carb setting?
I believe the electronic dizzy settings said .039 USA, would .032-35 for non USA with full electronic work ?
Again Jim thanks for your support information.
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Any gap setting will work for plugs, as long as it's big enough to fire reliably ( >.020) and small enough to not melt the ignition system.
The 9.5mm is just me tossing numbers around. The correct float setting is not a number, but the fuel being in the middle of the glass. The number is a starting point, not the final adjustment. Much like the idle mix screw which starts 4 turns out, but ends up adjusted to 13.0 AFR at idle speed.
The 9.5mm is just me tossing numbers around. The correct float setting is not a number, but the fuel being in the middle of the glass. The number is a starting point, not the final adjustment. Much like the idle mix screw which starts 4 turns out, but ends up adjusted to 13.0 AFR at idle speed.
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Jim-Thanks
I can now put this posting to an end.
The final setting of the float now is 11.5mm from 7.5mm (second kit) to where it now sits dead center again. Of course each setting will be different so do not use this setting as a starting point use the books.
Before I had gone as far as 10mm on the initial settings but with the needle and seat kit failing and being less than desirable type due to the needle would not seat keeping the fuel bowl pretty much full and above the sight window.
With Jim C and others input on the needle/seat, a better kit with a much better needle valve tip and seat was obtained and installed to make it a fast fix.
Hope that other Mud folks that are undertaking a carburetor float problem can learn from this posting in the future.
Stared as what the book said @ 6mm and ended up at @ 11.5 and always keeping the 1.1mm tip setting.
I can now put this posting to an end.
The final setting of the float now is 11.5mm from 7.5mm (second kit) to where it now sits dead center again. Of course each setting will be different so do not use this setting as a starting point use the books.
Before I had gone as far as 10mm on the initial settings but with the needle and seat kit failing and being less than desirable type due to the needle would not seat keeping the fuel bowl pretty much full and above the sight window.
With Jim C and others input on the needle/seat, a better kit with a much better needle valve tip and seat was obtained and installed to make it a fast fix.
Hope that other Mud folks that are undertaking a carburetor float problem can learn from this posting in the future.
Stared as what the book said @ 6mm and ended up at @ 11.5 and always keeping the 1.1mm tip setting.
Glad you got this sorted out. I was going nuts with my old 1970 1bbl carburetor doing the same thing as yours, too high of a fuel level. Finally realized it was the float itself. That old rig had a brass float and it was leaking fuel inside which would make the float heavier and allow too much fuel in. I kept adjusting the float level and eventually broke the adjusting tab after draining, soldering, JB welding, etc. Jim sent me a number for a later model plastic float that should work. Don't believe they gave me the right one, just a plastic float they had on the shelf. I had to play around to come up with a setting that would put the level in the middle of the glass, way crazy numbers, but it worked. It was still working just fine when I swapped out the motor for a 2F with header, new intake (ceramic coated) and Trollhole carburetor. I see you are tooling around the Great Northwet, I retired from Boeing three years ago. Since you are on the left coast, it might be worthwhile to ship your/a carburetor down to Mark A in SoCal since Jim C is way East in Ohio. Either way, those two guys are the gods of these Aisan carburetors.