Twin radiators!!??WTF

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roscoFJ73

roscoFJ73

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Anyone else see this. Must have cost a small fortune for not much benefit that I can see.
The inner radiator would just be absorbing all the heat from the outer radiator.
Makes you wonder what causing all the heat in the 1st place :rolleyes:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Landc...yZ102317QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Thats interesting. I can see it helping with cooling , but how much, I have no idea. You would think that they would act as one if its plumbed in parallel. Its one hell of a big heatsink thats for sure.
 
Waggoner5 said:
Thats interesting. I can see it helping with cooling , but how much, I have no idea. You would think that they would act as one if its plumbed in parallel. Its one hell of a big heatsink thats for sure.
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sorry for the hijack, have you had any problems with the horizontally mounted rad on the fzj45? or is it at a slight angle and not flat. I was wondering how air would act in that horizonal radiator.
 
The way I see it,apart from blowing hot air onto the inner radiator, the extra radiator is probably inhibiting airflow and thus negating the extra surface area of the 2nd radiator.

He could probably get a better effect by drawing more air through one radiator.
 
I would prefeer one rad on front and the other one in the rear .. coz in this setup you have more watter .. yes more cooling .. but realy efective . ?
 
It's a 6 core (or 8 core) rad with double the tank capacity. It can only cool things more than the stock setup. Not double the cooling that's for sure but definitely cooler. But that's not nescessarly an advantage. I had a stuck thermostat one time and removed it for the trip home. I couldn't get my 3B even close to operating temp and they don't run as efficient when they're too cool.
I wonder why anyone would need 2 rads on a little 3B?
 
I can see one Benefit.

I know there really is no such thing as a dual radiator vehicle but if these were plumbed as a parallel setup if one radiator sprung a major leak in the middle of gods country, then you would either switch hoses or if there was selector valves installed, switch valves over to the other radiator and go! Wait untill you hit civalization to change the second defective radiator out.
 
AUSSIE-MUSS said:
YEAH rosco i was bashin my head up against the brick wall with this one two...... but on another forum http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=88903
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Thanks for that link. Too be honest I mused about trying that myself once,but threw it in the too hard basket.

Also ,if you have ever felt the hot air coming off a hot radiator,you have to wonder just how much heat the coolant would shed in the 2nd rad
All this is likely to be compounded by a lack of airflow from the restrictive 2nd rad.

It would be interesting to plug heat sensors all over it and measure the temp at different points.

I wonder if it still flows like a normal 3B radiator,I think they have a divider in them because the coolant outlet is on the same side as the inlet

Someone put a lot of work and money into it .
I cant help feeling there would have been cheaper/better alternatives such as trimming the front panel and putting a wider radiator in that had a larger surface area backed up with a bigger fan(s)

Or even better,buy something more suited to towing a horse float in the middle of summer:D

It went $7500AUD which is ok considering the mods and if the maintenance was up to the standard claimed by the seller
 
When I replaced my radiator after fitting the tubo I wanted to put a 5 core in and was advised by a mate in the radiator shop not to do it as they do not circulate properly at low revs.This surprised me as some guys swear by them. I reluctantly went along with the 4 core and it has worked well. I think you would need one hell of a water pump to get good flow through that one.
 
bigbrowndog said:
When I replaced my radiator after fitting the tubo I wanted to put a 5 core in and was advised by a mate in the radiator shop not to do it as they do not circulate properly at low revs.This surprised me as some guys swear by them. I reluctantly went along with the 4 core and it has worked well. I think you would need one hell of a water pump to get good flow through that one.
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I was told the same thing by rad shop
Surface area is always more important than rad thickness.

Ive seen and heard of others fitting windscreen washer jets that spray onto the radiator.
They reckon the gauge drops real quick if your rock crawling or on a big hill.
The big puff of steam takes all the heat away:D
 
when i recored my 2LTE rad i wanted to go 4 1/2 tubes but ended up with 3 3/4 tubes, the surface of the 3/4 was supposed to cool better than the surface of the 1/2 and with the needed space between the rows of the 1/2 there would have been a concern about cooling efficency...
in the end i am happy with the workmanship. not cheap but quality work and advice...
cheers
 
stanley said:
sorry for the hijack, have you had any problems with the horizontally mounted rad on the fzj45? or is it at a slight angle and not flat. I was wondering how air would act in that horizonal radiator.
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Its a stock 80 series radiator laying flat with the neck moved to the back which is now the top. It runs great, 190 degrees, no water moving issues or air pockets.
 
from reading and talking to guys that should know, it has been determined through all kinds of testing that 5 rows (core) is where rads start to loose efficiency. especially at lower rpm. the best way to gain surface area is to up the fin count. when i had my rad built i went to 14 per inch with a four row and it really made a difference.
 
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