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I doubt you just need a little grease.

I paid $250 plus shipping when I bought my new CV assembly a while ago.

At least these things should last +100k miles.

There are some wrecking yards near you and I know a few of them had 100 series vehicles in them recently. I would try and score a used assembly from one of the yards.
 
Jim_Chow said:
The toyota tie rod puller and/or pitman arm puller SST's would probably work. FYI, I had the local toyota dealer replace the CV boots on one side of my 4runner. Cost was $320 + $30 for the boot/grease kit (comes w/ inner & outer boots). LC will cost a little more. So if you have a toyota dealer do the work, figure maybe $400 list for the new CV joint and $350-400 labor or $750-800, my guess. If a lexus dealer, then maybe $1-1.2K.
Click to expand...

Or he could source a new part himself for $250-300 and then pay an independant mechanic even less to do the replacement.
 
I really don't mind doing the work myself, helps me learn more about the truck.

I think Val678 would appreciate it too.

Have a salvage request in to partrequest.com - should have an answer in 72hrs - let you all know how it goes.
 
LX470Pilot said:
I really don't mind doing the work myself, helps me learn more about the truck.

I think Val678 would appreciate it too.

Have a salvage request in to partrequest.com - should have an answer in 72hrs - let you all know how it goes.
Click to expand...


Its a fair amount of labor time to do either (IMO): Rebuild CV boots (given the noise you have described with relative certainty it is indeed coming from a CV) or use used CV axles to save a little relative cash.

If you are really certain it is the CV I would replace with new OEM units...and be done with it.
 
spressomon said:
...
The Steering Knuckle Puller is just a robust puller...not going to use it for anything else though you gotta have it to do it right and to keep from damaging the ball joint rubbers (got mine from Tool King for about $65). The 54mm socket is what you need to remove the two locknuts that hold the hub to the spindle. As Rusty stated above: To rebuild the CV you'll need the FSM, some mechanical apptitude, patience, an extra pair of hands. However if you are positive the CV's are causing the "popping" I wouldn't waste my time rebuilding (boot kit and grease refresh is all you do) as the CV has more than likely been run dry.
Click to expand...
FWIW I used a pitman arm puller yesterday and it worked well. It was a little tight on the lower arm but fit the upper perfectly.

A 2-1/8" socket is the same size as 54mm and easier to find, it will probably only be available in 3/4" drive so you might want to get an adapter to fit your torque wrench. If you do anything with your wheels you will need this so it's a good investment.
 
Allright, so I jumped the gun and spent $4 to get automated solicitations from companies with phone operators who don't know much about vehicles other than they have 4wheels and move.

Likely would have found the useful websites that were sent to me for my money if I'd just dug a bit more.

Oh well, live and learn - btw - I'll start a new thread with a list of these websites so other people can benefit from my naiivete.

So, the part catalog drilldown on rockauto.com lists two CV axles:

A-1 CARDONE Part # 605185 {CV Half-Shaft Assembly Reman.} @ $149.79 ea.

and

CV UNLIMITED Part # 8723 {REMANUFACTURED} @ $162.79 ea.

Both listed as suitable for Left/Right installation - It makes sense that they would be interchangeable, as they are both able to rotate in either direction, but I just want to make sure this is normal, yes?

Also, both of the above list a Price/Core/Total (the prices I listed are the totals)

Can someone explain Core?

One place emailed me to call them, and gave a quote of $220 shipped for:
2000 Lexus LX470-Front Axle Shaft-[outer assembly, w/ cv joint] - USED

Another place actually called me - Pat's Auto Parts in Ocala, FL
They quoted $150 NEW + about $50 shipping

So far, Pat's looks like the place.

Anybody favor one over the others for any reasons?

BTW - When I do this, I'll be sure to document it well to add to the how-to library here on Mud.

- LX Pilot
 
I just called NAPA. $107.99 for a re-man. Your "friend" could buy one of those for short term fix then replace it with an OEM part later and keep the re-man for a trail spare.

Core is an exchange, you have to return your old part to get the core deposit. It's where they get used axles to re-build.
 
Last edited:
Wow - just called them since you mentioned them.

Unfortunately, it doesn't show up in their computer as being in stock at any stores, even the distribution center, so it would have to be a special order.

BUT!! - the retail is $107.99 like you said, with a $90 CORE!!

And unless I'm mistaken, NAPA is a pretty trustworthy company, which makes this a hell of a deal!

Since it's a special order, anyone in the SoCal area want to do a group buy and get them together?

-LX Pilot
 
spressomon said:
The CV shaft assembly IIRC was about $300 per side from CDan (before I knew SINCITY100) plus s/h from him (new Toyota OEM).

The CV shaft assembly has splines on either end that interface with the front diff (PS side) and the front diff extension tube (DS side). They extend through the spindles where they attach to the hub. The parts blow-ups from the FSM gives you a much better idea of what you're dealing with. Either RustyTLC or myself can post these up later...

FYI: When I did my 4.88 install, locker, etc. I went ahead and replaced my CV shaft assemblies...then I will rebuild my old CV shaft assembly to use as a trailside emergency part.

The Steering Knuckle Puller is just a robust puller...not going to use it for anything else though you gotta have it to do it right and to keep from damaging the ball joint rubbers (got mine from Tool King for about $65). The 54mm socket is what you need to remove the two locknuts that hold the hub to the spindle. As Rusty stated above: To rebuild the CV you'll need the FSM, some mechanical apptitude, patience, an extra pair of hands. However if you are positive the CV's are causing the "popping" I wouldn't waste my time rebuilding (boot kit and grease refresh is all you do) as the CV has more than likely been run dry.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info, let you know how it turns out in a couple of days!!!
 
Here are a few pictures of the inside of a 100 CV axle inboard joint. These are all clickable thumbs, some not the best quality. sorry about that.
The inboard tulip


A better view of the grooves the balls ride in and the ring that retains the ball and cage assembly.


Alignment marks used to re-assemble the ball and cage assembly.


The snap ring that holds the B&C on the middle shaft of the axle.


The B&C assembly cleaned up.
 
Ok, well the NAPA idea didn't quite pan out.

Yes it's a great price, but the part is currently non-existent. The only way would be to give them the core, and wait through a 6-8day turnaround while it goes to and comes back from Pennsylvania, blah blah blah.

The guy at my local NAPA shop referred me to a rebuild shop in the area, and they'll rebuild the CV in about 3-4hrs for $40.

So, I think that's the way I'm going to go for the time being. This is my daily driver, after all, can't just sit for 8days.
 
So the noise got real huge, so I took it to Longo Lexus, got a call back saying they can't figure out whats wrong with the truck, so they will try again tommorow and run a diagnostic.
 
So they found metal chavings in the Front Diff!!!
 
Val678 said:
So they found metal chavings in the Front Diff!!!
Click to expand...

You wanted 4.88+315's+ARB anyway...right?! There are two kinds of 100 owners: Those that have installed the front ARB...and those that will;).
 
calamaridog said:
And then there are those of us who are stockpilling the carriers that you guys are no longer using.
Click to expand...

For what...ocean trolling downrigger ballast? :rolleyes:
 
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