Turbocharging 3B engine with custom exhaust manifold

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For a school project I’ve turbocharged a 3B diesel engine, a reliable engine but with a lack of power. I’ll take you through the design to serve as inspiration:

It all started with research and calculations which led to the conclusion that the Garret GT2052 is a perfect match for the 3B. It is a relatively small turbo that delivers boost without turbo lag but with potential for about 1,5 to 2 bar of boost.

After designing various exhaust manifolds we chose for a down-mounted design to keep the exhaust as simple as possible. We chose stainless steel for the exhaust manifold for looks and longevity.

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The design for the exhaust manifold, it is kept as simple as possible using standard weld bends with a radius of 76,5 mm and laser cut flanges. Only the weld bends in the middle have to be cut.

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If you tack-weld the bends to a steel plate (pointed out by the red arrow), you can clamp the plate in a band saw which makes cutting of the bends a lot easier.

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Pipes and weld bends were cut using 3D-printed shells. The shells were designed to fit over the pipe or bend and to have the contours of the cut-out in it. Using these shells we drew the cut-outs and then made the cut-outs using a grinder and a file.

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We made a fixture for welding the exhaust manifold as stainless steel warps a lot when welding. We tacked the exhaust manifold using stainless steel wire in a MIGMAG welding machine and it was welded up using a TIG welding machine.
 
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After welding the exhaust manifold we fitted it on a 3B we had on an engine stand to make the oil supply and oil return line. We used the oil pressure connection going to the vacuum pump to feed oil to the turbo and mounted the oil pressure sensor on a T-piece to lubricate the vacuum pump. For the oil return we’ve drilled through an unused hole in the side of the block that connects to the crankcase.

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After the preparation it was time to mount the exhaust manifold and turbo on the Landcruiser. We also fitted a high capacity air filter and stainless steel exhaust and intake piping. We wrapped the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe to keep the temperature in the engine bay as low as possible.

After fitting everything it was time for testing. It became clear that the stock wastegate opened between 1,2 and 2,2 bar after which we fitted an aftermarket wastegate to achieve a maximum boost pressure of 0,8 bar. We only achieve maximum boost while accelerating or with high revs, when cruising we usually have a boost of around 0,5 bar.

After mounting the right wastegate it was time to tune the fuel pump. After opening the hood quite a few times the adjust the fuel screw we decided to extend the fuel screw with a few shafts and flexible pieces so we that we can adjust the fuel pump while driving.

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In this picture you can see the fuel pump screw with a connector for a piece of rubber hose that serves as a flexible connection to a quarter inch extension from a wrench set with a cardan coupling to allow for movement of the engine. The connector is secured on the fuel pump screw using the original lock nut.

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Inside, a flexible quarter inch piece has been used to allow a slight bend to mount the red knob under the steering wheel. Because the connector on the fuel pump screw is secured using the original lock nut, the fuel pump has a ‘minimum’ setting and can be turned out as much as desired for more power. We use an EGT-sensor to keep the exhaust gas temperature below 600 degrees Celsius while adjusting the fuel.

I’ve tried to give you an idea of what we’ve done to turbocharge our 3B engine, if you have questions or if you would like to see more detailed photo’s, let me know.
 
Nice welding and heat tape wrap. Im amazed the turbo mounted down that low and wide fit in a 40 series. Did you have to cut out and clearance the inner fender?
 
Thanks! We're also very happy with it. We also didn't think it would fit in the first place and wanted to make a top mount exhaust manifold instead.

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But when you've made a dummy to test fit the top mount manifold design, it's not hard to test fit that same design as a down mount design.

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Which fitted surprisingly well, it clears the fender by about 10 centimeters and we didn't have to cut anything. A downmount design makes it also easier to make the exhaust.
 
you fancy bastard, i shoulda done a 4-2-collector, but just did a log (weld els) with an internal kick up flange into the collector
and intercooler for the win.....?
 
Looks nice! I was lazy and made very simple manifold. Bonus is that the original heat shield still fits:
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Holset HE221W ”backwards”:
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Original oil bath air filter and chinese 8x4” water-intercooler:
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Looks nice! I was lazy and made very simple manifold. Bonus is that the original heat shield still fits:
View attachment 4086989

Holset HE221W ”backwards”:
View attachment 4086986

Original oil bath air filter and chinese 8x4” water-intercooler:
View attachment 4086987

View attachment 4086985
Yes mine is almost identical...
why backwards?
do i see a center internal kickup flange in there? or is that the egt probe?
I'm assuming you did a turbo blanket with all that forward facing heat?
nice nice
 
Yes mine is almost identical...
why backwards?
do i see a center internal kickup flange in there? or is that the egt probe?
I'm assuming you did a turbo blanket with all that forward facing heat?
nice nice
Yes, it’s EGT sensor there.
The heat is not a problem, no hot exhaust close to firewall. I installed a wrap on the ”downpipe”. There is also a support bracket for the turbo and the downpipe mounting.

It’s backwards mostly because that way I can use the original air cleaner without modifications.

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Yes, it’s EGT sensor there.
The heat is not a problem, no hot exhaust close to firewall. I installed a wrap on the ”downpipe”. There is also a support bracket for the turbo and the downpipe mounting.

It’s backwards mostly because that way I can use the original air cleaner without modifications.

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do you find that wrap is good enough to keep the vaccuum pump safe?
i wrapped mine too but it wasnt that close, they make blankets for the hot side too that work good
 
do you find that wrap is good enough to keep the vaccuum pump safe?
i wrapped mine too but it wasnt that close, they make blankets for the hot side too that work good
It’s more than enough. The fan is always blowing the heat to back. It’s not that close how it looks in the picture.
 
If it boosts, it boosts…😉
So what have you done to injection timing.... this should be addressed...
-pop pressure on the injectors should be increased
-rotate your fuel pump away from the engine so that the match marks are around 1mm offset (is a general consensus).
-also there is an automatic timer on the end of the timing gear for the pump, it should be dealt with too (i havent messed with this yet on mine)
 
On our engine the vacuumpump is about 15 mm away from the exhaust manifold. We've wrapped the exhaust manifold and it goes very well (so far).

Regarding injection timing or injection pressures, we have done nothing to the engine. We've just adjusted the fuel pump so that it delivers more fuel and that's it. So far it runs really nice. I can image the engine will run even better with the right injection timing and pressure, but based on my experiences it isn't necessary.

If you want to adjust injection timing, it is described how to do this in the manual and what the references are for a 3B and 13B-T.
 
Where the injection timing is at for a N/A 3b is a bit too rough on the crank for peak cylinder pressures and tdc on a turboed unit....should be retarded a bit, the 13bt spec is a clue as to how much
The same with the mechanical advance device on the injection pump timing gear (13bt spec would be an improvement as this advances it with rpm, not ideal for a turbo application)
 
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