No clue on the oil squirter other than the hole in the end looks clear.
Keep in mind 700-750C from a pre turbo temp probe in my 1/8 wall welded exhaust manifold is likely much lower than the temps inside the combustion chamber.
There was a previous brutal overheat that lead to head replacement....Coolant blew out of a JB weld freeze plug(previous owner/mechanic) and water was no longer in contact with temp guage probe so the guage didn't go hot. She started slowing down on the highway Pushed in the clutch to pull over and it locked up with that lousy brown smoke out of the exhaust..............Replaced the head, 2 pistons were scarred, but not punctured and the bores were still go so I left them in but smoothed the sharp edges and high spots on the domes. Those were weak at that point.
I believe it suffered overheat prior to my owning the vehicle. Evidence of head replacement present. The head on the vehicle when I bought it had mismatched valves that were too large for the valve seats. Valves literally seated on the shoulder of the valve Flat on angle edge, due to nothing more than spring pressure. No way toyota put it out of the factory like that. It ran that way evidently, but the guy at the head shop said he had never seen anything like that in 20 years of doing head work.
.....................Oil level has not gone below the "cross hatch" on the dipstick. Meaning never less than 2 quarts from full since I've had it. Engine temp guage went as high as 3/4 of the way from L to H. Normally it runs at about 3-4/10 of the way L to H.
Time is important to me right now. I'm leaning toward trying to hone out the scuffs on the cylinders a new set of pistons , rings, rod bearings and reassembling. Even if the bores are imperfect I think it will hold up and run for some time. As jacked as it was I had over 400PSI compression on every cylinder except the one with the stuck ring. Reducing fuel and avoiding the interstate while enjoying some local 4wheeling, beach camping, etc... add towing and rental car to my insurance policy. If the engine lets go again That will be it for the 3B and me.
I'd kind of like to do a old school DIY cylinder liner replacement just for the learning experience, but when I crawled underneath to look at the bottom of the engine today the liners do not protrude. The block casting covers the bottom of the liners. I don't know how you get anything under the liner bottom to push or pull it out. Toyota has a Special Service tool for this, but looking at the bottom of the engine I have no Idea how you'd use it.....If I could see the liner walls protruding down and a way to insert the tool between the block and liner I'd understand, but I'm not seeing anything like that.
When I think about lost time I see 3B rebuild as 1 month+, in frame rebuild 10 days, "easy engine swap(something fits in easily and readily bolts up with available adapter)"4-6 weeks, "developmental engine swap(something big requiring clearancing and modfication of driveline/custom adapter plates)" 2+months.
