Turbo 1fz in cruiser ute (1 Viewer)

[Clint79]

Turbo 1fz

howdy
i have a 1fz powered 2000 79 series cruiser ute
i know its not a 80 series but the 1fz should be enough coolness the 7x series sections hardly has any info on 1fz with out turbos
ive posted a fair few ?s in another turbo post and might as well start my own build and pics
there are a few different things on my 1fz to the 80 series fz ,mine like the 1fz 100's run coil packs instead of a dizzy and have a different intake manifold a bit taller i think for a lil more torque so toyota says anyhow
i know a bit about cruisers and have turbod a few mates diesel 80 series but no petrols/gassers but dont now to much about turbo petrol side of things so for me itll be trial and error and questions

so i got my garret bb turbo of a popular aussie ford sdn call the xr6 its a gt35/4x something and has a internal waste gate which is good for me
i got the manifold from treadstone performance it looks okay some bits are a lil hmm and the flange hole isnt exactly central but as a whole im happy with it
first dilema was everyone seem to think the xr6 turbo was/is a t4 flange so i bought one for a good price but its T3 and my manifold isT4 so i found a good cast adapter for $50 ebay they start around $100
today i bought my intercooler on the 7x series there isnt much room up front behind the grill as the AC bits take up half the space
the cooler is about 400mm long 280mm high and width mm pretty fat its about the biggest i can fit in with out having a intercool as a the whole front end
Also my other worrie is the 80s airflow sensor thing in the intake pipe has a big plug and wires and stuff the only thing in my intake with wires is a little sensor style looking thing with 2 wires?? ill get a pic soon
oil lines i need to tap into the sump , some say into the alloy some into the steel bit of the sump
i checked out this awsome build https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/370043-my-turbo-build.html
his is in the steel any thoughts? and also would like to know the size and type of the t piece he used into the oild pressure sender??
my other project/ride is a v8 80 series ,so while my utes of the road( will porb take it of in a about 2 weeks )i still get to drive in a cruiser
This is my ride that it will all happen to turbo should push the 315's nice and good

this is the turbo next to a WRX turbo

More pics and info soon fellas

 

[Clint79]

manifold pics

Mounted the turbo on the spacer on the manifold for a look
Got a question about the oil return line.. does the oil return line have to be faceing down to the ground does it have pressure forcing it out or does it kind of drip drain?
one of the pics with the spanner on top and the ruler on the side, this is roughly how it will sit/be postioioned when on my motor.The spaner it roughly at the very top and the ruler is againts the oil drain/return flange and you can see the angle which it with sit which is about 4 oclock so its past the flat/45deg .will this be enough down angle to drain ok??

I also think the rear turbo flange exhaust will angle the exhuast into my brake booster and stuff ,so ill get the gasket and get a laser cut probly 10mm thick steel plate cut out , i checked the waste gate and it dosnt open past the end of the turbo so it wont hit a flat plate and have a 3" hole in the plate cut out and weld exhaust to it, sounds confusing but have dont it to a few turbo 80s weve done and seems to work but they are diesels

im spewin about having to have the adapetr as it sits the turbo way out in the air but ahwell

You can see how much smaller the t3 to the t4 flange is,just sat the turbo on manifold

This is my new fridge,this is about the biggest i can fit up front of my cruiser should be okay,

These are some heat sheilds the one on the right is of the vehicle the trubo came of the ones on the left are of some exhaust heatsheilds from some LS1 sdns
should be able to make some nice heat sheilds from this prob do it once its all together

This is the original drain pipe ,im thinking to chop it and then i can get a good hose and clamp it ,do you guys think it will blow off or not that much pressure should i flair the end??

So i have a few questions amongst the pics and writing please have a read and help with info if you know cheers

 

[Clint79]

Another question regarding the oil line in feed, from other turbo posts on mud ive seem to come up with you dont want anymore than around60psi of oil pressure going into the in oilfeed line of the turbo or risk blowing out the seal,but i couldnt find how exactly to restrict it to a certain pressure say to the value of 60PSI? any hellp or ideas

 

[wayneosan]

YEAH BABY!

Ok, IMO, means take it for a grain of salt.
I'll start at the top.

1. Intake and sensor; post or send me a copy of your electrical wiring diagram.

2. Oil return; no opinion. Probably up to you as long as the turbo sits higher than the oil level in the engine.

3. Oil return hose. Buy the appropriate oil compatible hose and slip it on with some clamps. Unless you have crazy blow by or crank case pressure, it won't come off. If you can barb it or put a small flange it's always better.

4. Coating the manifold. If you can get it coated in a black ceramic, there is benefit to everything. Even the down pipe coming off the turbo. Looks good too.

5. How many MM is the internal waste gate hole?

Man that looks like a good dig!

Great progress!!!
I'm subscribed.

 

[Clint79]

The question about the oil. Drain on the turbo as long as it's below horrisontal it should drain,
the waste gate hole is around 30 mm
I went to a laser cutting fab shop after work today and ordered afeww 10mm plates cut out same as the rear turbo gasket for a perfect copy one of the plates will have a 3"hole behind the turbo which the exhuast will weld to and a 30 mm hole infront of the waste gate for a screamer set up . The other two plates one will hav all the centre cut out which will go to tha back of the turbo And the 2nd plate will but up to it but only have a 3" hole for exhaust , so the waste gate flow will have to exit flow up through the spacer plate and exit out the exhuast hole , I'll post pics next week when I pick them up to make it easier to undr stand. Question ... Is there a needed flow rate for waste gate air to come out our as long as it can get out will that be fine.?
Also finnally found a drain pipe bit to thread into my sump. thread one side and hose will go on the other it's a half inch siZe so should be okay , I'm thinking I'll put it towards the rear of the alloy sump ?
Also need to find wiring diagrams of my engine management and bay etc , just need my oil in feed line made but need to pull of the oil pressure sender bit so I can get thread size and stuff , I've been reading 60psi is about the max oil pressure I want going through the turbo how do I govern this ??

 

[landtank]

just so you know the flanges on those manifolds were never spot faced and the nuts will not travel onto the head studs far enough to lock on. People have dealt with this but I'm not sure how.

 

[wayneosan]

1. I forgot, is your turbo ball bearing?

2. Oil return sounds good.

3. wastegate hole. Doesn't matter if you vent or not, but 30mm is kind of small.
Solution A. : install kit and if you have boost creep then you remove turbo and port housing and install a larger flapper wheel.
Solution B. : Do this now before you install kit.

brb.,,,,

 

[Clint79]

just so you know the flanges on those manifolds were never spot faced and the nuts will not travel onto the head studs far enough to lock on. People have dealt with this but I'm not sure how.

I'm not to sure what you mean by spot faced but are you saying I will need longer head / exhuast manifold studs?

1. I forgot, is your turbo ball bearing?

2. Oil return sounds good.

3. wastegate hole. Doesn't matter if you vent or not, but 30mm is kind of small.
Solution A. : install kit and if you have boost creep then you remove turbo and port housing and install a larger flapper wheel.
Solution B. : Do this now before you install kit.

brb.,,,,

yep bb turbo
Cool the waste gate a will have to measure properly when I get a sec, on the sdns the turbos come off some people who push 400 + hp have sometimes have dramas And some performance companys have made some kit to stop the waste gate sh1ting itself from huge boost, they said with my set up etc it'll will be okay but I'll look into it after if I get any dramas,

So.. Does any one know about oil in to turbo pressure and how to govern it.??

 

[landtank]

I'm not to sure what you mean by spot faced but are you saying I will need longer head / exhuast manifold studs?

Yes that is what I'm saying. If you look at my manifold you will see some machining where the nuts contact the head flange. This does two things. 1, it allows for a smooth parallel surface for the nuts to slide on during expansion and contraction and 2, it provides the proper thickness so the nuts run onto the threads of the stud to a point where the distortion area engages the threads and locks the nut in place.

My guess is that the designer of that manifold didn't plan accordingly so the operation can't be done or they omitted it to cheapen the cost. In my case a special fixture had to be made as well as tooling and was responsible for the greatest cost of producing the piece.

Those are an automotive M10x1.25 and to my knowledge very hard to find if not impossible.

 

[wayneosan]

Rick,

what size restrictor should he run on the oil feed inlet?

I'd say contact the turbo manufacturer via phone and get 100% verification from them.

All I gots is opinions.

.030" to .065" use a -4AN fitting I think.

Cut the chamfered top off flush. Get a nitrous jet. Drill -4 fitting to drop in cylindrical part of nitrous jet. Whala. Oil restrictor fitting for top of turbo.

Could be a -3AN, I can't remember. Either way, I'm typing and I'm not sure if that makes sense, so does it?

 

[Clint79]

Yes that is what I'm saying. If you look at my manifold you will see some machining where the nuts contact the head flange. This does two things. 1, it allows for a smooth parallel surface for the nuts to slide on during expansion and contraction and 2, it provides the proper thickness so the nuts run onto the threads of the stud to a point where the distortion area engages the threads and locks the nut in place.

My guess is that the designer of that manifold didn't plan accordingly so the operation can't be done or they omitted it to cheapen the cost. In my case a special fixture had to be made as well as tooling and was responsible for the greatest cost of producing the piece.

Those are an automotive M10x1.25 and to my knowledge very hard to find if not impossible.

thanks mate ,ill do some searching for some tomorrow there is a few fastner shops around locally

Rick,

what size restrictor should he run on the oil feed inlet?

I'd say contact the turbo manufacturer via phone and get 100% verification from them.

All I gots is opinions.

.030" to .065" use a -4AN fitting I think.

Cut the chamfered top off flush. Get a nitrous jet. Drill -4 fitting to drop in cylindrical part of nitrous jet. Whala. Oil restrictor fitting for top of turbo.

Could be a -3AN, I can't remember. Either way, I'm typing and I'm not sure if that makes sense, so does it?

hm i put a nitro kit on one of my previous utes and to change how much HP shot of NOS you want you change the jet , is that kind of what you mean,? a set up with those types of fittings

i have the original oil lines and the connectors
its a pre bent line with these ends on it
Turbo Oil Water line Nissan Silvia S14 S15 Ball Bearing - eBay Turbo Parts, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 26-Aug-10 04:22:26 AEST) but i cant really use the orig pipe as its wrong length prebent to suit the original motor and where i t into my motor ill have to have a threaded end to go into a T piece
i wonder is the hole size in the bolt is the govner of pressure

Also couldnt find a sump gaskit for my motor... found out why as the dont have one they use goo or some silicone snot, so tommorow ill de sump my ute and put the turbo drain bung in then block it of till im get the oil line sorted and some longer head/exhuast studs then i can put it all together and take my front bar and whinch of and mount the intercooler aka fridge


its the little bit that take the longest and seem to be the biggest pain in the ass

 

[landtank]

Rick,

what size restrictor should he run on the oil feed inlet?

I'd say contact the turbo manufacturer via phone and get 100% verification from them.

All I gots is opinions.

.030" to .065" use a -4AN fitting I think.

Cut the chamfered top off flush. Get a nitrous jet. Drill -4 fitting to drop in cylindrical part of nitrous jet. Whala. Oil restrictor fitting for top of turbo.

Could be a -3AN, I can't remember. Either way, I'm typing and I'm not sure if that makes sense, so does it?

I know there is a long procedure for working this out but I didn't do it. I'm running a GT35R and there is a common restrictor that is used and that is what I'll be running, not sure what size it is though as I bought it some time ago.

 

[wayneosan]

Here ya go.

I thought I read this in here, but this was copied from Garret ( I believe).

It's been up for a while glad these guys stickied it.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/132674-turbo-faq-info.html


Talked about oil pressure and inlets etc.

Skim down and it's just before the bearing pictures. Have to do a bit of reading.

I searched but couldn't find a good pic of what I was talking about.

Can you take a pic of the inlet of the oil pressure on your turbo, a clear one?
Looking for a built in restrictor.

 

[landtank]

here are two pics of the inlet oil line.

 

[wayneosan]

If that's the ball bearing journal gt35, then it needs the .035" oil restrictor...

I asked Tony at T1 and he says yes it needs it, and he's got them.

Those are some good pics.
Thanks!!!

 

[Clint79]

here are two pics of the inlet oil line.

that's exactly what mine looks like with that little bit in it , the more I think about I got the turbo with the origianl lines in it so they must have the restrictor in the connection, ill post a pic tommorow

If that's the ball bearing journal gt35, then it needs the .035" oil restrictor...

I asked Tony at T1 and he says yes it needs it, and he's got them.

Those are some good pics.
Thanks!!!

thanks for asking And the info mate

today i got a bit of spare time so I made up a little plate to cover the manifold waste gate hole ,I drained my oil and will leave it all drain over night so tommorow when I rip the sump of it won't drip in my face , and pulled the oil pressure sender off to find the thread size and type so know I know that, I can order my oil in line on tuesday to get made up
also found a right angle drill and short drill bit of 1/2" size so i can fit the dril betweem the chassis and sump, i found a old busted intercooler so I drill and taped into it and tryed the drain fitting and there all the righ sizes and threads, so I'll do my alloy sump tommorow , hopefully next weekend I'll pull the front off and mount my fridge, the following weekend hopefully I can bolt on turbo etc

 

[Clint79]

pulled my lower sump of today geeze its busy in there

and hummed and harred which side to put the drain hole in, the intake side had a nice open place in to alloy and access to get behind but the drain would have to run all the way around the motor , so i did it on the turbo side , 99% of the filling fell out the out side and i had a slightly greased rage on the other side and it worked out well so drilled and taped to hole hardto see but it worked out good and the bit fitted nice and tight and i just pluged it of for now untill i get the oil in turbo line made,

Excuse my dirty motor,it didnt get washed properly after my last outing, i used some heat something threard sealnt when i put it in ,so will see how it gos and gooed the sump back on

made this little plate to cover the waster gate hole as well still waiting on the metal gastkit to come in for it though

This is the little inlet bit on my turbo with its valve bit in it
and the next pic is the original oil feed bit from the orig turbo motor

 

[Clint79]

Once again excuse my muddy motor
This is the only elc style plug in the intake pipe , the 80 series have a large plug or something ?

These are my coil packs etc

 

[landtank]

when I picked a spot for the oil return I wanted one clear of any of the rod connections on the crank. That's because they get real close to the side wall when turning and I didn't want the oil discharge from the turbo to wash over those bearing assemblies.

I located a spot where it was aligned with one of the mains so there was plenty of room for the oil to enter the pan without contacting any bearing assembly and it was as far forward as I could to allow that hot frothy oil to relax and mix into the pans oil with as much time as possible before being drawn back into the sump again.

 

[wayneosan]

Doin good. Without a manual, I can tell you that is an air temp sensor in your pipe.

IF you don't have maf that means that you have a Speed density system and possibly might hit a fuel cut when you boost.

All of this is irrelevant if you work the details out with Peter from Performance Motor Research there in New Zealand on your fueling solutions.