Tune Up/ EGR Question

[craigster]

I did a tune up last weekend on my 88fj62 and experiencing a rough idle after driving about 15 minutes. I'm thinking it's the EGR valve but should I spend the money and replace the modulator first and see what happens? Also, what is the life expectancey of the EGR. I have 196k on the clock and feel like maybe I should just go ahead and replace, but it's about $220 for both parts. Also is the timing 7 degrees at #6 tdc? Thanks for the help.
Craig

 

[jwest]

Check you timing first.
7* BTDC @ 650rpm using #1 spark plug.

Change your PCV valve if you haven't already. What did your tuneup consist of?

Better to narrow things down before you start replacing parts.

.

 

[craigster]

Thanks for the reply, I meant #1 instead of #6. I replaced plugs, pcv, wires, cap, rotor, air filter and fuel filter. I checked the timing with a jumper wire on the TE1/E1 and wasn't sure if it's 7* with the wire @650rpm and then 12* with the wire removed. It's also been running hot with the temp in the middle of the 1/4 to 1/2 mark, and the fan clutch kicks in at just above the 1/4 mark so it seems to be kicking in alot. I did the radiator/thermostat thing about a year ago so I think that can be ruled out but I'm kind lost with all this emissions mumbo jumbo. Dismantling isn't an option since I'm in Calif. I did put vaccuum to the Egr hose as it idled and it did stutter, but I'm not sure how strong the resistance should be when pushing the diaphragm from underneath. I guess I'll just have to keep experimenting. Thanks, Craig

 

[swank60]

Since you replaced your PCV, that's where I would start. Check all of the connections and make sure there's no vac leak. That's what I'd put my money on. Retrace all of the vac hoses (on the 60, there's all sorts of vac line offshoots that connect to the PCV line) - make sure you got them all right.

 

[craigster]

I've checked the hoses and they all seem OK, but as far as the timing goes what is the best way to get close enuf w/ the lite to the timing mark? I'm having to shoot it from almost the front of the engine and I cant seem to get close enuf to see the marks. Right now it's set to the far left of the window and I don't notice any change with or without the jumper wire on the te1/e1. Do you have to remove or unhook anything to get closer?

 

[jwest]

I don't have a 62 but I'll do what I can to help.
When checking timing, I believe you need to jump TE1 and E1 in order to disable electronic spark advance.

Find the right line of sight. If you still can't see the marks, they'll either need to be cleaned or white marked. BTW, we're assuming the timing mark cover is open.

Have you checked for any diagnostic codes or have a check engine light?

The 62's use OBD. Some fault codes will set the check engine light and some don't.
With key on engine off, and again jumping TE1 and E1, the system will go into self-diagnosis. Signals are then coded through the number and frequency of check engine light flashes.
A service manual would have all your diagnostic codes.

.

 

[craigster]

Yeah, I've done that. The code came up 51 and 71 which has to do with Egr temp being too low. It says to check EGR temp sensor or vacuum switching valve. I guess thats the next step and I'll just hunt and peck until something pops up.

 

[craigster]

I figured out that it was the EGR temp sensor that was the problem. I think that it is only on TLC's originally sold in Calif. and not on federal ones. I just pulled it and cleaned it on a wire wheel, reinstalled and everything is fine. I also got under and realized that there are 2 timing marks on the ring gear, 1 straight that is TDC and 1 round drill mark that is 7*, marked them and now it's no problem seeing them from the front of my rig. Just lined the round with the needle and she runs fine. Thanks for the input and help. Craig