Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I think it was Paul Pilgrim who was making parts/tubs in Panama using Toyota jigs and later model to Costa Rica. If this are the jigs being used or if Paul is involved. 
Tub replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tengu
- Start date
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Mary Beth Principe mb@coolcruisers.com via carrierzone.com
10:17 AM (1 hour ago)
to me
Tom -
I have forwarded your email to Manny to reply to and you should hear from him soon.
The tubs are manufactured in Costa Rica on the original Toyota factory jigs.
Toyota originally had a plant in Costa Rica.
Sincerely,
Mary Beth Principe
CCOT also sent the attached link. About HFS Hell for Stout® Body Tubs
10:17 AM (1 hour ago)
to me
Tom -
I have forwarded your email to Manny to reply to and you should hear from him soon.
The tubs are manufactured in Costa Rica on the original Toyota factory jigs.
Toyota originally had a plant in Costa Rica.
Sincerely,
Mary Beth Principe
CCOT also sent the attached link. About HFS Hell for Stout® Body Tubs
I have been to CCOT and seen the tubs in person. YES they look like new Toyota tubs. I was very temped to throw on on my trailer but could not swing the coin. If you want what looks like a bolt on tub and can afford it I would go this route. It would save you a ton of time "making" it work.
What was the cost
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I would be curious of what year 79+ they are based on and if they were for factory heater or non heater with the vent in the center of the cowl. 83 obviously were made for insert dash. US 8/80 mount for the steering column changed for the collapsible steering column. Did South and Central America have that. Same with the glovebox door latch. 10/82 the hump and inspection cover changed for the H55F five speed. This was on all models not just those with a five speed. While easy to add 10/81+ had switches for the dome light. One built for a 10/81-10/82 US market with the 10/82+ hump and inspection cover would be idea for me. That is where I'm hoping to get my 79 too.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Toyota having a plant in Costa Rica should be easy enough to prove. Plenty of 4X series from Costa Rica here in the US. Plaque under the hood should say where they were built. I just don't ever remember any being made there. Brazil, Columbia, and Venezuela believe all had locally assembled 4X series with parts made in Japan and locally. Bandeirantes used Mercedes diesels.
Recently bought a 1984 with a bad tub, but excellent chassis and has a fully rebuild 2F engine
Just ordered a 1983/1984 full tub for it and will keep it a FST
Will have it in 60 days, and will inform about it here.
Just ordered a 1983/1984 full tub for it and will keep it a FST
Will have it in 60 days, and will inform about it here.
”HFS Hell for Stout® tubs are built with high quality 18 gauge, zinc coated sheet metal.”
Teseven tubs are 1.5 mm electro galvanized steel = 15 gauge or how it goes? I have one (1/2 tub), I like it/would order again despite of the missing nuts and holes.
You can see by clicking here: Body Parts - Series 40, 42, 45, 60, 62
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the message, I have heard mixed reviews about S.A quality. Would you say the quality would be comparable to the USA made spec. If I am going to replace all the panels I want them to be correct, otherwise I might as well keep what I have. Am I understanding your comment correct? That CCOT is the place to shop. Thanks again, Mark
HI Mark. Sorry to say I don't have any pics of the jig I used. But I can tell you it was about as simple and primitive as you can get. All I used was 1x1 steel tubing. To hold the door openings square I welded tubing from near the top of the B pillar to the A pillar on both sides. Then a piece of tubing from the drivers side B pillar to the passengers side B pillar. And then from each B pillar a piece of tubing at an angle to the floor about where the rear heater is located. For the rear end I welded a piece of tubing from wheel well to wheel well. And then took lots of measurements. I had to cut pieces of tubing loose when reassembling but would reweld them and move on to the next panel.
I think I was lucky with my quarter panels. Iron Pig Offroad had a set of rear panels WITH the top rail. Had to do a little bit of tweaking but they fit right in. All the other steel is just local purchase flat steel 16 gauge. I had it cut to size and broke to the right dimensions, so I had to do very little trimming. Fabbed up my own rear sill and main beam behind the seats, all out of 16 gauge steel.
One thing I did different is the wheel well housings. I remember when I bought my first 40. Brand new 1972. 7 miles on the odometer. (yes I still kick my own butt for getting rid of it, but feel free to give me a swift kick also). When sitting on the jump seats, from the bottom of the jump seats to the floor is so close and uncomfortable. I added 1.5 inches height to the top of the wheel well. Makes a world of difference. Had to do a bit of trimming on the roll bar to allow for the added height, but that makes for a nice Saturday afternoon job.
When I was all done welding it back together, I checked to see how everything fits. Both doors fit perfect. Put the top back on and it fits perfect. But that does not matter because it is going to be a soft top.
It really is not that hard of a job. I did mine by myself. Never done anything like this before. But 40s are so old fashioned......very few curves to take into account. Don't be too afraid of it. You have a lot more to work with than I did.
I think I was lucky with my quarter panels. Iron Pig Offroad had a set of rear panels WITH the top rail. Had to do a little bit of tweaking but they fit right in. All the other steel is just local purchase flat steel 16 gauge. I had it cut to size and broke to the right dimensions, so I had to do very little trimming. Fabbed up my own rear sill and main beam behind the seats, all out of 16 gauge steel.
One thing I did different is the wheel well housings. I remember when I bought my first 40. Brand new 1972. 7 miles on the odometer. (yes I still kick my own butt for getting rid of it, but feel free to give me a swift kick also). When sitting on the jump seats, from the bottom of the jump seats to the floor is so close and uncomfortable. I added 1.5 inches height to the top of the wheel well. Makes a world of difference. Had to do a bit of trimming on the roll bar to allow for the added height, but that makes for a nice Saturday afternoon job.
When I was all done welding it back together, I checked to see how everything fits. Both doors fit perfect. Put the top back on and it fits perfect. But that does not matter because it is going to be a soft top.
It really is not that hard of a job. I did mine by myself. Never done anything like this before. But 40s are so old fashioned......very few curves to take into account. Don't be too afraid of it. You have a lot more to work with than I did.
So did you use the 71 tub? I have a 71 and am looking for an original tub to use
