Trying to Replace Front Rotors/Brake pads (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Threads
8
Messages
48
Location
Velarde, New Mexico
I hope I didn't get in over my head. Last week, right before the Christmas tree run, I found that my brakes went down to the metal. What timing! So being the DIY'er I am, I have tackled the job of replacing the front rotors and pads.
I am braking down the driver's side as we speak. Does any one have a link to the steps to take to replace these items?
I just got the cone washers out- Do I pry the dust cap off to get to the guts,therefore being able to get the rotors off? This is my first attempt on the TLC, but have done quite a few brake and rotor jobs. I don't mind doing a little prying, it just seems that the dust cap is very well "connected". I thought I better try some level headed, calm, and intelligent people before I brake something. All Responses will be greatly appreciated. Tim
I'm Also in the middle of BFE, Espanola is fifteen miles away. I haven't gotten the rotors or pads yet. Since this is not my daily driver, would ABQ be a better place for parts?
 
I hope I didn't get in over my head. Last week, right before the Christmas tree run, I found that my brakes went down to the metal. What timing! So being the DIY'er I am, I have tackled the job of replacing the front rotors and pads.
I am braking down the driver's side as we speak. Does any one have a link to the steps to take to replace these items?
I just got the cone washers out- Do I pry the dust cap off to get to the guts,therefore being able to get the rotors off? This is my first attempt on the TLC, but have done quite a few brake and rotor jobs. I don't mind doing a little prying, it just seems that the dust cap is very well "connected". I thought I better try some level headed, calm, and intelligent people before I brake something. All Responses will be greatly appreciated. Tim
I'm Also in the middle of BFE, Espanola is fifteen miles away. I haven't gotten the rotors or pads yet. Since this is not my daily driver, would ABQ be a better place for parts?

Parts, I'd get at American Toyota. Decent deal for HDC members. Get the 100series pads for the front with rotors.

Now, in terms of swapping out, do the following:

1. Take out nuts, washers, and cone washers on hub flange.
2. Use a mallet and pop off the dust cap (sometimes I've used a screw driver wedged in between if it is stuck).
3. Use snap ring plier to take out the snap ring.
4. You will need a 52mm hub socket (2 1/8" works as well) to get the hub nut off. Take all of this stuff out--hub nut, star washer, notched washer, final hub nut, and then the outer wheel bearing.
5. Use a 6-pt. 17mm socket and take out the two bolts holding in the calipers. Pull calipers up and the entire hub assembly should be pulled out.
6. Unbolt screws holding hub to rotor. You might have to use a hammer to detach hub from rotor, or put hub in vice and pull rotor out.

(optional depending on mileage): This is a good time to clean and check your inner and outer bearings in the hub. Repack with fresh grease. Clean out center of hub and repack with fresh grease. Get two new inner hub oil seal and replace seal.

7. Attach new rotor with bolts--I've used an impact gun on them before with no ill effects.
8. Put light coating of grease on spindle and slide hub back onto spindle with new rotor attached.
9. Put outer wheel bearing in.
10. Put inner hub nut in and do correct pre-load procedures.
11. Put all the washer, star washer and final hub nut back on and torque for final pre load.
12. Put new hub flange gasket on then the hub flange.
13. Put snap ring back on and then the dust cap --fill dust cap with grease.
14. Remove old pads from caliper. Push pistons in and fit new pads in. Use some brake grease on the pins and backing plates.
15. Put caliper back on rotor--it'll be a tight fit.
16. Put bolts back on, put tire on and go for a spin to break in new rotors pads. I've been using this method: accelerate to about 50 mph and then slow down hard on the brakes till you get to about 20 mph, then repeat 4-6 times. Do not stop while doing this--be continuously going.

Clear as mud? Good luck.
-onur
 
Thanks a million!
I will do just that!
Hope to get to the new years day run!
Peace
Tim
 
Yeah, what Beno said.....:hillbilly:

The break in period of the rotor and pads are very critical. You're suppose to get them "hot" to the point of smelling them during this process. This insures years of smooth braking w/o warpage or pulsating peddle!

Oh yeah, DO torque the caliper bolts to the axle housing.
 
Anyone out there want to sell me an extra hub socket you got laying around?
If not, anyone know where to purchase one? I figure American, but all info would help.
Waiting for the weather to warm up.. TLC still in driveway.
Saving $$$ on Gas though!!
 
Anyone out there want to sell me an extra hub socket you got laying around?
If not, anyone know where to purchase one? I figure American, but all info would help.
Waiting for the weather to warm up.. TLC still in driveway.
Saving $$$ on Gas though!!

I don't have one yet, but I think Slee has them, if you want to order one.

Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts
 
We have ~6 new OEM ones on the shelf. Less than 30 bucks.
 
Dan, is this the OTC 54mm, or another brand?

Jon

Toyota/OTC actually, with the "correct" 1/2 inch drive as opposed to a 3/4 inch drive.
 
Tim, sell ya mine for $10 and I'll get an upgrade from Dan. :cool:

Jon
 
Thanks for the offer Pappy, I just got in from the big city, with the hub socket in hand! Thanks to everyone who helped with advice and information. I'm ready to tackle the job tomorrow (Sunday).
It was a pleasure meeting Dan the man. I'll keep you posted,and try and get ready for the NEW YEARS DAY RUN??? I will be in ABQ with a hangover.
 
It's DONE!!

Well, it's done! Thanks to everyone that helped out on this project with their great amount of excellent advice.
Solid braking with a dollar to spare in my pocket! You cant beat that.
I hope everyone has a good NYEve, and a great oh-eight.
 

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