Truck does not start in first gear (4 Viewers)

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Joined
May 16, 2025
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5
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45
Location
Australia
Hi all,
Recently my tranny has been acting weird from P to D. The tranny would feel hesitant, but still go. After a day or two like that, I got stuck after a full stop on an incline and revving up wouldn’t take me anywhere. I’ve done quite some research and experiment and this is what I found out:

-The truck seems to be starting in second gear. The L gear (with TC in High) works perfectly well. I have been using this for now to reach 15 kmph and then shift it smoothly to D. After that the tranny acts completely normal.

-ATF looks nice and red. Full and no leaks. All the other gears work fine, including with the TC in low. R as well. RPM are the same for every gear compared to before.

-No grinding noise etc. I have checked the linkage and seems ok. Makes me think this must be electronic. I know of the solenoids/cable up the throttle body/connectors to be potential suspects and I’m wondering if I found the culprit as per below:

As you can see I have a PHH leak and my coolant is a bit contaminated, Radiator cap is corroded, coolant still green but with some
yellow flakes particularly in the overflow tank from the corrosion related to the PHH I think or plastic degradation (need to fix PHH and flush and see if that fixes, it’s been like this for a little while).

I have heard of the neutral safety switch that could be the culprit as well, is this what is on this picture? It looks like coolant has been dripping on these cables on the pictures below, I wonder if that could be the issue instead of the notorious solenoids. Any help appreciated !

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How does it act in reverse?
 
What you have pictured is the engine to tranmission connector housing. The NSS is on the side of the transmission case. It has a shift rod and wiring connector on it.
 
Gotcha! I’ll have a look. It looks like that housing could have gotten moisture in and I’m wondering if that would be the cause.

It acts perfectly fine in Reverse, doesn’t feel any different. as well as in any other gears. Just tranny doesn’t want to start in first gear while in D.
 
The reason I asked was to differentite between a mechanical and an electrical/electronic control problem. Reverse and 1st share the same gears, mostly, so if reverse was also a problem it's most likely mechanical. Since your answer is no, you are most likely looking at an electrical/electronic control problem, as you guessed.

That connector housing contains the NSS wiring. It's EC1 on the EWD, for reference. I've seen these get really badly corroded when the PHH leaks, because it sprays directly onto this connector housing and the EC2 connector housing, immediately adjacent to it. At best, this is the reason most people lose the PRND2L lights on the combo meter. At worst, you go nowhere.

Pull it apart, if you can (it's a real pain the starter installed) and check the condition of the terminals. I've seen some connector housings full of green crud and still working (somewhat). You want it "operating theater clean" in there.
 
If it's nasty in there, pull the starter and de–pin the terminals, one at a time. This will allow you to clean them throughly and your problem (if this is it) will be solved. If they're just a little dull, but not covered in green corrosion sparkles, try spraying them with Deoxit.
 
Thanks a lot for the insight! Crazy, I had no idea about the R/1st gear sharing same gears
They would be the same gear, if they rotated in the same direction (but then, of course, there would be only one of them). In order to get them to turn in the opposite directions, the front planetary is used. If it's locked the output shaft turns one way, if unlocked it turns the other.
 
What kind of rig is this? No idea of the year, 3FE, 1FZ, 1HZ, 1HDT, etc, 440A, 442A...

It sounds like 1FZ given the PHH reference, but that could be 343A or 442A, right?
 
Same answer; the primary difference between the A343F and the A442F is the elctronic control. The former is fully electronic, the latter is a bastard child of the fully hydraulic A440F and the fully electronic A343F.

I don't think any 1FZ-FEs got the A440F?
 
Also, my temporary technique of putting the truck in L (and obviously H on the TC), then at 2000 rpm/20kmph shift smoothly to D and keep driving, would that put any additional strain on the tranny? Or is this actually ok. I've noticed it shifts really nicely if I keep accelerating (very slowly) when shifting from L to D, otherwise it does jump a little. No noise heard or anything, I just know L is more for muddy terrain/steep inclines etc, but wondering if it's basically just like using the truck in first gear, while in D as well. Or would it even be something to be good to use in traffic, even if Tranny was functioning properly.
 
L is first gear. D, starting off, should be in first gear.

This sounds like some type of control issue if L works fine and manually putting it into D does the trick.

Have you messed with the O/D switch at all, to see if it changes anything?

I don't know much about automatic transmissions. I do wonder, though, if somehow the kick down adjustment might be related?

Never knew the 1FZ could come with the A442 in that year. In the US, I think they switched to the A343 in '95.
 
It helps to know the exact model the OP is working on as Australian 80 Series models had some differences (ATMs) for the same years compared to the US Models. Apparently at least some came with the A442 ATM until 1-98.

LAND CRUISER FJ80,HDJ80,HZJ80,FZJ80 FZJ80R-GCMRKQ ATM,MTM: MANUAL TRANSMISSION; Dr 08.1992 - 01.1995
LAND CRUISER FJ80,HDJ80,HZJ80,FZJ80 FZJ80R-GNMNKQ ATM,MTM: MANUAL TRANSMISSION; Dr 08.1992 - 01.1998
LAND CRUISER FJ80,HDJ80,HZJ80,FZJ80 FZJ80R-GNPEKQ ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION; 08.1992 - 01.1998
LAND CRUISER FJ80,HDJ80,HZJ80,FZJ80 FZJ80R-GNPNKQ ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION; 08.1992 - 01.1998
 
I wish I had an OBD II reader to pull out the code. I've got the old OBDI and did the paper clip technique but my O/D OFF light never worked before (even though O/D works) so it won't pull any codes anyway. Could try to replace the bulb and see if I can get the light to work. Then hopefully I can pull out a code. I'm really betting on Solenoid A but we will see.
 
Your model 80 Series is listed on the VIN plate.
 

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