Hello,
For various reasons I asked a shop to install new rear rotors/calipers/pads for me. I had bought the truck a few months back and it came with one rear rotor that was very scored due to what looked like a rusty caliper. I let it sit for 4-6 weeks and one day it developed a slow brake fluid leak from that caliper. I took the wheel off and could see that the piston itself was damaged and rotor was not only scored but thickness was below spec. Decided to overhaul the rear brakes with new parts (both sides).
I admit I should have done the job myself but lacking space/time/tools, I found a shop that would do it and include a brake flush for a reasonable rate. However, when I questioned them about the process they would use, it was clear they didn't know the particulars of a Land Cruiser. So I printed off the brake bleeding procedure from the FSM and went over it with them. While the FSM states doing LSPV and BV last, we settled on the mud-approved order of rear passenger, rear driver, LSPV, front pass, front drive. I had to show them where the LSPV was (red flag, I know).
Anyway, I picked it up but while driving the pedal starts out firm but if I hold the brakes, it ultimately goes all the way down to the floor and I lose brake pressure. This is especially noticeable on a long downhill or at a stop pointed down (or up). I did the brake booster Operating and Air Tightness checks (below) but may need to do them again...
Anyway, I questioned the shop and they claim they bled well, no air bubbles, etc. They said it took a lot of pumping to bleed which I attribute to the fluid system being partially open (via the leak) and the fluid having humidified and gotten gunked up?
So question is - Could their work have caused the type of malfunction I'm experiencing? Any thoughts on what it could be exactly?
From what I've read on here, it seems like it could also be the master cylinder seals. I've read other people hearing a whistling sound while vigorously pumping to bleed (which sounds like the opposite of air tightness). I've read yet others who say the ABS system should somehow be flushed as well...
The shop is offering to diagnose/correct any issues and they will fix or replace the part for free but since it is not the parts they installed and rather the procedure, I'm not sure they'll find any fault. Still could be worth trying though as boosters look expensive.
Appreciate any thoughts/advice
For various reasons I asked a shop to install new rear rotors/calipers/pads for me. I had bought the truck a few months back and it came with one rear rotor that was very scored due to what looked like a rusty caliper. I let it sit for 4-6 weeks and one day it developed a slow brake fluid leak from that caliper. I took the wheel off and could see that the piston itself was damaged and rotor was not only scored but thickness was below spec. Decided to overhaul the rear brakes with new parts (both sides).
I admit I should have done the job myself but lacking space/time/tools, I found a shop that would do it and include a brake flush for a reasonable rate. However, when I questioned them about the process they would use, it was clear they didn't know the particulars of a Land Cruiser. So I printed off the brake bleeding procedure from the FSM and went over it with them. While the FSM states doing LSPV and BV last, we settled on the mud-approved order of rear passenger, rear driver, LSPV, front pass, front drive. I had to show them where the LSPV was (red flag, I know).
Anyway, I picked it up but while driving the pedal starts out firm but if I hold the brakes, it ultimately goes all the way down to the floor and I lose brake pressure. This is especially noticeable on a long downhill or at a stop pointed down (or up). I did the brake booster Operating and Air Tightness checks (below) but may need to do them again...
- 1a and 1b were inconclusive for me, hard to tell
- 2a passed
- 2b the pedal continued going down
Anyway, I questioned the shop and they claim they bled well, no air bubbles, etc. They said it took a lot of pumping to bleed which I attribute to the fluid system being partially open (via the leak) and the fluid having humidified and gotten gunked up?
So question is - Could their work have caused the type of malfunction I'm experiencing? Any thoughts on what it could be exactly?
From what I've read on here, it seems like it could also be the master cylinder seals. I've read other people hearing a whistling sound while vigorously pumping to bleed (which sounds like the opposite of air tightness). I've read yet others who say the ABS system should somehow be flushed as well...
The shop is offering to diagnose/correct any issues and they will fix or replace the part for free but since it is not the parts they installed and rather the procedure, I'm not sure they'll find any fault. Still could be worth trying though as boosters look expensive.
Appreciate any thoughts/advice