The panhard is to short, just map out the arc it will take when lowering and compressing, you can see it just picturing it that the arc is to tight radius which is causing the movement, longer panhard = more radius = less deflection.
triangulated lower links? parallel upper links? No panhard? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter workingdog
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So I'm in the middle of putting a 3-link on front of my FJ40 in the front and a 4-link in the rear. I have a panhard in front and not in the rear. The real issue that drives whether a panhard bar is required is the angle of triangulation. If you can get 20 degrees of angle it ensures the lateral movement of the links is nullified. If you just have links straight off the frame, the links will have tendency to move left and right. If you have angles opposing this movement, then you can get way no panhard.
I mounted my johnny joint on the frame side of my front upper link the same way Fabrats did. When I calculated the angle between full droop and full stuff, it was 2 degrees less than the angle of the Johnny joint. It helped to make the mounting easier since I'm trying to fit it in a very tight space of the frame. I wanted a 4-link in the front but couldn't get there unless you have a wide axle where I could have mounted the upper links outside the fame.
I also studied the issue of bump steer as I was doing this. I had a friend tell me to make my panhard level and I also read to make it parallel to the relay rod. Which is right? As I drew this out on paper, it's much of the same. You'll have bump steer either way. The only way to eliminate bump steer is to mount the relay rod and the pan hard in the very same plane but room make that nearly impossible. Here's a few drawings to study.
On a stockish FJ40, another issue plays in the mix. That's the fact that you can't make the panhard and the relay rod exactly the same length. There's just not space to line up the mounting brackets. That issue also amplifies the bump effect since they're traveling in slightly different arcs. It's a small difference but there.
I talked withe a local fab guy and full hydro-steer can eliminate this but he didn't recommend it for a vehicle that might travel on the highway. His thought was it had a tendency to wander (I still have to investigate this since I have no experience with it.). He did say, hydro-assist helps dampen the bump steer.
I'll post up some pictures. I'm waiting on a coil-over spring exchange.
I mounted my johnny joint on the frame side of my front upper link the same way Fabrats did. When I calculated the angle between full droop and full stuff, it was 2 degrees less than the angle of the Johnny joint. It helped to make the mounting easier since I'm trying to fit it in a very tight space of the frame. I wanted a 4-link in the front but couldn't get there unless you have a wide axle where I could have mounted the upper links outside the fame.
I also studied the issue of bump steer as I was doing this. I had a friend tell me to make my panhard level and I also read to make it parallel to the relay rod. Which is right? As I drew this out on paper, it's much of the same. You'll have bump steer either way. The only way to eliminate bump steer is to mount the relay rod and the pan hard in the very same plane but room make that nearly impossible. Here's a few drawings to study.
On a stockish FJ40, another issue plays in the mix. That's the fact that you can't make the panhard and the relay rod exactly the same length. There's just not space to line up the mounting brackets. That issue also amplifies the bump effect since they're traveling in slightly different arcs. It's a small difference but there.
I talked withe a local fab guy and full hydro-steer can eliminate this but he didn't recommend it for a vehicle that might travel on the highway. His thought was it had a tendency to wander (I still have to investigate this since I have no experience with it.). He did say, hydro-assist helps dampen the bump steer.
I'll post up some pictures. I'm waiting on a coil-over spring exchange.
