- Thread starter
- #501
Much more room in rear position which I assume will negate my progressive dampening nirvana
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I am interested in if the front position is much better ride than the back
@PerryParts Are you taking suggestions for printed polymer products?
I think I would really enjoy a coil topper for the rear, I currently have the westcott preload spacers back there, and they are taking the place of the rubber cone.
An isolator there would be great since it now metal topper against metal bucket. I just don't have any out to measure...
I think I would really enjoy a coil topper for the rear, I currently have the westcott preload spacers back there, and they are taking the place of the rubber cone.
An isolator there would be great since it now metal topper against metal bucket. I just don't have any out to measure...
Please keep me posted on performance installed rear vs front!
Always taking suggestions! We’re constantly working on something new. Do you have a photo or existing part number I could use for reference?
Yes, photo from my build:
That piece is metal to the coil bucket top. Works and fits great, just not a fan of metal on metal, even if they are mated constantly.
Always wanted to address that. And now we have a nice polymer printer! Forgot to bug yall about this before.
I'd be happy to help out with this! - do you have one of these coil bucket tops on hand you could send us, or dimensions of it?
How common is this mod for folks on the 200 series platform? Just trying to determine if there's a market for more of these or if it'd be a one-off custom.
- Thread starter
- #507
I picked up a passenger side Slee off-road accessory panel from @empty80 s couple if weeks ago and got to work iterating on my “front of house” accessory power.
I actually did a bunch of work here when switching out my SafetyHub 100 for SafetyHub 150:
This configuration works great but my biggest gripe is that it’s just crowded and while it’s never been an issue, I don’t like blocking the fuse panel cover.
One idea I had was to move the compressor to the passenger side to the slee Mount. While I could Mount the ARB to the bracket, I couldn’t make it fit under the hood without some serous modification of the under hood trim.
So instead I took the long route and moved all of my power accessories to passenger side.
This was pretty straightforward but involved because I cleaned up a lot of prior mistakes along the way.
Another huge win was cleaning up the ARB twin harness. If you’ve seen these you know it’s a spider web because it’s prewired for power and lockers and pressure switch. If you just need a compressor, it’s literally just a purple wire.
I took extra care to loom everything to protect my power cables from abrasion and accidentally arcing against the body. I also made 15/16” grommets for the built in holes in the bracket. The power to the block goes in front of the radiator, the big wires to the compressor go around back.
I also added an Eaton 200 amp terminal fuse ahead of the SafetyHub—again trying to make sure any accidental grounding would get de-energized.
I still have a couple of things to wrap up
I actually did a bunch of work here when switching out my SafetyHub 100 for SafetyHub 150:
This configuration works great but my biggest gripe is that it’s just crowded and while it’s never been an issue, I don’t like blocking the fuse panel cover.
One idea I had was to move the compressor to the passenger side to the slee Mount. While I could Mount the ARB to the bracket, I couldn’t make it fit under the hood without some serous modification of the under hood trim.
So instead I took the long route and moved all of my power accessories to passenger side.
This was pretty straightforward but involved because I cleaned up a lot of prior mistakes along the way.
Another huge win was cleaning up the ARB twin harness. If you’ve seen these you know it’s a spider web because it’s prewired for power and lockers and pressure switch. If you just need a compressor, it’s literally just a purple wire.
I took extra care to loom everything to protect my power cables from abrasion and accidentally arcing against the body. I also made 15/16” grommets for the built in holes in the bracket. The power to the block goes in front of the radiator, the big wires to the compressor go around back.
I also added an Eaton 200 amp terminal fuse ahead of the SafetyHub—again trying to make sure any accidental grounding would get de-energized.
I still have a couple of things to wrap up
- Replace the fuse panel cover
- Pull new cable from the back of house for the DC charger. Right now it have it powered through a resettable breaker
- The switch and or relay for my Ironman lights isn’t working. Rather than troubleshoot I just bought a new switch
Looks like you spent a lot of time laying everything out and organizing, great work!
Did you need to strap the sway bar for installation? You think I need to strap my sway bar before i take my presumably broken one out to keep the bar nearby for easy hookup?
- Thread starter
- #510
I didn’t. I just used a Jack under the skid plate to droop the front a little and it slide in and out.
- Thread starter
- #511
Been a weird couple of months with the 570! First, I got very distracted by it's new driveway mate:
The fact that so many people on this forum are writing these off is nuts to me. I'm a cruiser guy, through and through, and I love the R1S. It's the best SUV I've ever had. If you have the opportunity to drive one, you should.
Back to the LX—it admittedly has been neglected lately—although in true cruiser fashion she never complained and always did what I asked. We'll see if the R1 continues to be as trustworthy.
First issue—I busted another windshield. I got a few chips between driving to Arizona and Indiana this year but we had a cold snap and the windshield cracked from the corner all the way across. It was starting to get condensation on the inside so I had it replaced to avoid any opportunity for water intrusion. I re-upped with Safelite again. I am not enough of a purist to pay out of pocket for an OEM windshield so they are the only other game in town in Seattle. This time around I supplied Safelite with the OEM garnish clips and they happily used them. Installation is flawless.
Second issue—I noticed a pinion seal leak early this year before leaving on my Sedona trip. It was just starting to dribble. But it got bad enough that I could see where the yoke was flinging gear oil on the insulation by all of the emissions stuff above it so took it to my local indy Toyota mechanic and they replaced and changed the diff oil despite not appearing to lose much. This is not a hard job, I just was too busy to do it.
Third issue—My alignment went from a little bad to two hands on the wheel to keep it out of the ditch. I was worried it was a failed ball joint or dragging caliper but it ended up being a slightly tweaked outer tie rod on the passenger side. And when I thought about it, I distinctly remember hooking a tree stump under the passenger side of the bullbar the last time I went to Tahuya. I had both sides replaced along with some frozen alignment tabs.
I definitely filed the corners off both front tires driving around with such poor alignment. I need to asses how bad it is and inevitably will put some stupid 35x12.50s on it.
It's the little things, but having a truck go down the road straight is pretty dang nice.
I also in the process installed a second 5amp NOCO trickle charger. This one is for the starting battery. I ran it through my SafetyHub 150 and it took 5 minutes. I cannot thank @CharlieS enough for turning me on to those products. I have the external outlet but haven't committed to cutting another hole in the sheet
metal.
Happy new year y'all.
The fact that so many people on this forum are writing these off is nuts to me. I'm a cruiser guy, through and through, and I love the R1S. It's the best SUV I've ever had. If you have the opportunity to drive one, you should.
Back to the LX—it admittedly has been neglected lately—although in true cruiser fashion she never complained and always did what I asked. We'll see if the R1 continues to be as trustworthy.
First issue—I busted another windshield. I got a few chips between driving to Arizona and Indiana this year but we had a cold snap and the windshield cracked from the corner all the way across. It was starting to get condensation on the inside so I had it replaced to avoid any opportunity for water intrusion. I re-upped with Safelite again. I am not enough of a purist to pay out of pocket for an OEM windshield so they are the only other game in town in Seattle. This time around I supplied Safelite with the OEM garnish clips and they happily used them. Installation is flawless.
Second issue—I noticed a pinion seal leak early this year before leaving on my Sedona trip. It was just starting to dribble. But it got bad enough that I could see where the yoke was flinging gear oil on the insulation by all of the emissions stuff above it so took it to my local indy Toyota mechanic and they replaced and changed the diff oil despite not appearing to lose much. This is not a hard job, I just was too busy to do it.
Third issue—My alignment went from a little bad to two hands on the wheel to keep it out of the ditch. I was worried it was a failed ball joint or dragging caliper but it ended up being a slightly tweaked outer tie rod on the passenger side. And when I thought about it, I distinctly remember hooking a tree stump under the passenger side of the bullbar the last time I went to Tahuya. I had both sides replaced along with some frozen alignment tabs.
I definitely filed the corners off both front tires driving around with such poor alignment. I need to asses how bad it is and inevitably will put some stupid 35x12.50s on it.
It's the little things, but having a truck go down the road straight is pretty dang nice.
I also in the process installed a second 5amp NOCO trickle charger. This one is for the starting battery. I ran it through my SafetyHub 150 and it took 5 minutes. I cannot thank @CharlieS enough for turning me on to those products. I have the external outlet but haven't committed to cutting another hole in the sheet
metal.
Happy new year y'all.
Congrats on the new rig!! Mighty fine choice. It looks like you have the optional Pirelli ATs on her?
I've been spending lots of off-road time with my friends quad motor R1T. They go about wheeling differently, but these things are no joke. Better width compatible with more tight tracks. With the AT tires, will absolutely outwheel a stock 200-series. Partially because Toyota is too conservative to put real tires on it factory. The R1S should be even more formidable with better breakover and departure than the R1T.
- Thread starter
- #513
Yep it’s the quad motor adventure pack. The pirellis are okay. I’m going to accept the 3-5% range hit and put either KO3s or the new toyo at3 EV spec ATs once they come out.
What’s actually bonkers is the droop travel it has. I got a good look at it when rotating the tires on my buddy’s lift.
The rear control arms, while IRS, are almost 50% of the width of the truck.
Hey @tbisaacs I know you haven't posted in a while but I'm wondering if you noticed a difference between the Perry bump stops being installed on the front as opposed to the back. I just received mine and I'm wondering which position is best.
Also, @PerryParts I noticed that the part number for my front bump stops is AB3F for my LX with AHC. the part number that you mentioned is AB4F. Did I get the correct front bump stops?
Also, @PerryParts I noticed that the part number for my front bump stops is AB3F for my LX with AHC. the part number that you mentioned is AB4F. Did I get the correct front bump stops?
- Thread starter
- #515
Nope, no difference
Hey there!
I swapped the AB3F and AB4F part numbers to better align my inventory system late last year. The AB3F is the part for the LX platform now.
The OEM bump should be retained, unless you're adding 2 sets of our front bumps
That's right. You never want metal on metal. The Perry makes a much smoother transition, but you still want the bottom out protection on both sides or it will load the arm and twist it.
I was so close to taking the plunge on one of these! Ultimately I decided to pivot to the new GX550. This will replace my LX570, and lack of remote charging infrastructure, reported repair costs, and (oddly) the short rear opening, dissuaded me. Though I do love how it drives and that Rivian went with a clamshell! (I’m seriously miffed at Toyota/Lexus for nerfing it)
I would love to hear more comparisons since you’ve now experienced the R1S and LX in depth!
If you could have only one, and your LX where trouble-free, which would you choose?
Last edited:
