Transmission Fluid (1 Viewer)

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what i was getting at, was being able to tell what sort of fluid is in the transmission. the ability to determine why type by a visual inspection. my guess is they would all be pink on the inside....
 
This would imply that although the '03 5speed and '04 5 speed trannies may be identical, the tranny ECU's (or should I say, the main ECU, which controls the tranny shifting) would be matched to the tranny/fluid combo to prevent the shift shock.

Jury is still out on that one, from what I have read about the oil change it was due to the extreme cold conditions that they went to the lighter oil to get the tranny working in the cold. The problem does correct itsel with the old oil, it just takes a couple of minutes of warming up. The newer program addresses some issues in the AI (artifical intellegence) mode, but they could have changed the duration that solenoids are turned on or off, or varied the amplitude or frequency of the pulse to make things smoother. I would not put WS in the 4 speed, but a run in the early 5 speeds would be interesting.

...........The T-IV type ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) of the A750F automatic transmission on the ’03 Land Cruiser has been changed to the WS type on the ’04 Land Cruiser. The reduced viscosity in the practical operating temperature range of the ATF WS enables to reduce drag loss and improve fuel economy.

If a vehicle with a transmission filled with ATF WS is replenished with other type of ATF, the vehicle might not start off at extremely low temperatures. However, it will start off after it has been warmed up for a few minutes.

This is the problem that I believe the 03's have and was fixed with the WS oil in the 04+ vehicles.

Jim you will have to go to -40 next year and try yours out for us!
 
This is the problem that I believe the 03's have and was fixed with the WS oil in the 04+ vehicles.

Jim you will have to go to -40 next year and try yours out for us!

Coldest it's seen is 22F. I didn't notice any difference there, but the CD player in the center console had this "grainy" sound when playing, like a lack of lube. CD's played fine (no skipping). Once I cranked the heat for a few minutes (heater ducts go under the center console), all was well. Besides, when it's cold outside, I warm up the car at least 5 min, so by then, the ATF has probably been warmed a little.
 
OEM Powersteering fluid in my LC was a clear-yellow close to brake fluid.

I think Zimm's question is - Is the WS fluid red ?

Of course if he would add vehicle info to his sig we could tell him what kind of fluid he had.
 
OEM Powersteering fluid in my LC was a clear-yellow close to brake fluid.

I think Zimm's question is - Is the WS fluid red ?

Of course if he would add vehicle info to his sig we could tell him what kind of fluid he had.


My hunch is the WS fluid is red. I use Redline synthetic dextron II ATF in my PS and it's red, but again, it's Redline. :) Their MT-90 used to be red many years ago, now is normal gold.
 
Doing a drip test is certainly no substitute for regular maintenance at toyo specified rates or even sooner (if you really wish) for peace of mind.

However, if you purchased a used vehicle with previous maintenance unknown, it gives you a vague indication on whether the fluids need to be changed immediately.

So, at the very least, do the regular drain and fill at toyo specified schedule. If the drip test shows discoloration in your recently purchased used vehicle, do a drain and fill at closer intervals a few times before going to the regular interval.

At least, that is what I am doing.

This is the test that a high paid transmission industry consultant told me to use to check and see if the transmission fluid needed to be changed. He stated that transmission fluids should last forever unless they have been over heated, stated that the only way to ruin transmission fluid and need to change it is over heating. The drip test shows if it has been over heated and if it needs to be changed. It's not engine oil that picks up contaminates from the combustion process. If a transmission is run within design spec's it should never need the transmission fluid changed. That's from a guy that gets paid the big bucks and doesn't get paid buy the oil industry. Nothing wrong with changing the fluid, but I think it is interesting that Toyota/Lexus does not recommend a fluid change with the 2004 and newer LC/LX's unless you tow (which could cause over heating) and then at a 60K mile interval if you are using your LC/LX to tow. I think you have more of a chance of transmission troubles with a 2004 or newer LC/LX that is not used to tow or rockcrawl, having a dealership change your fluid and screw up the change they you would have never changing the fluid as recommended by Toyota/Lexus in the owners manual. JMHO
 
This is the test that a high paid transmission industry consultant told me to use to check and see if the transmission fluid needed to be changed. He stated that transmission fluids should last forever unless they have been over heated, stated that the only way to ruin transmission fluid and need to change it is over heating. The drip test shows if it has been over heated and if it needs to be changed. It's not engine oil that picks up contaminates from the combustion process. If a transmission is run within design spec's it should never need the transmission fluid changed. That's from a guy that gets paid the big bucks and doesn't get paid buy the oil industry. Nothing wrong with changing the fluid, but I think it is interesting that Toyota/Lexus does not recommend a fluid change with the 2004 and newer LC/LX's unless you tow (which could cause over heating) and then at a 60K mile interval if you are using your LC/LX to tow. I think you have more of a chance of transmission troubles with a 2004 or newer LC/LX that is not used to tow or rockcrawl, having a dealership change your fluid and screw up the change they you would have never changing the fluid as recommended by Toyota/Lexus in the owners manual. JMHO



Sorry, but I don't believe him. He has failed to mention that even if the fluid is not overheated, the fluid gets contaminated with clutch material over time. This material plugs the filter if there is one, or if not, continues to circulate and accelerate wear. I'm sure the tranny makes it through the warranty period, but it will fail sooner if not serviced than when properly maintained. BTW, BMW bought off on this "lifetime" fluid crap on the tranny, and has since retreated to a 100k service interval.

Remember, that these experts are the same one that fully researched out things like Dexcool Lifetime Coolant. GM spent millions on it. Guess what, they had to can it because of all the problems that ended up occurring.
 
Sorry, but I don't believe him. He has failed to mention that even if the fluid is not overheated, the fluid gets contaminated with clutch material over time. This material plugs the filter if there is one, or if not, continues to circulate and accelerate wear. I'm sure the tranny makes it through the warranty period, but it will fail sooner if not serviced than when properly maintained. BTW, BMW bought off on this "lifetime" fluid crap on the tranny, and has since retreated to a 100k service interval.

Remember, that these experts are the same one that fully researched out things like Dexcool Lifetime Coolant. GM spent millions on it. Guess what, they had to can it because of all the problems that ended up occurring.

If your clutch is sheading material in the amount to plug up the transmission filter you have bigger problems then changing the fluid. Plus I've changed the fluid on a 99 LC and a 95 LC at 60K+ intervals and the fluid looked like it was new and there was no material in the filter or pan.
 
If your clutch is sheading material in the amount to plug up the transmission filter you have bigger problems then changing the fluid. Plus I've changed the fluid on a 99 LC and a 95 LC at 60K+ intervals and the fluid looked like it was new and there was no material in the filter or pan.

I changed tranny fluid on mine that has 97K over the weekend. The old tranny fluid looked yellowish and a bit burnt instead of pink.
 
My parents never once changed the ATF in their 85 camry, 84 civic, or 72 corolla mark II and drove them well over 100K mi each with no issues. I have no doubt the ATF was dark and shot, but the tranny didn't fail. There's no question you can push even normal ATF over 100K mi, but you run the risk of deposits and stuff breaking loose if you change w/ 100% new ATF at that mileage (they never changed the ATF, donated the cars to charity instead). If you have that kind of mileage and have never changed the ATF, it might be wise to just do a drain & fill 3-4 times and slowing let the ATF replenish over time.
 
If your clutch is sheading material in the amount to plug up the transmission filter you have bigger problems then changing the fluid. Plus I've changed the fluid on a 99 LC and a 95 LC at 60K+ intervals and the fluid looked like it was new and there was no material in the filter or pan.

Don't forget the LC tranny uses a screen, not a filter, so it doesn't plug like those that use a true filter on the pickup. The problem remains that as the clutches wear, they deposit material in the oil.
 

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