I'm sure this job has been done to death already here, but I've struggled to find a few snippets of information while researching the Transfer Seal Change, and so I thought I'd start a new thread to try and help anyone else in the same boat.
I have a 1977 HJ45 with 3.6L H engine and H41 transmission.
My handbrake drum on the back of the transfer casing has been soaked in oil since I received it a few months ago, and so it's time for a fix.
Before starting anything, I bought the basic parts that I need:
Shoes: Ferodo FSB4991 (~ $25) - 160mm diameter x 35mm wide
SpeediSleeve CR99177 (~$25) - hope this size fits the nominally 45mm diameter shaft as advised on various threads
Transfer Seal TOS2088 (~$10 from euro4x4) 62mm OD, 45mm ID, 9mm Thick (although the one I removed was actually 10mm thick as you will see).
I started by removing the four nuts from the prop shaft. These were worryingly loose and I will make a point of retorquing all of them when I put it back together.
This required a 14mm socket. My 3/8" drive socket just about fitted alongside the spider joint - my 1/2" drive set are too bulky and don't fit. A deep drive socket might give more clearance. A spanner would do it if you were desperate.
The prop shaft pulled easily backwards and with a bit of jiggling was able to lower it down and rest if on the ground. Note that I have a LWB Meano converted pickup, so this may not be possible on all shorter rigs(?) so you might need a block to rest it on.
I put a drain pan under the transfer case, and removed the drain plug. This required a well-seated 24mm socket. Be aware that the head is very short, so a spanner might round it off if they have an entry radius. The drain bolt appears to be M18.
The plug comes out along with the sealing washer. Mine was fitted with a metal crush washer which was about 24mm OD 18mm ID and about 1mm thick - I'll find a replacement washer before reassembly.
Since most of the oil was on the outside of the handbrake, I drained a total of only about 600ml (a pint) of dirty black oil. I'll flush with a part-fill upon reassembly prior to filling with 1.7L of SAE90 GL4 as specified.
I then removed the brake drum retaining Nut / Transfer Output shaft Nut. This required a ** 30mm Socket **. I've have read in a number of places that this is 27mm, however this was not the case. It is possible that mine is not standard, however it does look standard and I think this size is correct. I actually bought a new 27mm socket to prepare for this job, but in the end I used a 1 1/4 inch socket which was very loose. I did not have a 1 3/16, however this would have been a good fit (for those of you still running in imperial). As always, I preach about using the right tool for the job, so a 30mm socket will be in my tool box by the time I am reassembling!
I then selected a gear, and released the handbrake (I would chock the wheels, but with one wheel starting to sink into the clay here, it is going nowhere fast).
Without backing off the handbrake adjuster, I was able to jiggle the drum off after just a couple of light taps with the hammer. You might not have so much luck.
The drum was scored lightly on the shaft as expected but otherwise in good shape (albeit very oily).
Next I removed the four bolts retaining the handbrake backing plate. These are 12mm, and I used a 3/8" drive socket which just about fitted, and was pretty tight against the arm. Once again; a 1/2" drive is too bulky for this without removing the shoes in situ.
The backing plate is still attached to the cable, but I had sufficient slack in the cable to lower the assembly to the ground.
Once laid on the ground, I was able to remove the various brake components:
Shoe Return springs (small pair of pliers)
Shoe Retaining pins and springs (by hand)
Cable retaining circlip (this was the hardest part of the job so far - it was quite twisted and difficult to remove with a small pair of pliers and a screwdriver)
I was then able to release the cable from the brake shoe actuator arm, and remove the shoes from the backplate.
Since the backplate is removed from the transfer case, the seal is now fully visible and can easily be levered out using a flat bladed screwdriver, taking care not to damage the housing.
The old oil now gets transferred into a bottle ready for recycling.
It's time to give all parts a really good wash - firstly in Petrol, then in Jizer, then in Hot soapy water, then with brake cleaner.
If you're in the bush, then boiling the brake drums can help to get more of the oil out, but for those of us lucky enough to have brake cleaner this is a lot easier (and results in less nagging from the trouble and strife as it avoids putting your dirty brake drum in her nice shiny saucepan).
I'm adopting a new rule, that I try to clean and paint every part I remove so that one day (theoretically) I'll have an almost new truck - lets see how that goes...
I'll post more as it goes back together
I have a 1977 HJ45 with 3.6L H engine and H41 transmission.
My handbrake drum on the back of the transfer casing has been soaked in oil since I received it a few months ago, and so it's time for a fix.
Before starting anything, I bought the basic parts that I need:
Shoes: Ferodo FSB4991 (~ $25) - 160mm diameter x 35mm wide
SpeediSleeve CR99177 (~$25) - hope this size fits the nominally 45mm diameter shaft as advised on various threads
Transfer Seal TOS2088 (~$10 from euro4x4) 62mm OD, 45mm ID, 9mm Thick (although the one I removed was actually 10mm thick as you will see).
I started by removing the four nuts from the prop shaft. These were worryingly loose and I will make a point of retorquing all of them when I put it back together.
This required a 14mm socket. My 3/8" drive socket just about fitted alongside the spider joint - my 1/2" drive set are too bulky and don't fit. A deep drive socket might give more clearance. A spanner would do it if you were desperate.
The prop shaft pulled easily backwards and with a bit of jiggling was able to lower it down and rest if on the ground. Note that I have a LWB Meano converted pickup, so this may not be possible on all shorter rigs(?) so you might need a block to rest it on.
I put a drain pan under the transfer case, and removed the drain plug. This required a well-seated 24mm socket. Be aware that the head is very short, so a spanner might round it off if they have an entry radius. The drain bolt appears to be M18.
The plug comes out along with the sealing washer. Mine was fitted with a metal crush washer which was about 24mm OD 18mm ID and about 1mm thick - I'll find a replacement washer before reassembly.
Since most of the oil was on the outside of the handbrake, I drained a total of only about 600ml (a pint) of dirty black oil. I'll flush with a part-fill upon reassembly prior to filling with 1.7L of SAE90 GL4 as specified.
I then removed the brake drum retaining Nut / Transfer Output shaft Nut. This required a ** 30mm Socket **. I've have read in a number of places that this is 27mm, however this was not the case. It is possible that mine is not standard, however it does look standard and I think this size is correct. I actually bought a new 27mm socket to prepare for this job, but in the end I used a 1 1/4 inch socket which was very loose. I did not have a 1 3/16, however this would have been a good fit (for those of you still running in imperial). As always, I preach about using the right tool for the job, so a 30mm socket will be in my tool box by the time I am reassembling!
I then selected a gear, and released the handbrake (I would chock the wheels, but with one wheel starting to sink into the clay here, it is going nowhere fast).
Without backing off the handbrake adjuster, I was able to jiggle the drum off after just a couple of light taps with the hammer. You might not have so much luck.
The drum was scored lightly on the shaft as expected but otherwise in good shape (albeit very oily).
Next I removed the four bolts retaining the handbrake backing plate. These are 12mm, and I used a 3/8" drive socket which just about fitted, and was pretty tight against the arm. Once again; a 1/2" drive is too bulky for this without removing the shoes in situ.
The backing plate is still attached to the cable, but I had sufficient slack in the cable to lower the assembly to the ground.
Once laid on the ground, I was able to remove the various brake components:
Shoe Return springs (small pair of pliers)
Shoe Retaining pins and springs (by hand)
Cable retaining circlip (this was the hardest part of the job so far - it was quite twisted and difficult to remove with a small pair of pliers and a screwdriver)
I was then able to release the cable from the brake shoe actuator arm, and remove the shoes from the backplate.
Since the backplate is removed from the transfer case, the seal is now fully visible and can easily be levered out using a flat bladed screwdriver, taking care not to damage the housing.
The old oil now gets transferred into a bottle ready for recycling.
It's time to give all parts a really good wash - firstly in Petrol, then in Jizer, then in Hot soapy water, then with brake cleaner.
If you're in the bush, then boiling the brake drums can help to get more of the oil out, but for those of us lucky enough to have brake cleaner this is a lot easier (and results in less nagging from the trouble and strife as it avoids putting your dirty brake drum in her nice shiny saucepan).
I'm adopting a new rule, that I try to clean and paint every part I remove so that one day (theoretically) I'll have an almost new truck - lets see how that goes...
I'll post more as it goes back together
