Transfer case re-seal low range 3.1 install part numbers (1 Viewer)

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I recently installed 3.1 /1 T-case gears in my 1993 FZJ80. I've been putting off the job but the leak from my front output shaft (requiring removal of the transfer case) gave me the extra bit of motivation to get the job done. There are some excellent Cruiser shops not far from me but I am on a budget. I figured I could buy gears and a cheap dangerous Harbor Freight press and a bearing spreader and still do the job for half the price (because my personal labor has no value?)

I will spare you the details since there are lots of install instructions on line by

Marlin:

Our new 80 & 100-series Land Cruiser Low Range Gear Kit Install

Otramm:


Fail gear:


I'm not a fan of Fail gear/trail mart chinesium.

I used quality Sumo Japanese gears available (for only a couple hundred more) at

OEM Quality Parts & Accessories

Land Cruiser Crawler Gears | Marlin Crawler, Inc.


If this is your first time cracking one of these cases and installing gears the press work might be a bit intimidating. None of the instructions tell you what size bearing spreader you need or what size press sleeves to use for example.

I used a 4 5/8th spreader that was just barely large enough. whatever the next size larger is may have worked better:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF8JF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The press sleeves I used were simply sections of pipe from the hardware store in the appropriate diameters and lengths and some sockets and some aluminum (pads and disks I had laying around to protect shafts and splines).

I chose not to change output bearings (as they had been changed several years previously)
front output bearing is: 90363-40044
rear output bearing is: 90363- 50005
front output seal is: 90311-50014
rear output seal is: 90311-58008

Tcase input seal and transmission output seal are the same part number: 90311-48016 (you need two)

In theory there can not be fluid transfer between the transmission and transfer case but I had a pretty good leak at the interface and the t case gear oil was a lot "redder" looking than it had ever been at previous gear oil changes. One tip about the input seal. It is easier to drive in the seal while the tcase is disassembled (and the input shaft is not poking out) Unfortunately it also easy to damage the seal when reassembling the transfer case. I caught mine on the input shaft and damaged it and got to replace the (third) seal after the tcase was assembled.

Tcase shifter seal is: 90310- 16001
speed sensor O-ring is: 96711-24030
speed sensor internal o ring is: 90310-09001 (This is not an easy piece to replace, you might want to skip it)
drain plug washers: 90430-A0003 (you will want at least two, five if you replace the washers in the switch/sensors).
FIPG: 00295-01281

I managed to break the locking clips on the speed sensor and the cdl sensor. (the plastic connectors are pretty hard and crispy after cooking above the t case/tranny and being near the cats). The old connector bodies shattered upon de-pinning (which actually made disassembly really easy) and the pins locked right into the new connector bodies.

cdl indicator switch connector: 90980- 11250
low range indicator connector: 90980-11250
speed sensor connector: 90980- 11143

My transfer case neutral position indicator has never functioned as long as I have owned the truck, The switch was broken and failed a continuity test. I suspect the same switch used for the cdl and low range would work in this position but you would need to replace the connector since Toyota used a different part and style connector (probably to prevent plugging in the low range indicator switch that is inn close proximity by accident). I chose to replace the switch with an extra fill plug.
 
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BTW,
In case you did not figure it out, I removed the entire transfer case (no other way to access all the seals) and much easier and cleaner working on the transfer case on a work bench. Before removal I shifted to low and locked my cdl. When reattaching the cdl actuator (I made sure the "large drive gear" was engaged (rotated counter clockwise) and that the bump on the cdl shift collar rod was aligned with the sensor confirming that it was locked.
 
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I've put about a 100 miles on the truck. Every chance that I have, Ive been driving in low range (in the neighborhood, parking lots, etc). I cleaned everything during install, did my best to clean any shavings from the clearancing of the case, lightly greased bearings and such after cleaning them. I decided to change my tcase lube today and it was gray and yucky and there were some tiny shavings on the drain magnet. Glad I did that, next change will be 1,000 miles and then back to the regular maintenance schedule.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
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BTW,
In case you did not figure it out, I removed the entire transfer case (no other way to access all the seals) and much easier and cleaner working on the transfer case on a work bench. Before removal I shifted to low and locked my cdl. When reattaching the cdl actuator (I made sure the "large drive gear" was engaged (rotated counter clockwise) and that the bump on the cdl shift collar rod was aligned with the sensor confirming that it was locked.
bring old thread back to life. hope devil's slide dog can chime in. did you remove the drive shaft before putting the tc in low and locked? is it easier to put back together when it is locked?
 

cruiseroutfit

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Fwiw, we stock full t-case rebuild kits @ Cruiser Outfitters (CruiserTeq.com) and we also stock all of the seals & bearings individually too!

They are NOK Japanese (same as OE Toyota) seals too!
 

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