Transfer Case oil seal

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D

Dibsen

10 Year
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Threads
5
Messages
26
Looks like I have an oil seal repair in my near future. I was doing some checks before my upcoming trip and found a leak on the transfer case. After a quick search found that it is most likely the rear shaft seal and that I will have to separate the housing to replace the seal as it gets seated from inside the case.

Post I read was from 07' so I thought I would try to do an update. Not that anything has changed but I would like to try to take some pics during the process, as the last didn't have anything.
 
it is a pretty straight forward job.

remove driveshaft, remove 10 bolts at rear output shaft front transfer case and then it takes some tedious snap ring pliar action to get the shaft free to replace the seal.

Buy the $22 tube of Toyota RTV for the transfer case, works really good and looks factory.

I will add that you need to be sure that the large "spacer" is aligned property as well as the ring that goes around the pump. I cleaned everything up and put a small dab of RTV between each ring and the case and allow to dry for 10 minutes before installation. This kept them at their home while i slid the rear housing on. Without the RTV you are going to wrestle with keeping them aligned. I didnt take pics so looking forward to seeing yours.
 
This pic shows the leak pretty well

At first I was thinking that the drain plug was leaking but through closer inspection, you can see that the case is wet from fluid leaking past the seal.
GOPR0028.webp
 
ENGINE er said:
it is a pretty straight forward job.

remove driveshaft, remove 10 bolts at rear output shaft front transfer case and then it takes some tedious snap ring pliar action to get the shaft free to replace the seal.

Buy the $22 tube of Toyota RTV for the transfer case, works really good and looks factory.

I will add that you need to be sure that the large "spacer" is aligned property as well as the ring that goes around the pump. I cleaned everything up and put a small dab of RTV between each ring and the case and allow to dry for 10 minutes before installation. This kept them at their home while i slid the rear housing on. Without the RTV you are going to wrestle with keeping them aligned. I didnt take pics so looking forward to seeing yours.
Click to expand...

Funny. When I ordered the seal from my Toyota dealer (parts dep. is usually really good, well one guy anyway. I might have to slap this Dave kid) I was told that you don't have to disassemble the t-case, just remove the drive shaft. But everything I have read says that the seal seats from the inside of the case.

Now, there is going to be some time before I replace the seal. It probably won't be here until after I get back from my trip. So, since I couldn't feel how low the fluid was, I drained it. I was surprised by the build up of metal on the drain plug magnet. Makes me think the last time it was changed it wasn't cleaned, should have taken a pic of that. But no chunks, so good there.

You can see the amount of gear oil that came out. I tried to show the color of the fluid as it clung to the side of the container. Not super clean but I have seen worse.
GOPR0033.webp
GOPR0034.webp
 
Yea your parts guy is wrong lol.

Be sure to scrape all the old gasket. GL with the job.
 
Question: Is it the light or is the lube sitting on the bottom of your t-case red in color...like ATF fluid?

Inside of the output shaft nose...showing the two large diameter spacer shims. The smaller diameter spacer shim is for the idler side of the case.
HF2A Output Shaft Nose Cone.webp
 
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Its the light reflecting off of the red cushion at the bottom of the pic :)

Thanks for the pic of the open nose cone. I am already thinking of how I am going to tell the parts kid he's not a mechanic and shouldn't be giving out his unqualified opinions.

Got any tips for getting off the Toyota Orange liquid gasket? Solvent? The case is aluminum so I am guessing nothing more harsh/abrasive than scotch bright pad.
 
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A gasket scraper works good for the thicker residue areas followed up with a new razor blade...this is what works best for me for getting the old sealant removed. The photo above is right after I split the t-case apart and before clean up ;). Be sure to get down to aluminum...and then a final wipe with acetone or good brake cleaner before applying new sealant.

I've used Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket maker for years with perfect/great results for t-case, 3rds, etc. And its about 1/2 or less than the OEM stuff...FWIW.
 
Dibsen said:
Got any tips for getting off the Toyota Orange liquid gasket? Solvent? The case is aluminum so I am guessing nothing more harsh/abrasive than scotch bright pad.
Click to expand...
What spressoman said. HD/Lowes for a box of razor blades that will get it spotless. I wipe w/ paper towels and the cheapest NAPA on-sale carb cleaner. Last week it was MAF cleaner for $2 a can. Lacquer thinner or acetone also fine. I've used Coleman fuel in a pinch.

If the FIPG is same as you use on the water inlet, I like to let it set for an hour or 2 before filling, then overnight before serious driving. If you can't get it locally, Permatex gray RTV does a beautiful job sealing stuff like the case halves, oil/trans pans, etc.

I drain mine every 40K, mine comes out light-honey colored or similar...I like M1 synthetic a lot.

Have fun.

Steve
 
do an online search. I did the complete thread on replacing the oil seal. install the bearing too. use OEM parts.
 
Alrigty. Fyi, I used black toyota rtv silicon to make the gasket and its about 8k miles and no leak so far. My output shaft studs are good, so I didn't replace those. This will be the best time to replace those as well, if yours are bad.
 
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