Transfer Case Issues

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JohnVee

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 16, 2011
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Location
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Hey guys,
I posted this in 40 Tech but want the opinions of those of you who don't visit that place too much. See the original here...https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/603304-transfer-case-issues.html

Transfer Case Issues
I can't find any past threads with my exact problem so I'm asking for help here.

Background:
My truck is a 1978 (9/77) 40. I've had it 1.5 years. PO had MAF rebuild the transfer case about 8 years (~12,000 miles) ago - I have the receipt for this. It leaks about a drop of fluid from the speedo cable housing over a week of sitting still. No other fluid leaks of any kind. Not worried about this.

Problem:
I first noticed a clicking sound and vibration coming from the T-case lever. Doesn't seem to happen at low speeds. Hard to hear over engine/exhaust noise over 20MPH, but it's there. I've now noticed that the lever gets very hot. After 10 miles you won't want to touch it for more than a 2 count.

Findings:
-Upon noticing my problem, I checked fluid level. T-case was about 1/4" below the fill hole. I drained the fluid. Looked fine. Very small amount of metal filings on the magnet (sorry that I forgot to take a pic). Refilled with Mobil 1 75W-90 to the fill hole. Problem still there.
-Our club had a show with other 40's coming from up to 25 miles of highway away. I checked the T-case levers of 3 of them as soon as they arrived - all were warm, but nothing like mine.
-Yes, the lever is definitely in 2WD, not 4WD, but there is about 1/8"-1/4" of wiggle room towards 2WD if I push firmly, but it immediately returns when I let go. And the noise and vibration are still present in that full-forward position.
-It shifts smoothly in and out of 2WD-4WD Hi-4WD Low while standing still.

EDIT/UPDATE: Hubs are unlocked. Just changed transmission fluid - have pics of the drain plug magnet if you want to see them but it didn't look too bad to me (but WDIK). Fluid was still somewhat translucent. Clicking noise seems to have gone away AFTER I REMOVED THE TCASE KNOB! Put it back on and NO NOISE. WTF??? It was on very tight when I removed it.

I don't know if the problem exists in 4WD as I've been hesitant to drive it the distance to somewhere that wasn't paved. I have had to Reverse a few times in the past to get out of 4WD (not worried about that).

Whaddya think?
--john :confused:
 
ya gonna be at the hamom? may be able to check it out then...
 
We can take a look at the HAMOM, for sure.

Where is your exhaust routed? What I suspect is that the exhaust is routed closer to the tcase lever on your side due to the V8 exhaust. On a 40 with a stock driveline, or any cruiser with a 2f / 3fe for that matter, the exhaust will be solely on the driver's side, far away from the transfer case lever.

Give us a couple of pictures of the underside of your cruiser.
 
Just throwing it in the mix but isn't there a mod for 40's to combine the trans and xfer fluids? How's the transmission fluid temp? Possibly both are hot but the length of the lever is longer and not as affected?
 
We can take a look at the HAMOM, for sure.
Give us a couple of pictures of the underside of your cruiser.
I'll take some pics this afternoon. Dual exhaust. Pipes exit in front of rear wheel wells. Yeah, gets hot sitting on mufflers.
Just throwing it in the mix but isn't there a mod for 40's to combine the trans and xfer fluids? How's the transmission fluid temp? Possibly both are hot but the length of the lever is longer and not as affected?
Yes, they can be connected by a hose. I found it's usually done when the seal between tranny and t-case goes to keep fluid levels in balance. My levels stay consistent so I don't think I need to worry about that.
If the lever is that hot, how does the case feel? Front nosecone? Parking brake drum?

I would also like to see the exhaust routing as well.

It's all normal to me because I have no frame of reference. I need to replace my laser thermometer so I can shoot some temps.

**Here's the thing... The lever temp might always have been this hot, but I first noticed it when I heard the clicking noise coming from the lever area, so who knows. The noise was my main concern. I'm still driving it because it seems to function fine in both 2 & 4WD. I'll post up some pics later today. Thanks for all your advice, guys.

--john
 
pics ya'll

Damn hard to get an iphone far enough away while underneath without it up on a lift.

On a related note, does anyone know what size o-ring to get for the speed sensor cable?

tcase:exh 1.webp


RS muffler.webp
 
^^^
Top pic is passenger side, btw, just reverse image.

The clicking noise came back when I replaced the t-case lever knob today. F***!!!!!!! Went away when I removed it again. Didn't matter how far on it was threaded. I can only suppose that the added weight of the knob is enough to throw the balance of the lever off and the lower (fork?) section has just enough play to rattle audibly. There is nothing loose inside the knob - it seems to be one solid piece.

I like the exhaust idea for the heat problem. My original thought was that the friction of the clicking sound was generating the heat but removing the knob did nothing but silence the clicking. Maybe I don't have a problem after all.

--john
 
Wonder if the springs / ball bearings inside of transfer linkage are going out.

Just how would this get checked out? Never been inside one before. Is it the kind of thing you just go ahead and replace since you've made the effort to get in there?

The lever seems to hold tight in all positions.

--john
 
I'm going with the exhaust heat idea for the high temp lever. An unexpected new refrigerator purchase says I'm gonna keep driving it until something happens. No noise as long as the t-case knob is off. Angerhater tied the lever, with bungees, to the heater lines at the HAMOM but it still heats up and the noise is still there with the knob installed. Thanks to all for your input.

--john
 
well at least we didnt break it.....it aint broke, dont fix it...
 
my Tcase shifter buzzes when de accelerating, and gets quite warm while driving, but i know for a fact my rear output bearing is bad, im just saving for a rebuild kit.

try jacking up the rear axle so that you can turn and rotate the axle/driveshaft freely, and in 2wd, and lay under the 40 and try to wiggle/ turn the parking brake drum(with the parking brake off),

my tcase output bearing has a S#!T ton of play, if there is play you can "shim" the bearing retainer and add pre load to the bearing, thats what i did, but its just a temp fix and it will losen back up untill the bearing over heats, seizes and detonates the t-case.
 
So... I think half of my issue is now solved - T-Case Lever Heat. I drove over 500 miles through the mountains last weekend in bursts of 30 - 150 miles at a time. Starting from an overnight rest then driving downhill at 25-35 mph for 20+ miles had my temp gauge reading <180 and the lever stayed cool. Ascending and descending the mountain had the lever heating up and cooling down in direct proportion to the changes on the temp gauge. I'm chalking the heat up to the PS exhaust routing.

I kept the lever knob off the shaft and never heard any noise from it, but I did shake all kinds of bolts loose so it's time to "noise proof" it all again.

Things I learned on the trip:
1. I can do 70+mph uphill.
2. That equals approx 99db with the windows down; higher if I'm being passed, and the wife still wants a stereo.
3. Raising my seats 3" is too much. 1.5" might be the ticket.
4. My DS rear door upper catch rattles like a mother.
5. Ants live in the rear body and hate the rain.
6. Rain comes in the cab from the dash.
7. WNC is full of FJC's.
8. No FJC driver ever even looked at me but about 50% of Wrangler drivers gave a thumbs up.
9. Beetle Spins and Rapala minnows are still the best lures ever for catching freshwater dinner.
10. Marshmallows can be used to start a campfire in a pinch.

--john
 
Congrats on the diagnosis.

On #1 - I am somewhat jealous but I have no clue how fast I am going now with the larger tires.
On #2 - Happy wife = Happy life
On #6 - Check the cowl
On #8 - That's the case most everywhere, sadly.
 
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