Transfer Case inner shift boot

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Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Threads
5
Messages
24
Here is a option for your old transfer case inner shift boot. Boot is made by spectre performance and can be found a AutoZone, summit racing, pep boys, Advanced Auto part, and Jegs.

http://www.spectreperformance.com/index.php/catalog/interior-exterior-accessories/shift-boots.html

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This is awesome. Mine was toast, and the stock replacement was astronomically expensive!. Thanks for posting!
 
Good idea, but I had the round recessed one on my transmission shifter on my 3-speed, as the stock boot sucked, and the rubber gave out pretty fast on that product. It cracked and came loose within a year, maybe it would do better on a lessor shifted transfer handle. But for the price, it is easily replaced every couple of years.

I've been thinking of using neoprene some how to help seal that hole, but I have a 73 that never had an inner boot to start with. I tried heavy rubber with an L pattern cut in it. It worked good, helped with vibration and noise but the inner part cracked off eventually leaving a triangular hole pattern.
 
If anyone's interested I found another similar replacement. Metro RP33S. $15 from Rock Auto. My boot was completely shot with no hope for repair, and I didn't feel like spending $100 for a used one.

Needs a bit of trimming and drilling, but works pretty good. The base is rubber coated metal, but is easily bent by hand to conform to the shape of the floor

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If you notice it's turned inside out because it works better that way due to the way the pleats are constructed and the travel of the lever. It would also work pointed downward, but I was worried about it getting snagged or rubbing on the shift bracket. It still fits into the outer boot this way.
 
If anyone's interested I found another similar replacement. Metro RP33S. $15 from Rock Auto. My boot was completely shot with no hope for repair, and I didn't feel like spending $100 for a used one.

Needs a bit of trimming and drilling, but works pretty good. The base is rubber coated metal, but is easily bent by hand to conform to the shape of the floor

20141114_224529.jpg


20141114_225043.jpg


20141114_233717.jpg


If you notice it's turned inside out because it works better that way due to the way the pleats are constructed and the travel of the lever. It would also work pointed downward, but I was worried about it getting snagged or rubbing on the shift bracket. It still fits into the outer boot this way.
Is there any particular reason why you installed it upside down and not as designed? Will it not fit under the shift boot?
 
Someone had posted this a few weeks ago. I used the Autozone part and it worked perfectly. No more air coming in from there anymore. I used black silicone all around the lip and also spread around where the lever slips up through the boot hole.
 
Someone had posted this a few weeks ago. I used the Autozone part and it worked perfectly. No more air coming in from there anymore. I used black silicone all around the lip and also spread around where the lever slips up through the boot hole.
Looking at the rubber boot from Rock Auto (Metro RP33S), it looks to be a better fit than the Autozone piece. It also appears one could take a zip tie or spring clamp on the top lip to help seal the Metro RP33S onto the shifter better. :meh:
 
Another option is the FJ60 inner shift boot. They are also disco'd by Mr. T, but the average used 60 boot is in much better shape than the FJ40 part. Minor trimming and hole punching required. Unlike the chicomm part from Vatozone, it will not rot apart in a year.

Pic from Cruiserparts.net:
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Another option is the FJ60 inner shift boot. They are also disco'd by Mr. T, but the average used 60 boot is in much better shape than the FJ40 part. Minor trimming and hole punching required. Unlike the chicomm part from Vatozone, it will not rot apart in a year.

Pic from Cruiserparts.net:
3387853beffb01d9acd8fa4747393232.image.750x531.jpg

Thanks Jim, I have one on the way.......I'll circle back with photos once installed.
 
How important is the inner shift boot?
It's important. It's the one that does the work of keeping the exhaust heat & stank out of the cabin. The vinyl boot that is visible is just for appearance but is not airtight. The tunnel is higher pressure, and air will come in around the shifter(s) if there are damaged boots.
 
Is there any particular reason why you installed it upside down and not as designed? Will it not fit under the shift boot?

I tried a few different ways (up, down, inside and out), but this way seemed to work the best with the least amount of resistance. The travel of the shifter lever comes close to the edge of the tunnel cutout in 4wd, so putting it the "correct way" seemed to stretch the boot and bind on the first accordian section. Still worked no matter how it was put on, I just preferred this way. The fit on the lever is tight enough I don't need to tie it

If I had known about the 60's boot I might have gone that direction. We'll see how well this one holds up.

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