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If its not weeping from the PTO cover (L side) and not the output shaft seals, or 4WD switch on the R side, its the case gasket. The Hi/lo shifter is on the top of the case so that wouldn't weep much.
Hopefully the breather plug on top of the case actually breathes, because if it doesn't, the case will get pressurized every time it heats up.
Hopefully the breather plug on top of the case actually breathes, because if it doesn't, the case will get pressurized every time it heats up.
- Thread starter
- #3
I'm guessing I should be hoping for the PTO cover, in terms of ease to fix?
I'm having a leak like yours and I can't nail down exactly where it's coming from either. Curious to see what you find.
Remove the big skid plate under the car and keep it off until the leak location can be found.
Clean up around the 4WD switch on right side of TFR (wires coming out of it). See if it's weeping from there. In fact clean up the whole thing so you can find the leak. The 4WD switch is easy to remove and reseal the threads if it's weeping. No need to even drain the TFR.
The best stuff I found to clean the TFR is Simple Green Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner (diluted as directed). Don't use the green colored Simple Green. It will wreck the aluminium.
Clean up around the 4WD switch on right side of TFR (wires coming out of it). See if it's weeping from there. In fact clean up the whole thing so you can find the leak. The 4WD switch is easy to remove and reseal the threads if it's weeping. No need to even drain the TFR.
The best stuff I found to clean the TFR is Simple Green Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner (diluted as directed). Don't use the green colored Simple Green. It will wreck the aluminium.
- Thread starter
- #6
Great minds.... I was already down this path when you posted. After cleaning it up and driving it, it looks like it is weeping from around the big gasket where the case splits. Whoever rebuilt last got happy with the blue RTV. On a whim, I checked the torque on the case bolts...they were pretty loose...just past finger tight.
I went ahead and tightened them all down...didn't honk on it, but just what I would've done had I been assembling. I got between a half and 3/4 turn on each bolt. The same was true of the larger bolts that go though the t-case to the tranny. I might get lucky but don't know yet...
The blue RTV is a concern.....
If you've got a torque wrench, this is how tight they should be.
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- #8
Yea. I saw that in the FSM. Since it was already in place and leaking, I just did it by feel. We'll see..I'm sure that they weren't even close to that...especially the bigger ones.
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- #9
So it looks like a quick test drive indicates that the leak has stopped by tightening the case bolts. Good, right?
But, while I was under there with the shield off, I checked the transmission fluid level and about a quarter cup of fluid came rushing out. Does this automatically mean I have the bad seal/siphon issue? Here is what makes me second guess that diagnosis: the transmission filler plug was super tight and didn't look like it has been disturbed in quite some time. Is it possible that the guy who last changed the transmission fluid (not the sharpest tool in the shed btw) overfilled it somehow? It wouldn't surprise me if he filled it somewhere else (if that is even possible) or tilted the truck one way or the other to get more in.
But, while I was under there with the shield off, I checked the transmission fluid level and about a quarter cup of fluid came rushing out. Does this automatically mean I have the bad seal/siphon issue? Here is what makes me second guess that diagnosis: the transmission filler plug was super tight and didn't look like it has been disturbed in quite some time. Is it possible that the guy who last changed the transmission fluid (not the sharpest tool in the shed btw) overfilled it somehow? It wouldn't surprise me if he filled it somewhere else (if that is even possible) or tilted the truck one way or the other to get more in.
was the transfer low?
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- #11
The transfer case had a leak, which I think I fixed, so I don't know for sure if it is siphoning.
got it... it's easy enough to over fill a bit. 1/4 cup isn't much over a period of time like that. i had the "overflow hose" hooked up for a few years as preventive measure. recently took it off and am monitoring to see what is really going on. sounds like you will be doing the same.
If the transmission is filled through the normal fill hole when it's cold and oil is pumped in until it pours out, then fill plug is screwed in, (while the oil is still flowing out) a lot of oil will pour out if the transmission is hot when its checked the next time.
Hot gear oil expands and has tiny air bubbles in it and will be at a higher level in the case than cold.
But the transfer to transmission seal eventually will leak in all the cruisers. It's inevitable and only a matter of time.
Hot gear oil expands and has tiny air bubbles in it and will be at a higher level in the case than cold.
But the transfer to transmission seal eventually will leak in all the cruisers. It's inevitable and only a matter of time.
Hopefully the breather plug on top of the case actually breathes, because if it doesn't, the case will get pressurized every time it heats up.
Whatever else you do, clean this vent, and/or pry the cap off, and apply a 3/8" hose to it, and run the hose up the firewall. A happy transfer case is one that never develops pressure inside.
Whatever else you do, clean this vent, and/or pry the cap off, and apply a 3/8" hose to it, and run the hose up the firewall. A happy transfer case is one that never develops pressure inside.
Look at diagrams on SOR's site, and feel around under there. You can find it, and do most of the work by feel. I have forgotten if you can easily get to it through the shift boot plate. Might be easier to do from underneath than to gut the interior to pull the plate.
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- #17
Hah! I run my interior nude, so there is nothing in the way! Getting to the plate is pretty easy.... I'll check and let you know. I can reach it from the bottom but it is tough to know what I'm doing...
But even if the breather plug is working correctly it will allow air to escape but won't allow air to enter. So the transfer heats up, air expands & vents, but then when it cools down a vacuum is formed. If the input shaft seal is worn or the idler shaft Oring is less than stellar, the vacuum in the case will suck oil from the transmission to the transfer.
The best breather for the TFR is a breather hose.
t-case breather extension
The best breather for the TFR is a breather hose.
t-case breather extension
The best breather for the TFR is a breather hose.
I should have made this more clear - yes - agree 110%. Ditch the cap and install a hose.
I should have made this more clear - yes - agree 110%. Ditch the cap and install a hose.
