Trailing kayaks off pavement (1 Viewer)

[Dan Lee]

I bought a used LX570 - my first truck ever. One intention is to use it to kayak in more remote / secluded lakes/rivers. Lakes/rivers where access is via unpaved trails. Trails will not be too technically difficult but don't expect it to be entirely smooth and flat either. Trailer to carry kayaks is a Malone Microsport XT.

I do expect some ruts and bumps and elevation changes that probably won't pose an issue for the LX alone but may pose challenges when towing a trailer with kayaks (14'). Specifically, things like approach, breakover and departure. For example, there may be an elevation change (small but steep downward slope) of about 5' in which the kayaks may hit the back of the LX (is this ever possible?) and/or the trailer has difficulty staying on the ball, and/or the trailer bottoms out on the incline edge, and/or the kayaks scrape the incline upon departure.

Is there a way to roughly figure out if I'm going to have a problem? Take some measurements of my trailer set up (kayaks loaded). And then some rough measurements (of what?) of the incline?

 

[Dan Lee]

Second question: what do you guys use to secure trailers, both on the ball hitch and off the ball hitch? I know anything can be stolen so just want to inhibit opportunity theft. I know that for determined thieves with tools, anything can be taken. I just want to make it a little more difficult - slow them down.

 

[YMT]

If the slope is steep enough, it is possible your kayaks could hit the LX, especially approaching the slope (if the LX is on the slope and the trailer is on flat ground). Or when the trailer departs the slope. If you have a similar slope- yard, ramp, loading dock, etc, you could slowly back the trailer up the slope with a spotter who could keep an eye on the kayaks.

Your setup looks light weight enough that worse case, you could unload the kayaks, drive over, then reload.

As far as security, I use a receiver lock for the hitch. When towing, I use a heavy duty padlock for the coupler. When storing the trailer, I use the same padlock and a second ball-type hitch lock with a locking u-shaped bar. Like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-To...75035&wl11=online&wl12=15125814&wl13=&veh=sem

Like you said, if someone wants it bad enough, they'll cut through it with enough time . My locks are enough to keep someone looking for easy pickings to pass. Plus, I tend to park my trailer behind vehicles, so IF they cut the locks, they'd still need to lift the trailer by hand.

 

[ntsqd]

A security option that will also address any potential for exceeding the travel limit of a ball coupler while off pavement would be to convert to one of the various off-road couplers. This would mean converting the trailer tongue to have a socket receiver in addition to the one on the LX. Then when parking the trailer anywhere by itself the coupler can be removed from both the trailer and the LX. Makes stealing the trailer a lot harder if there is no coupler there in the first place. Putting a plug in the tongue receiver and using a locking hitch pin of some sort when parked would make it just that much more of a PITA to steal.

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks. Is there a way to figure out what angle of inclination / declination will result in grounding my trailer (either front, middle or rear). If I know information like the clearance of the trailer, length of the trailer, height of the load (and overhang length) and so on, can I calculate roughly what slope angles will be challenging?

I'm also looking into feasibility of raising the trailer (leaf spring lift kit, larger diameter wheels) but not sure it's reasonably possible. And also not sure what would be a safe height (center of gravity is still at a safe height).

Interim: when in doubt, the suggestion to unload/load trailers is probably doable.

For security, I'm looking at these devices:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KJ6KFG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4LGB64/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T9N6DLO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any experiences / thoughts?

What's an off-road coupler? Something like pintle? Or like Max Coupler?

 

[ntsqd]

Simplest would be a graph paper approach. Measure the height of the bottom of the tongue at the ball when connected to your LX. Measure the height of the tongue at the trailer's axle centerline. Measure the height of whatever the lowest point behind the trailer's tire is, and measure it's distance from the trailer axle centerline. Measure from the center of the ball to the trailer axle centerline and to the LX's rear axle centerline. Measure LX and trailer tire's rolling diameter (center of axle when loaded to ground). Put all of this at some convenient scale on graph paper.

A plumb-bob and a flat piece of ground big enough for the LX and the trailer to sit level will be handy. If paved some chalk or a grease pen (depending on if you own the pavement or not), otherwise a pointed stick to mark the centerlines with will make the length measurements easier.

Once you have this diagram you can use a straight edge to draw lines tangent to the tires to those points of concern. The angle of those lines relative to horizontal is the max angle tolerated between the trailer and ground.

If you then measure the height and forward distance of the point on the kayak that would first contact the LX from the trailer axle centerline and put it on the graph, can then draw a line from the center of the ball to that point. The angle that line makes with a vertical line is the max angle that the LX & kayak can tolerate. If that angle is greater than the angle of the line from tangent to the trailer tire to the bottom of the coupler and ball centerline, then contact probably won't happen (assumes no 'perfect storm divot' for the coupler to fall into). If that angle is less than the tire to coupler angle, then contact is assured and a longer tongue may be the remedy.

More like a Max Coupler or a Lock-n-Roll (so long as the trailer part are removed) than a pintle unless the lunette is on a slider as well, at least from a security perspective. From purely an off-pavement use perspective any of them will work.

 

[YMT]

I have done a lift on several trailers in the past; I'm not very familiar with the Malone, but I assume it is spring-under axle, as that is what the majority of manufactured trailers are. You can easily swap to spring-over; replace the U-bolts, the mounting plates may need modification. Or, you may need taller leaves.

COG could become an issue after lifting the trailer. I tend to stretch/swap axle if I'm going to lift the trailer.

Do you already have the Malone? If so, please post pics of the setup so we can post suggestions

 

[ntsqd]

It would be of particular interest to see the trailer connected to the LX.

 

[Dan Lee]

Great! Thanks all. I'll do the measurements and graphing when I'm able. I don't have the trailer yet but it's on order.

I believe the axle is under the leaf spring (per the assembly manual): http://maloneautoracks.com/pdf/MPG460XT.pdf

Here's a generic pic I found on the webz: http://ep.yimg.com/ay/orsracksdirect/malone-microsport-xt-trailer-7.png

 

[totalkayakaus]

My mate had this problem so its good to see it's already been answered!

 

[ntsqd]

Looks to me like making a longer tongue would be simple if the tongue tube dimensions are something common. Should be able to buy a longer piece of that size tube and drill the necessary holes in it. May even be able to buy it already galvanized like the OE part.

Do yourself a favor and do not use those "Scotchlock" wiring connectors shown in the pdf. Those are asking for electrical trouble. Use a butt-splice connector instead, preferably one that comes covered in adhesive lined heat shrink.

 

[LC4LIFE]

Just throw the kayaks on the roof? Works well for me.

 

[Godwin]

Just throw the kayaks on the roof? Works well for me.

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