I came across this a few weeks ago after spending too much time looking into all types of off-road trailers. Looks pretty easy to fabricate.
Trailer with 80 Series Rear 4-Link Suspension
- Thread starter canman
- Start date
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Wonder how he's making the hydraulic brakes work. I don't see a surge brake on the tongue.
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Looks like it will ride nice, x2 why would you convert the brakes and hubs in that axle.
- Thread starter
- #5
From what little I've read, it seems like the best set-up for off-road trailers would be an electric/ hydraulic system. Hydraulic for the better braking on road at speed, and electric for off-road. Also, based on a few videos I've seen, an independent suspension system would be the preferred one for off-road.
ntsqd
technerd
I don't see any advantage to independent under a trailer. The reasons why you might want independent under a car or truck don't apply since a person carrying trailer is rare. As I frequently say, ride quality better than that which doesn't break the eggs or shake up the beer is effort with no reward.
- Thread starter
- #7
Agreed that it might be overkill, but I can say that my utility trailer has shaken itself apart with it's rubber torsion suspension. When empty, it's not unusual to see it bounce a foot in the air while driving down my crappy roads. It is entirely riveted and bolted together, and just last week, I had to weld up a bunch of cracks in one of the main structural members. I have replaced numerous rivets as well that have literally disintegrated.
Here's a good video comparing different systems.
Here's a good video comparing different systems.
ntsqd
technerd
You may have to slow down the play-back, but if you watch carefully enough what you'll see is that it is not the bump that tosses the undamped, leaf sprung trailer into the air. It is the springs rebounding from the bump. This is nearly always true whether a trailer or a tow rig. If you watch a rubber torsion axle w/o dampers it too will also do this, though its much more subtle.
My conclusion is that dampers are an absolute necessity for any trailer suspension type being taken off of pavement. The video above proves only that to me, nothing more.
The extreme mounting angle of their dampers on the independent suspension are an extremely poor compromise. Its a wonder that they work as well as they apparently do. The mounting orientation of the suspension at the start of this thread is how it should have been done. I know why they did it the way that they did, but its still the wrong choice.
Years ago a friend had another friend build him a trailer frame to replace the wimpy original under a TrailBlazer tent/camp trailer. The rubber torsion suspension was re-used, but the builder added dampers to the system. That trailer has been all over the Western US and been on multiple trips into Baja and one to Copper Canyon in mainland Mexico with no issues.
Lacking any evidence to the contrary I am convinced that what has killed the few rubber torsions that have supposedly failed is heat. Adventure Trailers claims a spectacular failure & speculated that grit was the cause, but there is no evidence beyond their word - which I'm not doubting but I am doubting their conclusion. If the rubber was fully vulcanized to the steel there would be no place for grit to get into. The only way that I've ever succeeded in getting properly vulcanized rubber to let go of the metal it was bonded to has been to heat it up.
Unless the trailer above is always going to be heavily loaded those brakes are excessive for a trailer that size. Cool idea, but excessive and may be hard to get to behave correctly.
My conclusion is that dampers are an absolute necessity for any trailer suspension type being taken off of pavement. The video above proves only that to me, nothing more.
The extreme mounting angle of their dampers on the independent suspension are an extremely poor compromise. Its a wonder that they work as well as they apparently do. The mounting orientation of the suspension at the start of this thread is how it should have been done. I know why they did it the way that they did, but its still the wrong choice.
Years ago a friend had another friend build him a trailer frame to replace the wimpy original under a TrailBlazer tent/camp trailer. The rubber torsion suspension was re-used, but the builder added dampers to the system. That trailer has been all over the Western US and been on multiple trips into Baja and one to Copper Canyon in mainland Mexico with no issues.
Lacking any evidence to the contrary I am convinced that what has killed the few rubber torsions that have supposedly failed is heat. Adventure Trailers claims a spectacular failure & speculated that grit was the cause, but there is no evidence beyond their word - which I'm not doubting but I am doubting their conclusion. If the rubber was fully vulcanized to the steel there would be no place for grit to get into. The only way that I've ever succeeded in getting properly vulcanized rubber to let go of the metal it was bonded to has been to heat it up.
Unless the trailer above is always going to be heavily loaded those brakes are excessive for a trailer that size. Cool idea, but excessive and may be hard to get to behave correctly.
- Thread starter
- #9
Agree on the need for dampers for off road, but also believe there are benefits to independent suspension as well. Have a look at this video. You are correct with the brakes being excessive.
ntsqd
technerd
Watched it, what am I supposed to be seeing?
All that I see is that the poor choice of laying the dampers over so far to near horizontal has resulted in the need for two of them per tire when one, stood upright or close to it, is sufficient. If they're going to point out better fade resistance from two shocks I'm going to say don't buy such cheap shocks.
With a live axle, regardless of suspension design, one tire's bump will affect the other tire. That isn't debatable and isn't highly desired. How much effect and how important this is to a trailer is debatable. I contend that for all but the most extreme trails it is not important.
Remove passenger vehicle ride quality requirements from being the standard by which a trailer suspension is judged, they are not applicable to a trailer. I've used the phrase frequently, but beyond keeping the beer from being shaken up and the eggs from breaking you don't need a smoother riding trailer. Going past that point is effort that has no pay-off unless it is simply something that you want. In which case, go for it, it's your time and money.
All that I see is that the poor choice of laying the dampers over so far to near horizontal has resulted in the need for two of them per tire when one, stood upright or close to it, is sufficient. If they're going to point out better fade resistance from two shocks I'm going to say don't buy such cheap shocks.
With a live axle, regardless of suspension design, one tire's bump will affect the other tire. That isn't debatable and isn't highly desired. How much effect and how important this is to a trailer is debatable. I contend that for all but the most extreme trails it is not important.
Remove passenger vehicle ride quality requirements from being the standard by which a trailer suspension is judged, they are not applicable to a trailer. I've used the phrase frequently, but beyond keeping the beer from being shaken up and the eggs from breaking you don't need a smoother riding trailer. Going past that point is effort that has no pay-off unless it is simply something that you want. In which case, go for it, it's your time and money.
- Thread starter
- #11
I guess if your trailer resembles anything like this one, suspension quality becomes a factor. Understood that trailer "ride" quality doesn't need to be that of a car, but then again we all drive a Land Cruisers for a reason, and being just good enough is not one of them.
ntsqd
technerd
Aha! The too much is just enough mentality. I don't have time for much more than very nice, but not excessive. This is us "glamping" it in Joaquin Suave's front yard:
That trailer came to me independent, Dexter Torflex axle, but has had dampers added. Which is why I don't see the need for independent, experience with it compared to the leaf sprung utility trailer below. If we used the camp trailer more than we do I'd probably change it over to a 3 link (like the bottom-most pic) with brakes that have the parking brake option, but that's hard to justify for the little use that it sees.
That trailer came to me independent, Dexter Torflex axle, but has had dampers added. Which is why I don't see the need for independent, experience with it compared to the leaf sprung utility trailer below. If we used the camp trailer more than we do I'd probably change it over to a 3 link (like the bottom-most pic) with brakes that have the parking brake option, but that's hard to justify for the little use that it sees.
