Anyone put a brake controller in their 100 series. Looks like the trailer we just got is going to want a brake controller. Thought I would get some brand recommendations and find out how difficult the instal was.
Trailer Brake controller
- Thread starter NMrockeater
- Start date
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jstncse
Crawling over something
I like the proportional controllers like Prodigy or Tekonsha. They are more expensive but provide better braking in emergency maneuvers. I can't help with the install in a 100
I got the Tekonsha and like it. Had a basic unit in my Yukon and this is far better for a bit more investment. The install was pretty easy. Just threw $$ as the Slee boyz and it magically appeared installed.
Here is my installed drivers knee with my ham mic wrapped for storage.
Here is my installed drivers knee with my ham mic wrapped for storage.
- Thread starter
- #4
Ha ha Larry you crack me up! I wish Slee was closer but unfortunately with this install I think I may try it. Did the one on my jeep and it seemed straight forward. If I remeber right one wire to the hitch, one wire to the brake pedal and one to a power source.
I did the Prodigy, and have it installed in place of the ash tray. See this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ho...ke-controller-to-a-late-100-series-tlc.18675/
and this one:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/th...-can-someone-double-check-my-research.206889/
There are several threads on installing the Prodigy, just search for Prodigy in the 100's forum
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ho...ke-controller-to-a-late-100-series-tlc.18675/
and this one:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/th...-can-someone-double-check-my-research.206889/
There are several threads on installing the Prodigy, just search for Prodigy in the 100's forum
alia176
SILVER Star
I'm a huge fan of Tekonsha brand controller and I have the simple model, without any readouts. They're easy to install...usually.
mbarela
SILVER Star
I have run one also in the 80 and will be wiring a Tekonsha P3 for the popup. I havee this brake controller on the truck and you are able to switch them among vehicle once they are pre wired...
Coincidentally, I just ordered the Tekonsha P3 to replace an old unit that was in the truck when I bought it. I also bought a new 3:2 wire converter harness for the stop/signal/running lights because the one that was in my truck was being flaky. Plus it was attached to the wires on the back of my truck's tail lights with worthless ScotchLock wire taps. The new harness will plug right into an OEM connector without the need for splicing.
The controller just needs power from the battery, one wire tapped into the brake pedal (brake light switch) to know when to apply brakes and one wire to go back to the trailer connector for the actual braking power to the electric brakes.
I got the P3 from eTrailer.com for $144. It was a little pricey but not much more than a basic unit with a lot less features. I really like that it automatically adjusts/calibrates for the angle that it's installed at so I don't have to do that. I also like how you can have different pre-set proportional control for different trailers and for different tow vehicles and the P3 can be easily swapped to other vehicles. It can control up to 4 axles with brakes on each axle too.
The controller just needs power from the battery, one wire tapped into the brake pedal (brake light switch) to know when to apply brakes and one wire to go back to the trailer connector for the actual braking power to the electric brakes.
I got the P3 from eTrailer.com for $144. It was a little pricey but not much more than a basic unit with a lot less features. I really like that it automatically adjusts/calibrates for the angle that it's installed at so I don't have to do that. I also like how you can have different pre-set proportional control for different trailers and for different tow vehicles and the P3 can be easily swapped to other vehicles. It can control up to 4 axles with brakes on each axle too.
For those that have installed one of the 3:2 wire converters, did you go straight to the trailer connector or put some fuses, diodes, isolation circuits, relays or something else inline? I ordered this aftermarket harness that plugs right into the LC "Trailer Socket" harness connector at the back of the truck but it doesn't say anything about being circuit protected or isolation:
http://www.etrailer.com/p-C55365.html
You can see the OEM "Trailer Socket" here:
http://www.etrailer.com/question-41380.html
http://www.etrailer.com/question-41380.html
I think this is only on 98 and 99 vehicles and then Toyota put a different harness in after 99.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-C55365.html
You can see the OEM "Trailer Socket" here:
http://www.etrailer.com/question-41380.html
http://www.etrailer.com/question-41380.html
I think this is only on 98 and 99 vehicles and then Toyota put a different harness in after 99.
I will echo the thumbs up for the Tekonsha P3 - it looks just like the one that Larry's got in his picture. Ours is in our 2012 Tundra - the truck was pre-wired from the factory so the Tekonsha is pretty much plug-and-play. I think we bought ours on Amazon for about the same price that Marc paid.
Got this in the mail today:
- Thread starter
- #12
Marc please keep me posted on how it works, I will be doing this project soon. Interested on how the curt adaptor works.
I am planning to install some inline fuses downstream from the converter to protect the converter and my truck's wiring/fuses in case there are shorts in any trailer I connect to. I know what the max output of the converter is on the various circuits so I would choose that current rating for the fuses on each line. It's 3 Amps for the turn signal/brake circuits and 5 Amps for the tail/running lights circuit.
- Thread starter
- #14
I'm a little confused as to what the Curt conection does? Why would I use that vs just running the three wires that come with the brake control.
The Curt Converter is for the lights on the trailer (turn/brake/tail). If you already have a functioning 4-pin flat connection then you don't need the converter. I was having issues with lights on a trailer I pulled last year and decided to just put in a new converter. For 98 and 99 100-series, this converter plugs right into an OEM connector so you don't have to splice into the wires on the backs of the truck's tail light assemblies.
The brake controller is just to send power to the electric brakes on the trailer. But it doesn't do anything for the lights on the trailer.
Speaking of brake controllers, this showed up today:
The brake controller is just to send power to the electric brakes on the trailer. But it doesn't do anything for the lights on the trailer.
Speaking of brake controllers, this showed up today:
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I predict you will be very pleased with the Tekonsha P3!
alia176
SILVER Star
Corey,
Your Hundy has the means of accepting an off the shelf but dedicated trailer light adapter (like Marc's) in the cargo area. It's a plug N play and involves no cutting/splicing that a typical Uhaul type place would do and charge you mucho $$$.
I've used Hopkins trailer light adapters as a PnP solution on both 80s. See if you have a trailer light adapter already and/or a 5 pin trailer plug. If so, find out if it's a hack job or a PnP solution. If it's a hack job, then un-hack-job it and use the nice PnP adapter when you do the brake controller installation.
Don't forget that you'll need to add a "charge" wire for your popup by incorporating that into the 7pin trailer plug. This way the popup battery will get charged while you drive down the road. This is NOT part of any PnP solution, it's an extra fused wire that you'll need to run from the engine bay (just like any other 12v accessory).
Your Hundy has the means of accepting an off the shelf but dedicated trailer light adapter (like Marc's) in the cargo area. It's a plug N play and involves no cutting/splicing that a typical Uhaul type place would do and charge you mucho $$$.
I've used Hopkins trailer light adapters as a PnP solution on both 80s. See if you have a trailer light adapter already and/or a 5 pin trailer plug. If so, find out if it's a hack job or a PnP solution. If it's a hack job, then un-hack-job it and use the nice PnP adapter when you do the brake controller installation.
Don't forget that you'll need to add a "charge" wire for your popup by incorporating that into the 7pin trailer plug. This way the popup battery will get charged while you drive down the road. This is NOT part of any PnP solution, it's an extra fused wire that you'll need to run from the engine bay (just like any other 12v accessory).
- Thread starter
- #18
Great points Ali, and considering you will be helping with the instal I'm glad you know what your doing!
Plug and Play harness from Curt works extremely well. The connector even secures to a retainer clip adjacent to the truck's harness connection. I got extremely complicated with my install by adding the 3 fuses and locating them inside the rear quarter panel, inside the jack storage area. But hopefully this will prevent damage to the converter or the truck if there ever is a short with any trailer I connect to.
The P3 controller works well too. I like how it is 'smart', knowing when a trailer is connected and gives me feedback on the level of power being applied. You can customize the color, brightness and contrast of the display. You also can have up to 5 unique trailer configurations that it will store the settings for you.
The trailer I'm towing still seems to have weak brakes though and the controller can't fix that. I wish I had some time to take a wheel off and see if there is anything wrong or worn out. I can feel them apply with max power on the controller but they don't do much to slow things down. Maybe I'm expecting too much from the brakes on a single-axle popup with a GVWR of 2500 lbs. I just think that at low speed, I should be able to get them to lock up, which they don't do.
The P3 controller works well too. I like how it is 'smart', knowing when a trailer is connected and gives me feedback on the level of power being applied. You can customize the color, brightness and contrast of the display. You also can have up to 5 unique trailer configurations that it will store the settings for you.
The trailer I'm towing still seems to have weak brakes though and the controller can't fix that. I wish I had some time to take a wheel off and see if there is anything wrong or worn out. I can feel them apply with max power on the controller but they don't do much to slow things down. Maybe I'm expecting too much from the brakes on a single-axle popup with a GVWR of 2500 lbs. I just think that at low speed, I should be able to get them to lock up, which they don't do.
jstncse
Crawling over something
Isn't a "standard duty, circuit protected taillight controller" installed with circuit breakers redundant?
Brakes on a 2500lb popup are not very robust. If they will slow you down from 10 mph to a stop just applying the trailer brakes then that is about the best you can hope for. Alternately, hold the brakes and try to pull forward, it should feel like the parking brake is lightly applied. If it doesn't then there is a problem, look for a brake adjustment hole on the backing plate and try to adjust them.
Brakes on a 2500lb popup are not very robust. If they will slow you down from 10 mph to a stop just applying the trailer brakes then that is about the best you can hope for. Alternately, hold the brakes and try to pull forward, it should feel like the parking brake is lightly applied. If it doesn't then there is a problem, look for a brake adjustment hole on the backing plate and try to adjust them.