Trailer Brake controller

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Isn't a "standard duty, circuit protected taillight controller" installed with circuit breakers redundant?

Probably. I didn't use circuit breakers, just fuses, with amp ratings equal to the max output of the controller's 3 outputs. I couldn't figure out exactly what "circuit protected" meant with a web search other than in theory anything that happens with the trailer shouldn't fry the vehicle's harness or fuses. But I have little faith in a $30 converter box to protect my expensive truck. So I thought the fuses would be some extra insurance and possibly save the converter in a short circuit scenario.
 
Mostly just giving you a hard time for being so careful....

But your working on your junk and getting out to camp so I guess I shouldn't be too hard on you
 
I will be the first to admit that I have serious OCD tendencies when it comes to working on my truck (or anything for that matter) so I guess it's ok to give me grief about a little redundancy in my trailer wiring. I'll try to get some photos of the completed install soon.
 
Brake controller installed:

controller1.jpg
controller2.jpg
 
Harness installed. Notice how the aftermarket harness has an OEM connector that not only is PnP to the truck's connector but also clips into the retainer that's already holding onto another connector. That was really nice.

harness1.jpg
harness3.JPG
IMG_0672.JPG
 
Last edited:
Fuses in the jack/tool storage area:

IMG_0662.JPG
IMG_0664.JPG
IMG_0670.JPG
 
I did a little more digging on what "Circuit Protected" means. The best description I could get was from eTrailer. The signal converter will essentially act like a fuse, blowing itself rather than sending something upstream that will damage the vehicle's wiring. So I think the fuses will be beneficial as long as they burn out before damage is done to the converter.
 
Last edited:
Any suggestions on how to cover the terminals and wire ends on this breaker so I don't have a direct connection to the positive battery terminal out in the open?

breaker.JPG
 
Looks like it turned out good! Post up after you try it with the trailer.
 
I tried it with the trailer. Everything worked.
 
Marc,

I'm guessing that Corey is coming over with his parts to your driveway sometimes soon, LOL!!!!

It's interesting that the converter sites outside, underneath the cargo space in the Hundy. In the 80, they sit inside the rear Q panel. Wonder why Toyota changed things around like that or was that the path you took?
 
The original converter if you got the Toyota dealer installed version was zip-tied to the tire carrier. They failed. Then they moved them into the rear driver quarter panel. My truck had neither. The aftermarket harness was not long enough that I could get the converter into a quarter panel without soldering in extensions. I technically did that with the fuses but I would have had to solder on extensions onto both sides of the converter in order to get it tucked away into a quarter panel. I debated this exact subject for several days while I waited for stuff to show up and finally settled on putting it in that space, above the spare tire. We'll see if that was a good choice in a few years I guess.
 
Marc I will cover your drink of choice and you can come by and look and see what I'm working with, then give me some thoughts! I do think I am going to order the brake controller this weekend.
 
As another data point, the converter harness for the 80 from Hopkins DOES have extra length on both ends. According to http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.c...es/toyotalandcruiser91-98lexuslx45096-98.html the same part is used on the 100 and the 80 series. According to the PDF installation sheet, all work is done under the rear cargo mat area and inside the Q panel. Basically you're doing everything inside the vehicle, not outside: http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/doc/11143405.pdf, identical on both vehicles. IIRC, it took me about 15 min to hook my system up (sans trailer brake stuff).

So Corey, I'd be more inclined to go with the Hopkins harness along with everything else that Marc is using for his killer install. I installed my harness back in '04 and it's still going rock solid.

So, get going on that parts ordering and we'll have a "tech day" at your place or mine. Mostly drinking and socializing with a little bit "working" ;)

Also, another thing I was wondering about is whether the Hundys come with a factory optional 7 pin trailer with e-brake capability. Does anyone know? I ask because the tow package in my Runner is outstanding, to say the least. It comes with a high quality 7 pin plug with a lid that has a built in O ring. The lid even has a pin out desc for each pin for ease of field troubleshooting. Furthermore, Toyota provided a BATT CHG and a BRAKE sensing abilities into the 7 pins. I mean, you can't ask for any more PnP than this! I'm so impressed. I realize that this option is more expensive if it was offered for the 100 series but worth looking into a factory PnP option, now that I see how Toyota does things.

I found another Runner like mine in the junk yard with the tow package so I grabbed it and will be installing it into the 80. Toyota 7pin stuff is much better than the Hopkins IMO.

Sorry for rambling but I figure this info might be useful to someone! :deadhorse:
 
Also, another thing I was wondering about is whether the Hundys come with a factory optional 7 pin trailer with e-brake capability. Does anyone know?

I think they started something in the Hundy about 2000, from the little I paid attention on the forums. From what I could understand, there is a connector under the dash up front for running the Brake and 12V power to and then at the back there is a 7-pin connector. There must be a 3:2 converter somewhere in this system as well but I don't know where.

The harness I bought is specific to 98 and 99 100-series only which tells me Toyota did something different in 2000.
 
Ok I climbed under the back to see what I was working with. I cut some zip ties to pull a few things loose so I can get a look at everything but did not disconnect anything.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

1st pic: of connections for trailer
2nd pic: wires from trailer connections on bumper going under LC toward spare location.
3rd pic: control box of sorts with wires from the 4pin going in and then out the other side and plugging into the LC
 
Last edited:
More
1st pic: control box exiting wires plugged into what looks like a LC connection
2nd pic: not trailer related (I don't think) this plug is in the rear drivers side inner finder well behind the bumper area if that makes sense. Not sure what this is or why these pins are not plugged in? All of my light work on the LC just FYI.
3rd pic: two misc unplugged connectors not sure where they go? Not sure if when the factory bumper was removed "connections" we're not needed?
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
Last edited:
image.jpg
Last pic
Looks like 7 pin connector was unplugged at some point and a 4 pin flat was plugged in and added. In the pic you can see the 7 pin connection at the bottom of the pic and at the top of the pic you can see where the wires terminate at a OEM looking plug that is not plugged in.
 
Last edited:
Those last two pics are a little fishy. Not sure what any of that is supposed to go to.
 
Corey,

Can you post that picture of pins pulled out of the connector in the 100 section and see what they say? I'm curious about this as well.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom