Trail Tailor RLCA frame mount skid install advice needed

[kcjaz]

First my factory frame mounts for the RLCAs are a little banged up. I’ve had to try and pound them back into shape to get the control arms out. I’ve installed the passenger side Trail Tailor guard without any real issues. I removed the driver side control arm to get better access to bend some of the metal back into shape on the frame mount. The arm was difficult to get out. I’ve got it all back together, the holes lined up, and the main bolt through but the frame mount guard won’t easily rotate up into place. See pictures.

The frame mount by upper left frame hole in the first picture bulges out and interferes with the guard.

I first tried to get the guard up place without the through bolt. It was close but the guard was just cockeyed enough I couldn’t get the inside hole to line up enabling the bolt to go through. I did pound on it with a dead blow but to no avail. From here I see 4 options:

Option 1: just beat it into place with the bolt in and hope I can beat it, rotating clockwise, all of the way into position.

Option 2: try to pound in the “bulge” in the frame mount until the guard fits.

Option 3: take the guard off and try to widen it somehow. Not really sure how I’d do that though.

Option 4: enlarge the inside hole that won’t line up to get the bolt through. This might be the best option is it would result in the least amount of beating.

Anyone got ideas?

 

[grinchy]

I like all the options but #3.
Probably the least invasive is #4 and a large step bit.

These things were one of the most annoying armor items I installed. Each side took just short of forever drilling the front / security bolt holes. Both sides ended up with a hole in the frame weld seam.

 

[linuxgod]

option #5 - you could notch (cut) the RLCA guard at the frame. You'll give up some strength but it's pretty beefy steel and I suspect won't make a significant difference in strength since the angled part rests against the frame mount. If you do cut it, just remember to paint the bare metal...

I don't think option 2 will work, the frame is pretty strong. Option 3 might get it to fit but is also likely to end up making the rest of the guard fit strangely.

FWIW option 1 will probably work (especially in conjunction with #5) so long as the guard is bolted loosely and you have a big enough hammer (and space to swing it). I have one of these in my toolbox for projects like this one...

Amazon product ASIN B00433SC4Q

 

[FerrisBueller]

First my factory frame mounts for the RLCAs are a little banged up. I’ve had to try and pound them back into shape to get the control arms out. I’ve installed the passenger side Trail Tailor guard without any real issues. I removed the driver side control arm to get better access to bend some of the metal back into shape on the frame mount. The arm was difficult to get out. I’ve got it all back together, the holes lined up, and the main bolt through but the frame mount guard won’t easily rotate up into place. See pictures.

View attachment 3056707View attachment 3056708
The frame mount by upper left frame hole in the first picture bulges out and interferes with the guard.

I first tried to get the guard up place without the through bolt. It was close but the guard was just cockeyed enough I couldn’t get the inside hole to line up enabling the bolt to go through. I did pound on it with a dead blow but to no avail. From here I see 4 options:

Option 1: just beat it into place with the bolt in and hope I can beat it, rotating clockwise, all of the way into position.

Option 2: try to pound in the “bulge” in the frame mount until the guard fits.

Option 3: take the guard off and try to widen it somehow. Not really sure how I’d do that though.

Option 4: enlarge the inside hole that won’t line up to get the bolt through. This might be the best option is it would result in the least amount of beating.

Anyone got ideas?

The trick for this is:
After putting the new arm mount bolt through (but still very loose so the guard can flex), use a jack against the front of the guard (only on one corner), then pound other front corner with a 2lb+ hammer: the pressure from the jack and impact from the hammer moves the skid the rest of the way up where it needs to be. Then (still on jack) drill one hole and install bolt, then remove jack and do other hole + bolt.

 

[kcjaz]

The trick for this is:
After putting the new arm mount bolt through (but still very loose so the guard can flex), use a jack against the front of the guard (only on one corner), then pound other front corner with a 2lb+ hammer: the pressure from the jack and impact from the hammer moves the skid the rest of the way up where it needs to be. Then (still on jack) drill one hole and install bolt, then remove jack and do other hole + bolt.

My fear with the brut force methods is beating it close to position but still not there and getting the thing stuck where I can’t get it off. I like the jack idea.

 

[linuxgod]

If you have a crowbar that you can slip a cheater bar over, I don't think getting it stuck will be a problem. You'd be amazed at how much physics can be your friend in that kind of situation. So long as you could get the end of the crow bar under the lip of the guard and lever it you'd be able to get it loose. I have a 4' piece of black iron pipe I bought from Home Despot for just such purposes.

 

[kcjaz]

If you have a crowbar that you can slip a cheater bar over, I don't think getting it stuck will be a problem. You'd be amazed at how much physics can be your friend in that kind of situation. So long as you could get the end of the crow bar under the lip of the guard and lever it you'd be able to get it loose. I have a 4' piece of black iron pipe I bought from Home Despot for just such purposes.

Yes but with the truck on the ground the swing of cheaters is limited. I have several pieces of pipe for this purpose too. The engineer in me doesn't like "beat to fit". Need to channel my inner construction foreman.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I don't think there will be a problem being able to get the guard off. Even when I had it fully seated, it doesn't want to stay there. It will immediately pop off if you don't have either the jack or the provided bolts keeping it in place.

During install, using just the pressure of a jack was not enough for mine - it took the jack AND taps with a hammer to get the guard fully seated. It did not take very heavy blows with the hammer (with the jack in place), just the impact of a couple solid strikes made it move upward nicely.

The engineer in me doesn't like "beat to fit".

I agree, and I was slightly disappointed that these guards didn't "just fit".

 

[grinchy]

Mine still gap a little bit as the bend of the guard was before the bend in the frame, and I didn’t have a brake to rebend it (previous design). I had no heartache pounding on them with the hammer, just meant I had to repaint the face after install.

 

[kcjaz]

I don't think there will be a problem being able to get the guard off. Even when I had it fully seated, it doesn't want to stay there. It will immediately pop off if you don't have either the jack or the provided bolts keeping it in place.

During install, using just the pressure of a jack was not enough for mine - it took the jack AND taps with a hammer to get the guard fully seated. It did not take very heavy blows with the hammer (with the jack in place), just the impact of a couple solid strikes made it move upward nicely.



I agree, and I was slightly disappointed that these guards didn't "just fit".

the amount of beat to fit is big. its probably not coming through in the picks but to clear the "bulge" with the bolt in, something will have to give about 1/8" or about the thickness of the guard plate. The other side was easy. I only hit it with a hammer to make sure it was as tight as possible when I drilled the holes. I think my mounts is just banged up so much that it makes the guard fit a bit off. I needed these things like 2 years ago.

 

[kcjaz]

Mine still gap a little bit as the bend of the guard was before the bend in the frame, and I didn’t have a brake to rebend it (previous design). I had no heartache pounding on them with the hammer, just meant I had to repaint the face after install.

Maybe I'll just drive over the same ledge that bent my RLCA to begin with. That aught to set it in place pretty good.

 

[kcjaz]

I went with a combo option 1 and 4. I could not get the guard as tight against the frame mount as the other side. There is about a 1/4” gap where the holes are drilled. I’m not really happy with how this fit up but it’s just gonna be what it is.

How hard can I torque the two self tapping screws? I’ve just snugged them up with out going to crazy. They don’t look like grade 8 hardware and I’m afraid of twisting them off if I go nuts.

 

[grinchy]

I went with a combo option 1 and 4. I could not get the guard as tight against the frame mount as the other side. There is about a 1/4” gap where the holes are drilled. I’m not really happy with how this fit up but it’s just gonna be what it is.

View attachment 3057754

How hard can I torque the two self tapping screws? I’ve just snugged them up with out going to crazy. They don’t look like grade 8 hardware and I’m afraid of twisting them off if I go nuts.

Not very much. Not enough to bend the guard

 

[FerrisBueller]

How hard can I torque the two self tapping screws? I’ve just snugged them up with out going to crazy. They don’t look like grade 8 hardware and I’m afraid of twisting them off if I go nuts.

Yeah, don't go nuts. I broke one of mine without using much force.

 

[TLC2013]

Yeah, don't go nuts. I broke one of mine without using much force.

I agree, dont go hulk mode on them, I ended up stripping out the threads over torquing the screws/bolts on one side. I had to re-thread the holes in the Frame/LCA and use a slightly larger bolt. My mistake was thinking the skid would sit perfectly flush agaisnt the frame/ LCA but there is a weld which protrudes a wee bit that the guard rests against.

 

[CharlieS]

My passenger side went on easy, driver side took the jack trick @FerrisBueller recommended. I also gave it a few love taps with a 3lb hand sledge. It isn't as flush as the passenger side, but close enough.